I'm going to get off topic here for a second...

Douglas Broome wrote: "Brake fluid has deleterious effects on rubber seals."

This is a topic of some debate. My personal opinion is that brake fluid does not deteriorate rubber: after all, master cylinders, boosters, wheel cylinders etc. have tons of rubber seals in them that the fluid does not break down - at least not for a very, very long time. Also, many people have for many years used plain ol' fuel line hose for non-pressurized brake hose, say, between master cylinder and fluid reservoir and this also does not rot. It is true that rubber brake lines under pressure, say at the calipers, do go bad over time: but it is my guess that this has more to do with heat cycles than the chemical properties of the fluid itself (or they wouldn't make the hoses out of rubber in the first place).

But if there is some evidence or even theory as to brake fluid breaking down rubber, I'd certainly like to hear it! So please let us know where this statement comes from.

thanks,

Rich

1. All the small, hard vacuum lines are one of two sizes. They are color coded to help you figure out which one is which. Don't mess with the color code or fixing things get hard. If you're going to visit a pick-a-part yard, just match up the colors (white, brown, red, black, yellow, blue, green). If it's a yard where you pay for the part don't bother. It will be cheaper to order the hose directly from benz (or this place. They do sell parts).

2. Spend the 30$ on the easy-bleed and get a friend to help. One of you keeps an eye on the master cylinder and fills it while the other one sucks the fluid out of the caliper with the easy bleed. If you have the 80$, also replace the rubber hoses if they've been there for more than 5 years (they have dates stamped on them).

3. Simplest way to drain the power steering resevoir is to use a turkey baster. If it's leaking use stop leak. If it's making noise, it needs to be bled. Check the service manual. Don't have it? Get one, either the CD or paperback.

4. As for wires, If the outer protective coating is brittle (the black stuff), don't worry about it (too much). If the insulation is brittle, you have a situation to worry about (just a little though). Buy a few rolls of electrical tape. Not the cheap 1$ stuff, splurge on the 3$ kind. Home Depot sells "Super 88". It stretches nicely and holds well. And stick with black.

Words of warning: NEVER mess with these wires when the battery is connected. ALWAYS disconnect the battery when working on the wiring, especially the circuits I described above.

The wires that you don't want to be brittle are the ones that go from battery to alternator to starter to the fusebox and headlights and ignition switch. Replacing them is a pain in the butt.

You will need about 25 feet of 10 guage, multi-strand RED wire with insulation designed for harsh (hot, oily) environments. That means going to a real electrical supply store. You'll need a collection of different crimp connectors, a good crimper, and lots of elbow grease. While you're changing wires at the starter, replace all 5 of them (battery cable, 2 big reds, 1 purple, one oddball). Keep the color code as carefully as possible. It's on the schematic (which is in the service manual).

Hopefully, by now you've got the idea that changing the wiring is complex and painful to do it right.

The next best thing is to invest in some shrink wrap and use it at the ends of the wire as a bit of replacement insulation. It's not perfect, but where the insulation is frayed, it can be a life saver.

-CTH

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