I am looking for low temp solder - any ideas? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

rgnprof · #1 05-08-2009, 11:37 PM

I am trying to fix the old mechanical clock in my 250 - I resoldered the "fusible link" and it works! But, I just used regular electrical wire solder...

The case says to use 120 deg C, low temp solder - but I can't find any?

Anyone got any ideas where I can find some?

ryan

Tomguy · #2 05-08-2009, 11:45 PM

http://cgi.ebay.com/RadioShack-64-010-Low-Heat-Tape-Solder_W0QQitemZ220408161044QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item335159a314&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50

rgnprof · #3 05-08-2009, 11:53 PM

Yea, I looked at that stuff and read the specs - something like 250 def C melting point..

Arthur Dalton · #4 05-09-2009, 04:29 AM

Tix solder.........130C

rgnprof · #5 05-09-2009, 11:00 AM

Thanks Arthur. I found some online at Amazon, but I think I might try and look locally - maybe a jewelry repair shop...

ryan

Arthur Dalton · #6 05-09-2009, 12:09 PM

I was going to suggest that , but at the same time , I have used reg light wieght solder on those links for years and never had a problem.

Gotta' love those old Mechanical/Electrical clocks........

meltedpanda · #7 05-09-2009, 08:58 PM

i used regular solder the thin stuff , work and is workin fine
The major deal with low temp stuff is so that you dont fry the circuits. looks like you dodged that one, you should be fine

Arthur Dalton · #8 05-09-2009, 09:18 PM

The reason they call for a low temp solder on these clocks is b/c the solder now becomes a thermal fuse, and they want it to be a low thermal melt point for solinoid protection. Too high an Amp draw from the soinoid actually melts the solder to open the circuit.
The ususal cause of fuse failure on these clocks is the points stick closed for the solinoid spring rewind. They can be dressed with a very fine emory paper..

meltedpanda · #9 05-10-2009, 10:26 AM

you da man Art...had not heard that but sure makes sense, can they get that hot?

Arthur Dalton · #10 05-10-2009, 10:31 AM

Yes..if the points that activate the winding solinoid stick closed [ common-see previous post], then the fuse will heat up from the increased Amp draw of the solinoid.
The sol is designed to be just a momentary movement..it if it held in the activate position by sticking points, the amp draw dramatically increases, blowing the fuse/solder from temp rise due to amp/current draw increase.

strelnik · #11 05-10-2009, 10:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arthur Dalton

The reason they call for a low temp solder on these clocks is b/c the solder now becomes a thermal fuse, and they want it to be a low thermal melt point for solinoid protection. Too high an Amp draw from the soinoid actually melts the solder to open the circuit.
The ususal cause of fuse failure on these clocks is the points stick closed for the solinoid spring rewind. They can be dressed with a very fine emory paper..

Your comment is very timely. The clock in my 240D works but does not always keep time. Would you say it's beginning to get goobers on the points?

Arthur Dalton · #12 05-10-2009, 10:37 AM

I do not think that chassis uses that type clock.
Diesel forums guys would know for sure.....

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