I changed out the head on my 2.8L 6 cylinder FI and Im wondering how to do I know when the head is at TDC. I set the front lobe the same as on the head that i removed but after putting everything back together and spinning the motor, it just sounds wrong. no binding or metal on metal sounds but like a whining, with no compression pop sound. ( sorry for my ignorance)
Any Hints tips and clues would be appreciated
Aloha

When you have TDC at crank, see if the cam index mark is in line with the slot at the front of the cam on compression stroke

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A Dalton

Mr Dalton, we are talking about thrust washer and pedestal alignment mark, right?.
That is set correctly and Crank is at TDC. Im going through the valve gap now and I will try it again...if there is something else i can be missing clue me in please. I am loving this car and really want her back to life

You have to make sure you are on compression stroke.

Take the dist cap off and see if the rotor faces that little index mark on the top circumference of the dist casing .[ #1 plug] That is compression stroke.. If it is 180 out , turn the crank one more revolution. Than time the cam. At TDC , with the rotor facing that mark , the cam index should line up w/washer mark.

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A Dalton

your correct on the 180 out...next question..does the head have to come off to spin the crank to the correct location. I set mark on the cam and removed the chain. aloha and Mahalo

Might have to lift the cam so the valves don't hit on the ones that are open...but I think there is clearance ..try it.

Just get TDC when the rotor is at #1 fire position and then have the cam at index mark and put the chain back on.

The cranks has to turn twice fot every spark fire and cam rev b/c it is a 4 stroke engine ..two revs for one power stroke..not like a 2 stroker.

Do down to Davies Jones Lockers and have a beer..if it's still there

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A Dalton

she started to turn and stopped so im going to go for the lifting of the cam

If you know for sure it is 180 out , you could turn the cam 1/2 a turn [ index down] and put the chain back on. That should bring everthing back to normal when you turn the crank one more rev.
I assume you know about turning the crank in normal running direction.

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A Dalton

ok lets see if i have this correct now.
1. cam notch lined up
2. dual type timing scale on 0 degrees on numbers closest to engine
3. distributor/rotor pointing at number 1 cylinder ( i had to spin the dist. about 90 degrees to make everything line up) is that right? could it have been that far off on the previous motor?
Im in your Debt fine sir

, i had to spin the dist. about 90 degrees to make everything line up)>


Hold it right there

If you have the duel index timing pulley, you have to look at the POINTER.
If the pointer is flat and straight, then the front scale is used

If the pointer is shaped like a Triangle as you look down at it, then the scale closest to the motor is used

Check that first b/c I don't like that you had to move the dist.

Was the chain always on the same gear teeth for the dist and pump??

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A Dalton

i kept the chain tense, it is the triangular pointer at the timing scale.
so now that i have spun the Dist. it is looking like every photo i can find where the vaccum advance is pointed more towards the radiator instead of towards the drivers side headlight

OK

Just wanted to be sure ..That dist should not have had to be turned that much if the car was running fine before.

One more possible I don't want to yopu to overlook:
Many times someonme will not be able to turn the dist all the way for timing, so they will simply move the wires to the next tower one space on the cap..[ one tower away, all the way around] ... so what I would check is to bring the TDC up on compression rev, then look at the rotor to line up w/index , but now, look to see if the tower that is above that index/rotor has the plug wire going to #1 cylinder..this is just to be sure this cap/wire change has not been done by someone else, as it is common mistake

And finanly, turn the rotor by hand..it should rotate and then snap back to it original spot..that will verify the advamce springs are not broken under the dist plate...either of these would lead to you having to turn that dist.

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A Dalton

she snaps right back and lined up to #1 and putting everything back together,and spint the motor by hand one more time to make sure it all keeps lined up before trying to start her

OK
..and you verified the cap wire positions..??
Maybe you moved the dist when taking the head off..just so long as you are sure the chain was always on the crank and gears.

If yes, then crank it with starter a few times to be sure and to get some oil pressure.. ..you may even want to take a compression test while there and you should be ready to go..

Adjust the valves to .003 Int , .007 exh, COLD

Retorque the head in a few weeks

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A Dalton

well i put it all back together and spun the crank by hand everything seemed fine. I tried starting her up and i got the same whining sound and then i heard a DINK noise so i freaked out and stripped it down again. the head is off and i don't see any damage everything else looks fine.
I'll start tomorrow from ground zero. I'll take the F on this course for now