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#1
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280S AT question
hi guys!
does anyone here knows how to adjust the band clutch for 280S AT (722.102) 'box?, where's that adjuster for band clutch is located. thanks guys! |
#2
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additional info; the 280S is euro W116 with 722.102 AT 'box.
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#3
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If you are getting a "Flare" between shifts, you need to increase pump pressure, by shortening the control rod. Try a half turn at a time. The downside is the shift points will occur at a greater MPH.
Caveat: This is not the correct way to solve the problem; but it worked for me.
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1970 280S M130 engine- good runner 1971 250 M130 engine- #2 rod bearing, gone 1971 280SE (blown engine,parts car) 1977 German 280S W116-only 33 years old Last edited by MunichTaxi; 06-03-2009 at 03:09 AM. Reason: addition |
#4
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Quote:
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#5
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flaring is when the motor revs between shifts, almost like its in N for a second.
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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon 1979 280CE 225,200 miles 1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles 1976 240D 190,000 miles 1979 300TD 220,000 GONE but not forgotten 1976 300D 195,300 miles 1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg |
#6
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Quote:
If the car had 4-speed AT, then the speedo should have 4 shift points right? |
#7
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Hello,
If the car is a four speed automatic it should shift three times. You can change the shift points by lengthening or shortening the linkage rod going back to the transmission from the engine accelerator linkage. The shift marks on the speedometer are the maximum speeds in each gear.
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Joe Alexander Blacklick, Ohio 1964 220SE Rally (La Carrera Panamericana someday) 1966 Unimog 404s (Swedish Army) 1969 300SEL 6.3 (sold) 1969 280SL Pagoda 1973 280SEL 4.5 1974 450SLC FIA Rally car (standard trans) 1982 300D turbo (winter driver) 1986 560SEC 1989 Unimog FLU419 (US Army) 1991 300TE (wife) 2002 SLK 32 AMG (350 hp) |
#8
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guys,
A week ago, I noticed that the car lacked power during acceleration I ruled out carburator since the Solex 4A1's accelerator pump worked excellent, I installed new points and gapped to specs (since I don't have a dwell meter) and #236 condenser since the old condenser was a #235, that's for electronic ignition condenser! checked the timing and adjust the distributor by listening and givng some gas to detect hesitation and it was also excellent.The car is running fine but still lacked power, now, there's 1 more thing relates this problem: valve clearance! I took the cover off and got a feeler gauge to check all clearances and I found out that all valves had no clearances! all were tight! then I have to perform the valve clearance ASAP, I have to borrow the HAZET valve clearance tool(for M110, M115) and HAZET 27 mm deep socket from my dad's mechanic friend, regular 27 mm deep sockets won't get in the crank bolts b/c it's lips were thicker compared to HAZET ones. With these tools, I set intake .15 mm and exhaust .25 mm and I was able to finish the job in 30 minutes despite the hot weather outside and hot,tight and dark garage and I'm sweating a lot ! but I drink GATORADE of course. I'll try running the car tomorrow. Last edited by Takernz_30; 06-08-2009 at 10:38 AM. |
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