I'm taking a swing at removing my thermal reactor from my m110 engine today in my 75 280c with california emissions. The thermal reactor was replaced by an aftermarket cat, and man does it get hot! Anyways, the base that the cat was welded on to may need to be cut off because the bolt heads that connect the thermal reactor to the front most exhaust manifold are broken off it seems.

Basically, I would like to know if anyone has a procedure or even just some tips for going about and removing this hellish manifold. Thanks for all the help in advance

I don't have any personal experience, but you may do a search on removing thermal reactors from a Porsche 911 engine. Search google and see what comes up. I know a lot of people with the 2.7 911 motor have done such 'surgery' and they may have some tips/tricks on hot to remove them and still pass emissions.

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Nathan
'74 280C - gone to a new home for the finishing it deserves.
'64 356SC
'74 914 2.0

If you need to remove a cat, and still pass emissions, may I suggest finding a friend or family member in Amador, Calaveras, or Tuolumne counties and changing your registration address to theirs. Remove cat, never get those pesky smog notices again.

(Only way I found this out is by meeting a guy at a gas station who put a 6.0 Vortec in a '02 Jeep Wrangler.)
((I now live in Amador County))

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Brad

Current Headaches:
'72 280SE 4.5 - 120k (Rebuilt Motor, now just a weekend driver)
'06 F-250 Crew Cab 4x4 (102k in 2.25yrs)
'06 F-150 SuperCrew Lariat 4x4 (My wife's S-Class)
'85 GMC Suburban 2500 (Lifted, Built 350) The new camping rig.

Former MB Headaches:
'66 250SE 4-spd Black w/vinyl top
'67 250SE Auto British Racing Green
'71 220D Family project car, now in lucky hands of my sister and brother-in-law. Finally someone's DD again!

Sorry about the mix up, I don't plan on taking or passing any smog tests in California because my car is a 1975. I was referring to the actual removal of the manifolds.

Anyways, I Was able to get everything off EXCEPT for the last nut that is the closest to the front of the car. It is almost behind the York compressor and I am gonna wait until someone on the board can tell me whether or not I need to remove the compressor to get to this last nut.

BTW, I couldn't believe how hot the cat was, even compared to the rest of the exhaust system! I have a feeling my car is going to run significantly better after this swap to better manifolds.

ALSO, I read on a much older post that once the smog equipment is removed from these engines, you can do some simple adjustments to the timing and carburetor and really make the engine come alive. Does anyone have any more information on this in regards to the M110 engine? I remember them saying that you should adjust the timing from the stock 4ATDC to 14BTDC or something similar to that.

I would say that you are now the board's authority on removing thermal reactors, so if you can't figure a way to get a wrench or socket on the nut, then compressor has to come off. That procedure is kind of a pain, buy pretty clear on the CD, so send me an email if you need a copy.

I recall that the idle mixture needed to be rich to get the TRs hot enough to do their thing, so you might try turning them in a bit. You can try advancing the timing a little bit at a time and see if the car runs better.

I'm sure your car will run better with the new setup. But, as to "come alive," there ain't much to work with. The carb'd M110's have low compression and a very mild cam, plus the carb setup is not very efficient. Coupled with an automatic and in a heavy car, it's just not going to be much of a performer.

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Chuck Taylor
Falls Church VA
'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe