Hi

I am awaiting my service CD to come through. In the meantime could you advise which fluids (brand and type) I should be using for a 1973 W114 280 for

Engine oil
Gearbox oil
Rear diff oil
Brake fluid
Coolant

Also, does this model have any greasing points and if so what grease is required?

Thanks

Now you're opening up a can of worms! Everyone has their own opinions on oil and are most willing to argue their choice's characteristics.

For many, many years I was a Castrol 20W50 proponent but recently, due to formulation changes, I have become a Chevron Delo 400 15W40 supporter.

I've never been a big fan of the synthetics except in my racing applications but the new synthetic formulations seem to be good stuff. They are not for you if you are a frequent oil changer. Their longevity is one of their strong suits and if you change oil every three months as I do then you are throwing money away.

Gearbox oil? Actually whether you are talking automatic or manual transmission it is the same. Mercedes recommends type "F" ATF for either application. People have used the Redline synthetic lube in their manual transmissions and have claimed good results. Your call.

Don't use the synthetic diff lube in your high mileage car UNTIL you have changed the existing lube at least twice to get it clean! It WILL leak if you go straight to synthetic and the two fluids don't mix together very well. The synthetic works fine but you want to introduce it into a clean diff.

Any DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid will work. NOT synthetic, ever! The rubber compounds in your car are not designed for the synthetics.

If you are a frequent antifreeze changer (once a year) then any good antifreeze with an aluminum rating will work. The quality of water you use is the most important part of the equation. Try to use filtered water, distilled is best but you never have distilled water available when you want to top up your cooling system. Do not use water from a softened water system! Whether you use sodium or potassium to soften the water it contains high amounts of those chemicals which creates deposits on the cooling passages.

No greasing points on the original steering components but some aftermarket components do have zerks. Give the control arm bushings a good squirting with a silicone spray. Do not use a penetrating type of lube because the petroleum distillates which are their active ingredients will attack the rubber bushings.

Good summary Mike, I would however avoid synthetics, my opinion of course , oh and add Rotella 15-40 as a good dino

__________________
Ron
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Really? I thought it took Dexron III?

__________________
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Dexron III is probably the "modern" equivalent of the old "F" classification. III wasn't around when the old fluid recommendations were listed. I usually dig around to find the "F" but I have used the III.

Add me as another Rotella 15-40 user for engine oil. I have a 1975 280C. As far as automatic transmission fluid goes, my understanding is the closest thing to the original non-synthetic ATF fluid now is simply called "DEX-MERC" with no number designation after it. On the back of the bottle it says it replaces; Dexron, Dexron II, and Dexron III.