steering wheel play - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

bluebenz · #1 08-14-2009, 03:24 PM

I drive my 300D mostly on country roads at around 50 mph.

Yesterday I took the highway and set the cruise at 65 mph. Drove well but the steering wheel play (about 1-2 inches each way) was more bothersome at that speed. Car stayed straight though, and no steering wheel vibration.

I was wondering how much steering wheel play is considered normal in a W114-115?

JimFreeh · #2 08-14-2009, 04:27 PM

If your car is wandering, there are three possible culprits.

1: Toe in is incorrect, likely it is toe'd out...

2: Worn steering linkage. Tie rod ends, center link, or idler arm.

3: Slop in steering box or rag joint on steering column.

Jim

bluebenz · #3 08-14-2009, 04:52 PM

Thanks Jim!

It's not wandering and I dont have abnormal noises coming from front end, but I can move the wheel 1-2 inches in each direction before the front wheels actually change direction.

It's more annoying at highway speeds.

I know 70's cars didn't have a very precise steering like modern cars, but I was wondering if the play I have is too much, or if it's what I should expect with a 70's M-B?

I would think it's not normal but the absence abnormal noise-vibration makes me wonder.

79Mercy · #4 08-14-2009, 04:57 PM

I would check all the linkages under the car, tie rod ends, drag link, and the steering coupling. I replaced all those parts on my 1976 300D and now I have almost zero play in the wheel.

mbbuff · #5 08-14-2009, 09:27 PM

If it is still sloppy after you've done as 79Mercy says, it may be the steering box worm and sector shaft adjustment is incorrect. This can be caused by age and wear. There is an adjustment on the top of the steering box. If you're not sure how to do it, take it to a good vintage Mercedes mechanic for proper adjustment.

t walgamuth · #6 08-15-2009, 07:42 AM

Adjusting the steering box (after checking for loose components down under the car) is pretty simple and effective even if the car has 300K on it, in my experience.

It takes a 6?mm allen and a 19 mm box end. You loosten the big locking nut and then turn the allen anticlockwise until it starts binding the steering (at dead straight ahead), then back it off til the steering is free.

POS · #7 08-15-2009, 08:51 AM

Your first course of action is to adjust the box; it is effective in reducing the play. But I'm afriad that the boxes on these cars just get worn out and sloppy as they get older; a new gearbox will solve the problem totally, but the box costs $1100.

nhdoc · #8 08-15-2009, 09:33 AM

Keep in mind there is a spec for free play of 15-25mm which should be maintained or else the box will wear out quickly. Some people adjust out all of the play and this is not correct.

25mm might seem like a lot but the car will track straight even with 25mm of play if everything else is adjusted correctly.

bluebenz · #9 08-15-2009, 12:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nhdoc

Keep in mind there is a spec for free play of 15-25mm which should be maintained or else the box will wear out quickly. Some people adjust out all of the play and this is not correct.

25mm might seem like a lot but the car will track straight even with 25mm of play if everything else is adjusted correctly.

25 mm total (1 inch) would be totally acceptable to me, but I have 25 mm + in each direction which is too much. Car has 65000 documented miles.

meltedpanda · #10 08-15-2009, 02:46 PM

according to service manual, 1 inch from center so 1/2 inch each way from immaginary center line

JimFreeh · #11 08-15-2009, 09:22 PM

Even with some play in the steering box, these cars should still tend to track on the road at speed.

First thing is the toe in. MB specs the use of a spreader bar when setting the toe.

Basically, the bar puts about 90lbs (I think) of pressure on the front of the wheel and accounts for the force that tends to spread the tires apart while at speed. Rear wheel drive cars tend to toe out the front wheels as speed increases, front wheel drive cars tend to toe in as speed increases.

Most alignment shops do not know about the spreader, and consequently incorrectly set the toe.

First, check the tie rod ends, center link and idler.
Second check the toe in.
Lastly, adjust the box, being careful to not overtighten.

You can do a viz on the box by clambering under the car and watching the relationship between the steering shaft and the arm on the bottom. If the shaft turns and the arm does not, adjust the box.

These cars track beautifully when setup correctly, do not accept a car that darts all over the place!

Jim

nhdoc · #12 08-16-2009, 09:15 AM

You can easily check to see if the play is in the box or linkage. Have someone turn the wheel the 2" of play back and forth while you watch the pitman arm, if it moves along with the steering column then the play is in the steering linkage. If it does not move then it is in the box and you can try adjusting it. Adjusting it is simple...takes 10 minutes.

Also, sometimes the bolts which hold the box can come loose so make sure the box is tightly bolted to the frame! This is a common issue on both the W108/109 and W114/115 chassis.

GGR · #13 08-16-2009, 09:40 AM

An easy way to check play in the linkages is to lift one side of the car and shake the front wheel left to right. If you feel some play then you have to trace it. It can be a loose wheel bearing or a linkage. Shaking the wheel up to bottom will tell you if you have some play in the control arms. You do the same on the other side. It's better when opposite wheel is on the ground.

If no play there, then have someone move the steering wheel and check for play in the linkage between the column rack and the steering box. If no play there then check for play in the steering box itself as described by nhdoc. As he also says, check if the bolts holding the steering box are well tighten. I once bought a W114 dirt cheap because there was a "problem with the steering". I then dicovered these bolts were loose, tightened them and problem was solved. Also check for cracks on the chassis rail in the wheel arch around the bolts. It's a notorious problem on these cars and symptom is play in the steering. With both front wheels on the ground have someone turn the steering lock to lock and observe the box from the top. If it moves/rotates you may have a problem (It may move a bit due to metal flex anyway, especially if you have wide tires).

compu_85 · #14 08-16-2009, 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by POS

Your first course of action is to adjust the box; it is effective in reducing the play. But I'm afriad that the boxes on these cars just get worn out and sloppy as they get older; a new gearbox will solve the problem totally, but the box costs $1100.

I disagree. Check for other worn steering parts first, and replace as necessary. THEN adjust the box. Overtightening it won't fix worn out bushings.

-Jason

Arthur Dalton · #15 08-16-2009, 12:24 PM

[QUOTE=compu_85;2271273]I disagree. Check for other worn steering parts first, and replace as necessary. THEN adjust the box. Overtightening it won't fix worn out bushings.

Absolutely.

That chassis has a pin that goes into the S-Box for alignment jobs to center and lock the steering..You put the test bolt/pin into the box and that locks it in Center position.. You then check the SW for play..if it is still there beyound spec , then the column bushing/coupler is bad . If that tightens it up, you jack the right side of car and grab the wheel at 90 and 270 degrees and push/pull while watching where the play is ..specially the idler arm bushing...if any play , it has to be a sterring component b/c the pitman arm is locked with the pin.