Hiya

Before I ask anything I'd just like to say thanks for having all this information here, it has helped immensely.

I've had my 73 450se for about a six months so far. Even since I first purchased it, it would like to stutter or cut out while driving down the road. More recently after replacing the majority of my ignition system the car ran fine for about a week. The symptoms started again but this time worsened. At one point while slowing down to a red light the car shut off almost instantly and took about a minute to restart. I drove it back home and it hasn't been able to move since.

I have replaced plugs, wires, cap, rotor, points and coil recently. The problem I've realized is that I'm not producing any spark. I've tested for continuity and voltage across everything I can think of. I've also tested the ignition control unit to the best of my abilities (if there is specific procedure to testing this I'd love to know).

I'm able and am more than willing to post pics of anything on the car if anyone needs to see something specific.

Two last asides:

The Bosch ICU part number I have is 0027051014. This is causing a bit of confusion as the only number i can find up for sale for my car is 0027051024. So I'm not sure if the higher number is it's successor or I just have an oddball model.

I am also not sure if this is a euro model. I do have the true dual exhaust but I'm unsure about the cams etc.

Thanks in advance and have a good one!

not knowing the part numbers off the top of my head, I can tell you that if two boxes look the same, they will be interchangable. And by this, I mean same connections visually.

Used spark boxes are findable on ebay easily enough. Also a few guys around here have them.

One thing of note, namely that the box's connection to the car is both a heatsink and a current return path. Make sure the box is well connected to the car.

-CTH

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http://www.111lakeside.com/

Thanks for the info. Anyone else know if there is a procedure to test the ICU before purchasing a new unit?

Just as a follow up. It was the control until.

Took it apart and tested the resistors on it, found them bad and replaced it.

You already seem to have solved problem, but a cheap fix when the ignition "switchbox" is suspect, is to install a Pertronix points replacement. This can be used just to replace the points (my car is set this way). But with a new coil, it can also replace the MB switchbox as well. Well worth getting rid of those points!

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

Interesting. Do you have any idea of the life expectancy of that replacement? Assuming no oil is getting in there, I'd guess it would outlast points by a long shot.

it's a solid state device - should last a long time. You can always reinstall points if there is ever a failure.

Can be damaged by leaving ignition switched on when working on car. But that can be easily overcome. You would probably need the same one as I have - Ignitor 1. I bought from a company called retro rockets.

This site has several discussions on these units.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

On both the stock ICU and aftermarket replacements, don't leave your key in the "Run" position if the car isn't running. If your points are closed (50/50 chance they are, maybe more), then there will be current flowing non-stop to the ignition module - great chance of it overheating, or your ballast resistors frying.

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2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee"
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1972 280SE 4.5
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi"
1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k