Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog Tech Info Tech Forums
 
  Search our site:    
 Cart  | Project List | Order Status | Help    


Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum > Technical Information and Support > Vintage Mercedes

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 01-19-2010, 11:11 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 761
Fintail Steering Wheel - Can it be restored? How??

Hello Peaches,

My Ivory (white) steering wheel is cracked and discolored. Is there anyone who has experience here restoring the steering wheel?

1. What is the best way to fill the cracks?

2. What is the best way to restore the color?

My steering wheel had a brown vinyl cover on it for the last 15 years. The brown color from the vinyl is on the wheel (see picture).

3. What is the steering wheel made of? It looks like Ivory but it must be plastic?

Thanks in advance!
Attached Thumbnails
Fintail Steering Wheel - Can it be restored?  How??-steering-wheel-before.jpg  
__________________

1962 220Sb ~ The Emerald Bullet http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hx6tN1W48_o
1973 280Coupe ~ Goldy Locks
1987 300SDL ~ Grey Ghost
The Universe is Abundant ~ Life is GOOD!
Spare parts 1953-1973 http://s233.photobucket.com/albums/ee24/brocpoet/
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 01-19-2010, 12:25 PM
thebenzbar's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: So. Flo.
Posts: 685
This is from Jim, who restored one off a 190SL... read the entire thread here: 190SL Group

"If you take the center of the horn ring to the paint store, this is the only part you have to match, when you are sanding it down just use 0000 steel wool. Much easier to get in the groves & gives a good surface for the paint to adhere. Do the paint in several light coats. The epoxy paint drys to a very hard finish after a couple days. Find a old broom handle to fit in the center hole so you can turn it with out touching the paint, build it up with masking tape to get a tight fit. Clean it well to get rid of oils from 50 years of hands before painting."
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 01-19-2010, 05:17 PM
Super Moderator
 
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Falls Church, VA
Posts: 5,314
There is an excellent how-to in the September 2009 issue of Pagoda World. You should be able to request a copy from the website,

http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php

If this doesn't work, email me and I will scan it for you.
__________________
Chuck Taylor
Falls Church VA
'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 01-19-2010, 09:39 PM
fritzintn's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 17
The folks behind POR15 (awesome stuff) make a kit for repairing steering wheels. I've seen it written up in HotRod a number of times and seen a recently finished wheel in person.

I picked up a used wheel on ebay and plan to give it a go next week and report back. The only perplexing bit is what paint code to repaint it.... i kinda dig the worn ivory patina....

Edit - Good call about using the center ring as a paint code...
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 01-19-2010, 10:02 PM
twinockchef's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Savoy, Texas
Posts: 312
I don't see the need to buy a 'kit'. All you need is epoxy, sand paper, a good primer and paint.
The process is just, a readers digest version:
*clean the wheel of all dirt, grime and grease.
*dig out any holes or cracks, a deep hole seems to be better to give the epoxy more area to adhere to.
* clean again and sand all of the edges within the holes
* apply the epoxy, make sure it is really in there, then let dry
* sand, by hand, down high spots with 220 grit
* prep the wheel for primer
* after priming sand with 400 grit
* paint then apply a finish coat

I had first seen Stacy David on Gearz restore a steering wheel, its condition being of the sort which I would have thrown it a away, and made it look perfect.
The Pagoda DIY followed the same process and ended up with the same result.
The most difficult task seems to be the sanding process. I would think it easy to over sand areas and damage the grooves and finger bumps.
There was also an DIY article, in Pagoda World, on restoring the horn pad. I looked at my horn pad, 280sel, and it is different from a 230-250sl. The result was excellent.

Go to http://www.gearztv.com/showdetails.php?episode=6
this is the episode about the steering wheel repair.
Good luck
__________________
Britton McIntyre

68 280 SE coupe 'Hairball'
70 280 SL
71 280 SEL - RIP May 2010
08 R320 CDI
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 01-19-2010, 10:45 PM
cgoodwin's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Seattle, Wa.
Posts: 119
I have used the POR-15 kit with success http://www.por15.com/STEERING-WHEEL-REPAIR-KIT/productinfo/SWRK/ although I am not a fan of painting steering wheels, it never lasts long, POR-15 does make a bullet proof paint though, at the time I did my fin steering wheel I was not aware of this and used marine Sterling epoxy paint. Another option would be to use an epoxy like System Three and add "Micro bubbles", it will be easy to sand and quite hard, white micro spheres and reddish epoxy make pink but you can get clear epoxy. It will likely not match the creme color you have so a good epoxy paint is really the only option.
__________________
******************************
1988 560 SEL, 17" monoblocks, H&R / Bielstiens.
1972 Porsche 911 Targa RSR rep.
1968 BMW R60/2
1972 Norton "Yellow peril" Dunstall 750 Commando
1981 BMW R80GS-PD, dual plugs, 1000cc jugs, 10 gal "Gaston" tank.
1982 BMW R80GS-PD, duplicate of above.
1992 Ducati 900SS
1988 Neoplan/Mercedes 40' Bus
1966 Land Rover 88" 30k orig.
1973 220D Diesel/Vegetable Oil Hybrid
1967 200D restored, auto.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 01-20-2010, 03:57 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Finland
Posts: 74
I used certain epoxy to fill the cracks -> then sandpaped like hell -> then the Motip plastic primer -> then special Acrylic lacquer.

The pralltopf I parted to pieces and a specialist did the new leatherette on it. Putting it together was extremely difficult and nasty because the thickness on pralltopf grew a bit. Warming up helped.

Result You see here:
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 01-20-2010, 04:29 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 761
Very Nice results! I like it.
__________________

1962 220Sb ~ The Emerald Bullet http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hx6tN1W48_o
1973 280Coupe ~ Goldy Locks
1987 300SDL ~ Grey Ghost
The Universe is Abundant ~ Life is GOOD!
Spare parts 1953-1973 http://s233.photobucket.com/albums/ee24/brocpoet/
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 01-20-2010, 06:03 PM
thebenzbar's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: So. Flo.
Posts: 685
Good job & result!
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 01-20-2010, 09:42 PM
cgoodwin's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Seattle, Wa.
Posts: 119
Beautiful
__________________
******************************
1988 560 SEL, 17" monoblocks, H&R / Bielstiens.
1972 Porsche 911 Targa RSR rep.
1968 BMW R60/2
1972 Norton "Yellow peril" Dunstall 750 Commando
1981 BMW R80GS-PD, dual plugs, 1000cc jugs, 10 gal "Gaston" tank.
1982 BMW R80GS-PD, duplicate of above.
1992 Ducati 900SS
1988 Neoplan/Mercedes 40' Bus
1966 Land Rover 88" 30k orig.
1973 220D Diesel/Vegetable Oil Hybrid
1967 200D restored, auto.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 01-20-2010, 09:51 PM
DeliveryValve's Avatar
Chairman of my Benz
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Central California
Posts: 3,292
Quote:
Originally Posted by Petteri K View Post
....
Wow that is nice! It's like a work of art!
There is a Fintail at my local yard. I think I'll grab that steering wheel and restore it to hang on my office wall.




.
__________________
1983 300D California 170K
- GreaseCar Veg System


Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 01-20-2010, 10:01 PM
Nobody knows nothin'
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: The Peoples' Democratic Socialist Collective of Michigan
Posts: 1,891
Quote:
Originally Posted by Petteri K View Post
I used certain epoxy to fill the cracks -> then sandpaped like hell -> then the Motip plastic primer -> then special Acrylic lacquer.

The pralltopf I parted to pieces and a specialist did the new leatherette on it. Putting it together was extremely difficult and nasty because the thickness on pralltopf grew a bit. Warming up helped.

Result You see here:
Two questions:
1. How much did you warm the steering wheel and how did you do it?

2. I had been told that a softening compound was applied to the plastic just before painting, but I have not seen mention of that anywhere.
__________________
Strelnik
Invest in America: Buy a Congressman!

1950 170SD
1951 Citroen 11BN
1953 Citroen 11BNF limo
1953 220a project
1959 180D
1960 190D
1960 Borgward Isabella TS 2dr
1983 240D daily driver
1983 380SL
1990 350SDL daily driver alt
3 x Citroen DS21M, down from 5
3 x Citroen 2CV, down from 6
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 01-21-2010, 05:38 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Finland
Posts: 74
To Strelnik (and the others as well)

Forgot to mention that I removed from the steering wheel the grease and dirt with thinner first. Then I applied colorless epoxy filler to cracks about 5 times, the filler somehow just disappears to the cracks.

After sanding it carefully with very fine sanding paper I did not use any softening compound with the painting, just did as the lacquer-manufacturer advised. The plastic primer is also used with bumbpers etc., so I consider it is essential - think what paint on the plastic bumbers on cars must take; freezing winter and very hot sunshine..
So I used Motip`s Plastic Primer with thin layers.
http://www.motip.com/?page=23&id=646

Then the lacquer; the acryl lacquer is designed to work with plastic & metal and thereŽs a wide range of colors to choose. You can also choose either to use the spray-bottle or the paint-pistol.
http://www.motip.com/?page=23&id=532

Time shows how well and long it will last on the steering wheel. It has stayed on the bumbers of my everyday S124 for three years now.

Please note that the coat of paint does not hide small scratches and mistakes, but makes them even more visible.

And finally the warming. Der Pralltopf is the german word for the vinyl leatherette covered thing in the middle, I do not know the english word. The vinyl must get a bit soft and more flexible, so I warmed The Thing with my Makita Blower to get the emblem in the center and the metal frame on their places. But be very careful not to warm it too much to either melt or burn it. Or Your fingers.

If someone feels himself unsure google the "Adsit" and YouŽll find new old steering wheels. But the price..

Best regards,

petteri.kivimaki at gmail.com
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 01-21-2010, 09:37 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 761
Der Pralltopf = Horn Pad

Thank you very much for sharing your experience with the project! Sounds like many of us are ready to restore steering wheels...
__________________

1962 220Sb ~ The Emerald Bullet http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hx6tN1W48_o
1973 280Coupe ~ Goldy Locks
1987 300SDL ~ Grey Ghost
The Universe is Abundant ~ Life is GOOD!
Spare parts 1953-1973 http://s233.photobucket.com/albums/ee24/brocpoet/
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 01-21-2010, 10:34 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Pompano Beach, FL
Posts: 291
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffreyNMemphis View Post
Der Pralltopf = Horn Pad

Thank you very much for sharing your experience with the project! Sounds like many of us are ready to restore steering wheels...

right behind you on that...im going to go shopping for paint this weekend..unfortunatly i still need a chrome ring for the pad mine is gone
__________________
1962 220S
1966 200 Diesel
1981 300TD Wagon
1984 500SL
1989 560SEC Euro
Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2010, 10:34 AM
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:48 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2011 Pelican Parts - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page