What is this worth - 73 280 SEL 4.5 - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Equitas · #31 01-26-2010, 01:52 PM

J-in-M: I absolutely agree with you!

meltedpanda · #32 01-26-2010, 08:16 PM

I was speaking of the second one mentioned in his post

http://boston.craigslist.org/bmw/cto/1565513325.html

thebenzbar · #33 01-26-2010, 09:04 PM

That (which is this) is a nice 108... just a few minor issues that can be fixed while enjoying it.

JiveTurkey · #34 01-26-2010, 09:49 PM

See, I'd rather buy that green '72 above because it looks honest, it's not too clean, and it's not beat to hell. Shiny Shiny engine bays scare me.

Equitas · #35 01-26-2010, 11:49 PM

It's sure nice. But the interior needs some work. -- front seat is in poor shape. I guess I can just cover it. Hopefully it still has oomph in it.

JeffreyNMemphis · #36 01-27-2010, 12:30 AM

I like the green color of the car in Boston. Yes, the seats can be recovered which costs about $2k (retail) which should include the seat padding.

There is not a lot of information about either car's mechanical condition, which is where the truly high dollar issues could be possible. Have the fuel lines and injector seals been changed? Does it have fresh belts and hoses? When were the spark plugs and wires, rotor and distributor changed? Has the distributor been cleaned and lubricated? Has the rear differential fluid ever been changed? Has the transmission been serviced? How many miles are on the car? Does it leak oil? Does it smoke?

These questions apply to any 40-year-old car, not just the green one. The $36,000.00 car on Ebay might need $8,000.00 (retail) worth of maintenance. If you have to pay $120.00 per hour for mechanical help, plus markups on every part you buy; a tune-up can easily cost $,$$$.00

Pretty pictures don't answer these questions...

Tony H · #37 01-27-2010, 11:27 PM

I couldn't agree more. Unless there are VERY specific maintenance records there is no telling what has been done. Even a "low milage car" can require $$$ in maint to bring it into proper condition. There are dozens of rubber items that need to be replaced at regular intervals to keep the car driving the way is was intended.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JeffreyNMemphis

I like the green color of the car in Boston. Yes, the seats can be recovered which costs about $2k (retail) which should include the seat padding.

There is not a lot of information about either car's mechanical condition, which is where the truly high dollar issues could be possible. Have the fuel lines and injector seals been changed? Does it have fresh belts and hoses? When were the spark plugs and wires, rotor and distributor changed? Has the distributor been cleaned and lubricated? Has the rear differential fluid ever been changed? Has the transmission been serviced? How many miles are on the car? Does it leak oil? Does it smoke?

These questions apply to any 40-year-old car, not just the green one. The $36,000.00 car on Ebay might need $8,000.00 (retail) worth of maintenance. If you have to pay $120.00 per hour for mechanical help, plus markups on every part you buy; a tune-up can easily cost $,$$$.00

Pretty pictures don't answer these questions...

Tomguy · #38 01-28-2010, 07:46 AM

IMHO, I think the seller should have taken the bid of $16,401.99 and considered himself lucky & run with it. People who want to buy vintage MBs & have money go for the 6.3 if they want a sedan usually - that's 6.3 money for a 4.5.

JeffreyNMemphis · #39 01-28-2010, 09:45 AM

Tom brings up a good point...

Another factor to consider is cost of ownership. What is the five year cost to any Classic car? The purchase price plus maintenance, plus repairs, plus restoration (if needed) minus future value.

The 6.3 is desirable for the consumer with very deep pockets or a very sophisticated mechanical ability. What does it cost to maintain a 6.3? The Grand Mercedes 600 is a $100,000 car now which shares the same engine. If you buy a 600 series for $30k, you might end up spending $70k over the next five years to restore it. Is it better to just buy the $100k car up front or go $30k plus $70k? My belief from experience is that buying the better car up front is usually less expensive and more enjoyable. I have done it both ways over the years.

Most of us here on the forum have opted to buy under-valued cars and pour sweat-equity into them instead of cash up front. That is one model of ownership that appeals to me, but does not appeal everyone. Without the desire to get dirty and greasy, bloody some knuckles, LOTS of spare time, space to work on your car, tools to do projects, technical literature and access to knowledgeable help, buying a solid car that has been sorted out already would be the way to go.

That car on Ebay is probably worth $25k. I would want to know that every rubber bit is fresh and solid because 40 year old rubber in mechanical parts disintegrate. If the car has not had new tie rods yet, it will need them if you drive the car (one example). The other concern I would have is this: If the car only has 22,000 miles, did it sit without being driven for any length of time? Is it sitting now? Will the car start springing leaks from every gasket when I do start driving it?

These Classic cars do better when driven regularly. A well maintained car with 150,000 miles that has been driven 4,000 miles per year since day one might be less problematic mechanically than a 20,000-mile-car that sat for 30 years. If the car is not in top operating condition with everything working including the clock, I would not be satisfied. Which means I would be repairing or paying someone to repair. If something leaks, I have a job that needs to be done and it costs something. If the car does not leak, then it has the added value comparable to the cost of repairing the leak in a similar car.

I bought my Porsche for $12k, after a pre-purchase inspection revealed that it needed $6,500 worth of work. The previous owner had been asking $18,500 and we agreed on the price in the light and knowledge of the car's true condition. Or what I believed was the car's true condition. The car had been sitting for the last six of his eight year ownership and when I started driving it daily leaks appeared that only showed up as sweat during the inspection. After spending $18,500 for the car plus brakes, tires, wheel alignment, oil change, tuneup and air conditioning; the engine had to be pulled out to replace the worn valve guides and install new gaskets. Rebuilding a Porsche engine can cost $10,000 so I was having a cow... I wish I had bitten down and bought a pristine $25,000 car to start with. But there would be no guarantees there either!

Equitas · #40 01-28-2010, 11:35 AM

My present daily driver is a 2004 Toyota Matrix, which was put into service in May 2004, and which we got in Jan 2005.

In the 5 years that I have owned the car, we have put 112000 km on the car. We have spent $5,100 on repairs and maintenance (everything except gas). This translates to $2.83 per day or $0.04 per kilometer.

Including the lease costs for the period, and the buyout cost at the end and including the repairs and maintenance we have spent $30,000. This translates to $16,83 per day or $0.23 per kilometer.

Out of curiosity.....does anyone else have figures for their cars? especially the older MBs?

JeffreyNMemphis · #41 01-28-2010, 01:14 PM

I have actually done a similar analysis, having owned a brand new Honda Odyssey minivan with payments of $682.00 per month. My total spend on the 1973 Mercedes 280SEL has been about $4,000.00. $1,000.00 of which will be regular annual expected future maintenance cost for things like oil changes, fluid flush, brake fluid change, transmission fluid change. The other $3,000 spent could be spread over 5 years for items like tires, seat recover, new rubber parts and services like wheel alignment.

So, perhaps 50 percent of the $3,000 is still contained in the value of the car. I expect to spend $1,000 per year on maintaining the car (perhaps less). I do not pay interest since I paid cash. Perhaps the opportunity cost could be calculated by figuring how much the money could have earned if not tied up in the Mercedes...

My current occupation is selling brand new Volkswagens as a sales consultant. I have never sold cars before and now I have 6 months experience. Frequently, people come to buy Volkswagens pending a trade to get out from a cost of ownership they were not prepared for. Last week I had a lady test driving a Jetta who needed to trade an 08 BMW X5 because the payment of $850 per month was too high. She did not realize that the true cost of ownership for 18 months in the car was closer to $1500 per month and she owes the difference (upside down). She needs to come up with $10,000 cash to break even on owning the BMW and stop the pain and hemoraging finance.

I am keenly aware of the financial advantages of driving a Classic. Please keep this a secret. If people found out that a 1971 Mercedes was much less expensive car to own and drive than a 1998 Chevy Cavalier, this thing of ours would be ruined.

bwostosh · #42 01-28-2010, 04:26 PM

Just a quick reply, a to confirm the true cost of a classic (keep it secret, nah)
1972 280SE 4.5 W108 averaged $25-30 per month over 8 years ownership, this included transmission ohaul.everything.. (except fuel)
Registration, no smog costs, cheapest insurance etc. professional serviced oil and lube.

Some people never figure the cost out until they have spent many $$$

W108 Mercedes = the cheapest car on the road
Check it out 1,2,3,4, and 500,000 mile cars
Of course I do maintenance myself

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode