There is the possibility that the overheating when the blown gasket occurred could have damaged the head internally in the intake area.
mak

had it tested..thanks.
I do have one other question; when i replaced the head gasket i lined up the the cam gear notch and tdc but i heard there was one other mark or gear that needed to be lined up? I marked the chain and gear so that they were in the same spot as well could something have been missed or moved?
im gonna look at it today and go through the valves again and reset the timing once again before i tear it apart

Nah, Dont tear it apart again --Yet!

--The timing would affect all cylinders equally so I dont think its too far out. Check it by all means, and re-set valve clearances carefully.

Do try my ideas of a few posts ago, It could well save you a Huge load of work, and the ideas are easy and cheap to try--just a little time, thats all!

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Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member

W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K,
-Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog.

W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow,
-Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year....

another "tool" in my aresenal, thanks!

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Ron
2015 Porsche Cayman - Elizabeth
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99 E320 THE Queen Mary - SOLD
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Well I havent touched the car except to wash her off once a week.
I thought i lost the key but turns out it was in the ignition....(dont say it)
ok I got it started, did the timing.
Runs very rough
no Idle
compression test was as follows
#1 @35...with a teaspoon of oil up to 110
#2 145
#3 135
#4 220
#5 190
#6 120
my question is : do i have to pull the Engine to fix this?

yes, problem must be tracked down, too much compression variation.

Back to basics...

1. hand turning to the "0" mark on the crank gets you were at the cam tower?. The cam lobes on #1 should be pointing "up" (more like at 2 & 10 on the clock dial). You might have to go around on the crank a 2nd time to get the cam mark up.

2. Cold clearance on all the valve lifters is to spec?

3. All cam lobes are good? Ditto the mating surface on the rockers?

4. If it's running with the radiator cap off and the fluid topped off to the neck, do you see air bubles?

5. Still have excessive blow by? With the oil fill cap off, are you seeing white/brown sludge on the inside of the cap?

6. Do you have more oil now than when you started? Does it smell like it's got gasoline in it?

7. Did you time the motor at 4,500 rpm, vacuum disconnected and plugged at the distributor?

8. Did you check the dwell at idle and 3,000 rpm and note the difference?

9. When you installed the thermostat, was the check ball (it should have one) "up" (highest point) in the housing?

Thx -CTH

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can i remove the # 1 piston from underneath without dismantling the whole engine? i mean leaving the engine in the car?

ok i went after it from below...and learned more. sorry for the dumb question before. I said i was green.

Yes,Number 1 is easy to remove from the engine in car. But the head comes off First. Push the piston up from underneath. Number1 will fail when "cooked" everytime. If it has got broken rings you can buy them from Deves. (google is your friend). if it is a broken piston with holes in the wrong places you could pick up a good used one from others here. Put some pics up to show us where you are at on the engine .

I m in the process of tearing a 71 6 cylinder out of a car ( m130)

I m not sure how to measure / qualify if the pistons are good - but I'll have a couple for you to check

let ,me know