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#1
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1973 280 se 4.5, CAR WILL NOT START
HELLO... YES MY CAR HAS A BRAND NEW BATTERY, IT WAS RUNNING FINE, IT SAT FOR A COUPLE OF WEEKS AND NOW IT JUST WILL TURN OVER, IT WON'T START. WHAT COULD IT BE, ANY HELP GREATLY APPRECIATED. RANDY
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#2
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Verify spark and fuel delivery.
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#3
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Is the smaller wire connected to the battery making contact?
Does the fuel pump make noise (buzz) for a second when you turn on the ignition key while someone listens down by the fuel tank, driver's side? Or crack a fuel hose open a little and see it is holding fuel pressure (key off), be careful with sparks. Have a rag handy. Check your fuses, if corroded a little, move them back and forth in their holders. Pull the coil wire from the distributor (center wire) hold the copper end close to a ground while some one cranks the motor. Should have a nice hot spark. Or to be sure you could hold it and feel for a spark.
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"Our Lady of Blessed Acceleration... don't Fail Us Now" |
#4
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I agree with NUTZ,....[B]Verify spark and fuel delivery[/B]. Especially spark.
If you have spark, it could be "weak" I've seen it too many times. You might need one of these,......have fun 3-5 Big Bills new. ( I have a NOS one if you need it) But before you go this far,..confirm the car hasn't jumped time,.. To solve all your problems at once,...invest in a $ 5.99 can of starting fluid,...spray starting fluid down the throttle body , if it starts, your issue is fuel related, if it doesnt,...you'll have to check timing and spark. Timing will require you taking the valve covers off, another test is make sure your points are not burnt or closed. Trigger points is a whole new subject. |
#5
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I'd check for corrosion on the points first. From what I understand, WA is a damp state. If your points were open during sitting, it's possible they corroded. Especially if someone took sandpaper to them (A HUGE no-no). Clean them off with an index card. You need to pop off the distributor cap (two spring clips) to get to them. Pull the rotor straight up to remove it. You may then have a plastic guard below the rotor, pull it off (most cars are missing this). You will be able to see the points below. They look like this:
Clean the two round "Dots" by moving an index/business card between them. If they were rusty and it now starts, I'd suggest replacing them. URO = $5.21: http://www.allpartsexpress.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=1973-MERCEDES--BENZ---80sel--/--V8--45--0cc--4.5l--Gas--Fi-Electrical&yearid=1973%40%401973&makeid=MERCEDES+BENZ%40%40MERCEDES+BENZ%40%40X&engineid=1193475%40%40280SEL++%2F+V8-4520cc+4.5L+GAS+FI%40%40280SEL&catid=Electrical%40%40Electrical&subcatid=Ignition+Points@@Ignition+Points&mode=PA I don't know if Bosch still makes these, you might be able to find Bosch NOS @ a local store but expect to pay over $20...
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Current: 2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee" 2018 Durango R/T Previous: 1972 280SE 4.5 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi" 1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k |
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