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  #16  
Old 03-15-2010, 01:05 PM
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Wolf, Mac's Radiator recored the radiator and installed the thermostat bung. Everything, including the adjustable thermostat, cost about $450. This was last spring. They had to special order the core and it took about 2 weeks for them get it and finish the job. They used the stock top and bottom tanks. They told me the core was the same thickness, with more tubes closer together, so the cooling capacity should be better than stock. I think they said the core had to come from some place in California. Don't know if this will help you or not.

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  #17  
Old 03-15-2010, 07:10 PM
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Zen And The Art Of Diesel
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbbuff View Post
Wolf, Mac's Radiator recored the radiator and installed the thermostat bung. Everything, including the adjustable thermostat, cost about $450. This was last spring. They had to special order the core and it took about 2 weeks for them get it and finish the job. They used the stock top and bottom tanks. They told me the core was the same thickness, with more tubes closer together, so the cooling capacity should be better than stock. I think they said the core had to come from some place in California. Don't know if this will help you or not.
Very good info, I'll log that information away. Thanks..
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  #18  
Old 03-20-2010, 03:24 AM
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The Work Continues!

I actually got a bit more done last Sunday, so I am updating...

Got some questions too...


I removed the pulley that helps to route the A/C compressor belt, won't be needing that for now...




Fan and clutch removed...


Does the harmonic balancer have to be removed to replace the water pump?!


Water pump pulley removed...


Years of accumulated gunk!


I see no other way to get to that fifth bolt for the water pump other than removing the harmonic balancer... Does it have to come off? Does the engine oil have to be drained for this?





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2006 BMW M5 "Heidi" @ 109,000 miles
2005 MBZ C55 AMG "Lorelai" @ 165,000 miles
1991 MBZ 300E "Benzachino II" @ 165,000 miles
1990 MBZ 500SL "Shoshanna" @ 118,000 miles

(On the hunt for a good used M103 engine as of 6/10/23, PM me if you have one to sell!)
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  #19  
Old 03-20-2010, 08:19 AM
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Yup, on that version the dampener has to be removed. Look up and post the engine number of the engine. The only time I've ever seen that dampener style is on a 280S M110.
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  #20  
Old 03-20-2010, 08:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Takernz_30 View Post
hello I'm asking, how did your friend Don heat the SOLEX? the carb in my 280S is also warp. Also the secondary linkage on top the carb is also free or not binding?
Don used his oven in the kitchen (benefits of life after divorce).

He set the temperature at 300 degrees and bolted down the carb where he wanted it to move, stretch, expand or contract. After a few cycles of heating and cooling, making adjustments it was straight again. He used vise-grips on one cycle to close a gap.

Don is a genius. He boiled the entire carburetor and went through every port until the whole thing was clean and looked brand new. Then he installed the carburetor kit. He did miss the jet that controls the idle circuit and it took hours to find that tiny troublemaker. He is still fighting a flat spot that may be caused by the dashpot. The car idles smooth and perfect. The flat spot is comes when we go from zero to full throttle.

I have been keeping quiet since we are not done yet. I didn't want to high-jack your thread.
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  #21  
Old 03-20-2010, 09:38 AM
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Haven't I seen a balancer on the M110 somewhere that has a notch in it for access to that water pump bolt? I might be imagining things.
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  #22  
Old 03-20-2010, 01:57 PM
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Is the flat spot coming off idle, or is it at about half throttle? If it's off idle it is probably the accelerator pump adjustment. If it's not off idle, it is probably the second stage (secondary) air valve adjustment. There is a spring adjustment that tensions the air valves. It's locked in place by a small allen screw. I've got mine set at about 2 1/2 turns to get rid of the flat spot.

On the balancer, I didn't have to remove it on my '73 280C when I did the water pump.
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  #23  
Old 03-20-2010, 04:36 PM
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The weather here in TX is miserable right now, that nasty cold wind! I tried to see what size the hex bolts were for the harmonic balancer, I have decided to remove it anyways since I need to clean behind it as well. Anybody remember what size hex drive I need for them? My tool kit is seriously lacking in this department, I also need to pick up a breaker bar... Home Depot has some money coming from me tomorrow.
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2006 BMW M5 "Heidi" @ 109,000 miles
2005 MBZ C55 AMG "Lorelai" @ 165,000 miles
1991 MBZ 300E "Benzachino II" @ 165,000 miles
1990 MBZ 500SL "Shoshanna" @ 118,000 miles

(On the hunt for a good used M103 engine as of 6/10/23, PM me if you have one to sell!)
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  #24  
Old 03-21-2010, 07:43 PM
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The weather was bad yesterday. Found some snow on a few cars this morning, March 21st and there is snow in Texas! This is very rare!
In the afternoon the temperature got up to about 50 and I set off to get some tools and wood for the car and a new desk respectively.

So I got to Home Depot and Autozone today. At Home Depot, I picked up a Metric hex key set and a breaker bar. I found that the harmonic balancer bolts are 6mm (6 of them) and tried to remove them with the hex keys. They are very tight and stuck in their threads.

I went to Autozone to get a 6mm hex socket to use with the breaker bar, also picked up a can of Liquid Wrench penetrating oil. I sprayed down the 6 hex screws and let them sit for 10 minutes. I tried the hex socket/ breaker bar combo on one of the harmonic balancer screws and it came loose and started to turn. I went on to another one adjacent to it, but this time when I tried, the ENTIRE CRANKSHAFT MOVED! I had no idea it was so easy to turn an engine! The bad news it moved counter clockwise... is that bad? It moved about 1/8 of a turn CCW... What should I do to hold the crank in place? Thank You!
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2006 BMW M5 "Heidi" @ 109,000 miles
2005 MBZ C55 AMG "Lorelai" @ 165,000 miles
1991 MBZ 300E "Benzachino II" @ 165,000 miles
1990 MBZ 500SL "Shoshanna" @ 118,000 miles

(On the hunt for a good used M103 engine as of 6/10/23, PM me if you have one to sell!)
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  #25  
Old 03-21-2010, 08:24 PM
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Where are you? Your signature says Atlanta, but your post said Tx.
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1957 Ponton 220S

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  #26  
Old 03-21-2010, 10:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffreyNMemphis View Post
Where are you? Your signature says Atlanta, but your post said Tx.
I go to school in Georgia, my home is in Texas.
300E is in Georgia
280C is in Texas
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2006 BMW M5 "Heidi" @ 109,000 miles
2005 MBZ C55 AMG "Lorelai" @ 165,000 miles
1991 MBZ 300E "Benzachino II" @ 165,000 miles
1990 MBZ 500SL "Shoshanna" @ 118,000 miles

(On the hunt for a good used M103 engine as of 6/10/23, PM me if you have one to sell!)
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  #27  
Old 03-21-2010, 11:22 PM
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I was able to get the harmonic balancer off the crank. I used a wrench coupled to the power steering pulley nut to keep the balancer from rotating.






Got the pulley from the balancer off first...


Balancer came off with two whacks from a rubber mallet as suggested...

After I got the balancer off and then I sprayed down the engine with a degreaser. I let it soak for about 15 minutes and then poured water in a funnel while directing the flow to specific parts of the engine. Helped to control the amount of water I used and I avoided the alternator, etc from getting soaked.

Tomorrow I am going to continue cleaning the engine and try to figure out how to get the A/C compressor out. My order of parts should arrive on Tuesday which includes a new water pump among other things.
__________________
2006 BMW M5 "Heidi" @ 109,000 miles
2005 MBZ C55 AMG "Lorelai" @ 165,000 miles
1991 MBZ 300E "Benzachino II" @ 165,000 miles
1990 MBZ 500SL "Shoshanna" @ 118,000 miles

(On the hunt for a good used M103 engine as of 6/10/23, PM me if you have one to sell!)
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  #28  
Old 03-21-2010, 11:55 PM
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So what does the large bolt hold on?

Interesting note, I have it on, ahem, good authority, that if you leave your 1/2 drive
ratchet on that big bolt where you were previously rotating the engine over, and forget about it, and start the car, it loosens that bolt nicely and makes a hell of a mess in the vicinity.
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1982 VW Caddy diesel 406K 1.9L AAZ
1994 E320 195K
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  #29  
Old 03-22-2010, 07:16 PM
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LOL! Wolf, this isn't one of your "secret" maintenance tricks is it??

Rahjulio, make sure you change that front crankshaft seal. That looks like where much of that oil is coming from. Also, change the two engine mount shocks right there in the front. They're a pain to get to when everything is in place. I've got a pair, but haven't changed them yet, because at least one of them (don't remember which one) is a pain.
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  #30  
Old 03-22-2010, 07:30 PM
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God wolf, you're starting to sound like you work on engines in the same manner as I do. Dangerous business there.

Rahulio, you're doing a superb job! Keep up the hard work man.

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