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  #31  
Old 04-17-2010, 09:00 PM
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I might be interested in finding an M110 engine, which is in 1973 to 1981 280 series.

Are you in Houston Pooka? You will have to give me a list of good European Salvage Pick-a-Parts.

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  #32  
Old 04-17-2010, 09:40 PM
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Jeffrey --- check your email, please.
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  #33  
Old 04-17-2010, 10:55 PM
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Jeffery,
Given the choice you've laid out, I'd opt for the fuelie injected powerplant. Lot cheaper in the long run. Be certain there's no rust looming on that car in out of the way places before even starting the project.
Just some automotive caution from a guy who's been there as a very young lad:

It seems to me that you may be 'going on the cheap' with a used (unknown) engine replacement..... That is usually costly......whether time/money or both. When you roll the dice you take a chance. The problem is that constantly rolling the dice (especially with old-used engines) becomes costly......whether you realize it or not. If money matters not - whatever. But I like value for my time and dollars.
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  #34  
Old 04-18-2010, 06:56 AM
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Jeffrey,

Just a thought. Have you pulled the valve cover off of the motor yet? The kind of sudden implosion might indicate a jumped timing/broken timing chain resulting in a valve kissing a piston ? ? ?

280SE Guy
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  #35  
Old 04-18-2010, 07:39 AM
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A couple of thoughts:

Don't beat yourself up about the oil situation. You had no reason to believe it was low on oil If the engine used that much oil in 1500 miles, it would have been on it's last legs anyway.

There have been couple of articles in The Star recently about the fintail that Drew Tibciek's son converted to an injected M110. Drew runs Heritage Woodworks in NC.
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  #36  
Old 04-18-2010, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by ctaylor738 View Post
A couple of thoughts:

Don't beat yourself up about the oil situation. You had no reason to believe it was low on oil If the engine used that much oil in 1500 miles, it would have been on it's last legs anyway.

There have been couple of articles in The Star recently about the fintail that Drew Tibciek's son converted to an injected M110. Drew runs Heritage Woodworks in NC.

This makes me wonder if anyone has ever done any thinking about replacement oil pumps after a certain amount of time/mileage just due to wear.

It certainly is cheaper than engine replacement.

I think even some of the sump pans are made to be removed in parts for access to the bottom half, right?
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  #37  
Old 04-20-2010, 10:18 AM
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Opened up my engine last night and found the problem looks like one of my lifters wore out causing play at the ball socket causing it to rattle till the ball socket broke throwing the lifter to the side...any one knows if this would bend my valve when the piston hit it? i dont think it would have because the valve is vertical yet may have caused extra wear on the valve seal? but anyways this free's up my 230 engine if you want it jeffrey
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  #38  
Old 04-20-2010, 11:23 AM
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Did you turn the crank by hand after you opened it up? It sounds like you got lucky...

Thank you for the offer on the engine. We should talk about it on the telephone.

The whole reason I started this thread was to help out the new guy by reminding or scaring everyone to check the oil.

I guess I also found out that I have good friends here. Thank you all for the kindness you showed toward me.

Jeffrey
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  #39  
Old 04-20-2010, 11:33 AM
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Jeffrey,

Have you determined what exactly happened yet?
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  #40  
Old 04-20-2010, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by JeffreyNMemphis View Post
Did you turn the crank by hand after you opened it up? It sounds like you got lucky...

Thank you for the offer on the engine. We should talk about it on the telephone.

The whole reason I started this thread was to help out the new guy by reminding or scaring everyone to check the oil.

I guess I also found out that I have good friends here. Thank you all for the kindness you showed toward me.

Jeffrey

Yep turned engine by hand to top dead center..anyone know if i should be on the zero mark at the crank when cam is on mark...mine sits at 2 degrees ,thinking i should get a chain and tensioner while im in there
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  #41  
Old 04-20-2010, 12:35 PM
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I still don't know what happened. The most likely scenario is that the oil pump failed, and without lubrication something bad happened.

Lesson one: "Check your oil".

I guess lesson number two would be "read your gauges". My oil pressure gauge was not reading correct oil pressure. My mistake was thinking the gauge was wrong. Which leads to lesson three: "if your gauge says low oil pressure, something is wrong".

If something wrong is the gauge, fix it. If something wrong is failed oil pump, fix it or die.

The car only has two gauges: oil pressure and water temperature. So those two things must be very important!

A new oil pump would have been cheaper than a new engine, and a new oil pump.
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  #42  
Old 04-20-2010, 12:38 PM
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Man this whole situation made my alternator troubles seem so trivial! I'm glad that you are sending the warning to the rest of us though. The day after you and I spoke my wife and I made a two hour drive to an art museum. Guess what I did after filling up? Checked the oil!! Not something I would commonly do after a fill up in the daily driver E300, but thanks to your warning I felt as though I had to. Sure enough, about a quart and a half low.

I think this should teach all of us "Gearheads" a lesson to get in the habit of checking the "lifeblood" levels at every fill up, regardless.
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  #43  
Old 04-20-2010, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by JeffreyNMemphis View Post
I guess lesson number two would be "read your gauges". My oil pressure gauge was not reading correct oil pressure. My mistake was thinking the gauge was wrong. Which leads to lesson three: "if your gauge says low oil pressure, something is wrong".
Trusting your gauges is #1 above anything else. I've heard it many times before and I recently had a friend who had his oil pressure warning gauge come on, going down the highway. Gauge must be broken he said and kept driving, right? Wrong....seized engine.
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  #44  
Old 04-20-2010, 02:16 PM
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the guages on these old cars are mechanical not much can go wrong with them from one day to another unless the oil passage gets blocked or the rubber line that looks like a brake hose between the engine and the guage rots out (mines dry rotted but they want a lot of money for that little rubber line and its still working as is)
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  #45  
Old 04-21-2010, 09:17 AM
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Oh Jeff, you have the same luck I do. Just hang in there, Emerald Bullett has been through worse, and she'll survive this too. I havent been able to get any work done on Wilma for a while. Too bad you don't live closer dude, we would have good times.

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