w110 190Dc acquired - Page 6 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

KCM · #76 04-27-2010, 11:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Necrosavant

not sure the purpose A0001845725 but there cheap.

There are two different screens. 000 184 57 25 I'm pretty sure fits the 200D and newer up until the OM616/OM617 engines. The correct number for the 190Dc is 000 184 77 25. The 200D screen is smaller in diameter than the 190Dc to match the filter and housing.

For reference, the o-ring for the 190Dc is 621 997 00 45, and for the 200D and newer 013 997 88 48.

Necrosavant · #77 04-27-2010, 11:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KCM

There are two different screens. 000 184 57 25 I'm pretty sure fits the 200D and newer up until the OM616/OM617 engines. The correct number for the 190Dc is 000 184 77 25. The 200D screen is smaller in diameter than the 190Dc to match the filter and housing.

For reference, the o-ring for the 190Dc is 621 997 00 45, and for the 200D and newer 013 997 88 48.

i gave him the number for the 200d screen because he stated its a 200 engine in a 190

daw_two · #78 04-27-2010, 12:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KCM

The 200D should be an OM621.VIII, 621.918-1#-######.

The engine tag on Ben I would say is not the original. The serial number 001826 is way too low for the serial number of the car. The rest of the engine numbers look correct.

I'm sure the mesh screen is just another finer filter to catch anything the main filter misses.

Plot thickens ---- just got an email from the Classic Center. The engine tag I posted is for the original engine. Would that have been "previously" mounted to the side of the block? Where would I find the current engine identification badge or numbers?

Necrosavant · #79 04-27-2010, 12:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by daw_two

Plot thickens ---- just got an email from the Classic Center. The engine tag I posted is for the original engine. Would that have been "previously" mounted to the side of the block? Where would I find the current engine identification badge or numbers?

engine tag should be on driver side of block torwards firewall

Darthgrader · #80 04-27-2010, 01:19 PM

Congratulations, Daw. I think that's my favorite of your fleet! It's a beauty.

daw_two · #81 04-28-2010, 01:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darthgrader

Congratulations, Daw. I think that's my favorite of your fleet! It's a beauty.

Thanks. Well, here's tonight's update.....

Anxious to use my newly acquired 14mm Allen hardened socket, I go the rearend of Ben up in the air. Noticed I have a diesel leak --- think it's coming from the short rubber hose between the tank and the hard fuel lines. Note to self; change those, too.

Now, we all REMEMBER to remove the FILL PLUG first on the differential, right? That's so, if you cannot remove the FILL PLUG, then you don't drain out the differential oil. Well, the fill plug was quite easy to get out as was the drain plug. The crankcase oil didn't look too bad, actually. Please note that I am not letting the wheels hang --- I don't want to overfill the rearend when I got to fill it back up. Also, note, that I have 2 sets of jack sands under the rearend. Safety first. I always get the car in the position I want and then give it a good shake.

Inspected the front say bar (is that the correct term?) and it needs rubber bushings on both sides, top and bottoms. Interesting exhaust system under this car. Is that a "cherry bomb"? The "mid mount" on the driveshaft looks brand new. Brake lines look good on the driver's front --- note to self; check others when performing brake fluid flush.

With the rearend up.....I know, I should have jacked up the front first.....and the the differential draining, I decided to tackle the oil plug. Last night it would not budge, but tonight, I had my 14mm Allen hardened socket.

It was harder to get open than the rearend plugs. Sheesh!!! Someone didn't want it to come loose that's for sure.

So, while the motor oil was draining, I decided to tackle the transmission fluid. It looked brand new. After cleaning off the pan, I dropped the pan ---- beware, the dipstick screws into the side of the transmission pan (weird). I had noticed some discoloration on the outside of the pan. After dropping the pan down a few inches, I was shocked not to find a "filter" but just a screen. Is this what is suppose to be there? I did notice a few tiny particles caught in the screen. I blasted them out with brake cleaner and re-installed the screen. I sprayed out the pan with brake cleaner, too. Please notice the inside of the transmission pan ---- now, I know what caused the discoloration on the outside of the pan.

So, filters get ordered tomorrow along with the front sway bar bushings (is that the proper term?). And then I'll have to see about the rubber fuel lines and radiator flush.

Here are the pics.

Takernz_30 · #82 04-28-2010, 07:29 AM

Did you pull off the engine oil pan? first oil change of your recently acquired car should be doing this, this will have a look for heavy sludge which is OK but if you find some metal bits as large as a rice grain, consider the engine bearings damage.You have to change all the rubbers you picture sir, didn't you notice the thumping sound when running over the pothole or road hump? the shocks also be changed as well, you better have a good look at the rubber spring seat for brittle or worn. Your car's undercarriage is excellent! not a spot of damage or rust damage. The tranny oil pan has recently repaired drain plug hole, notice the poorly soldered (copper) area of the pan? Can you remove the filter, and have that a good blast of air?

daw_two · #83 04-28-2010, 08:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Takernz_30

Did you pull off the engine oil pan? first oil change of your recently acquired car should be doing this, this will have a look for heavy sludge which is OK but if you find some metal bits as large as a rice grain, consider the engine bearings damage.You have to change all the rubbers you picture sir, didn't you notice the thumping sound when running over the pothole or road hump? the shocks also be changed as well, you better have a good look at the rubber spring seat for brittle or worn. Your car's undercarriage is excellent! not a spot of damage or rust damage. The tranny oil pan has recently repaired drain plug hole, notice the poorly soldered (copper) area of the pan? Can you remove the filter, and have that a good blast of air?

I have not pulled the oil pan....considering the last oil change was just 70 miles ago (and about 6 years), I'm not sure how much (or if any) sludge will be in there. I have only driven the car off the trailer and then into my garage. I removed the transmission filter and gave it a good blast of brake cleaner.

KCM · #84 04-28-2010, 09:37 AM

That exhaust system must be an Exhausts-R-Us special! That's quite the cherry bomb you have. The original should have a small resonator under the floorboards and a large muffler at the right rear under the spare tire. If you only have that cherry bomb, I can image that the car is much louder than it needs to be (and they aren't that quite to start with).

I agree that pulling the pan is likely not necessary, unless you see a lot of crap coming out when you drain it. If you have any concerns, you can change it again in 500 or 1000 miles.

I am totally surprised that engine tag is original. That serial number seems awfully low. What year is the car again?

Also, what oil filter did you find out is in it, the larger 190Dc or smaller 200D?

This thread is as much fun as Konstan's 300D engine rebuild thread in the diesel section.

daw_two · #85 04-28-2010, 10:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KCM

That exhaust system must be an Exhausts-R-Us special! That's quite the cherry bomb you have. The original should have a small resonator under the floorboards and a large muffler at the right rear under the spare tire. If you only have that cherry bomb, I can image that the car is much louder than it needs to be (and they aren't that quite to start with).

I agree that pulling the pan is likely not necessary, unless you see a lot of crap coming out when you drain it. If you have any concerns, you can change it again in 500 or 1000 miles.

I am totally surprised that engine tag is original. That serial number seems awfully low. What year is the car again?

Also, what oil filter did you find out is in it, the larger 190Dc or smaller 200D?

This thread is as much fun as Konstan's 300D engine rebuild thread in the diesel section.

The exhaust system also contains an added muffler near the fuel tank ---- confirmed this morning that the fuel tank rubber hose connection is leaking. The tank vent (bell shape thingy) is intact though.

The car is registered as a 1966. Wikepedia has this information about the 190Dc.

Oil filter is 5 inches tall and about 4 1/8 inches in diameter. Would that be the larger 190Dc or the smaller 200D filter? The local place was UNABLE to secure it. The one they provided did not have a way for the oil to flow "thru" the filter and was about an inch too short. The rod that goes thru the middle of the filter is solid --- there are holes in the existing oil filter on the top around the center hole (where the bolt and rod in the filter housing). Phil (PeachParts, FastLane, etc) has secured a source for me. My plan is to change the filter and oil --- run it about 500-1000 miles; then change it again.....just for good measure.

Fun threads? Yeah, I'm all about documentation. Maybe something I write or take a picture of will help someone in the future. I like to teach, so it's a natural extension of one of my passions. I also like to talk....a LOT....so, it's a natural extension of that passion, too.

JeffreyNMemphis · #86 04-28-2010, 12:32 PM

Thank you for sharing! I enjoy the pictures and learning vicariously through your adventure.

KCM · #87 04-28-2010, 04:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by daw_two

The car is registered as a 1966. Wikepedia has this information about the 190Dc.

I would say you have a 1965 model, as theoretically all 1966 models were 200D's. I have heard that back then the year on the registration was based on when it was registered, not when it was produced. Don't know if this is true.

Quote:

Originally Posted by daw_two

Oil filter is 5 inches tall and about 4 1/8 inches in diameter. Would that be the larger 190Dc or the smaller 200D filter? The local place was UNABLE to secure it. The one they provided did not have a way for the oil to flow "thru" the filter and was about an inch too short. The rod that goes thru the middle of the filter is solid --- there are holes in the existing oil filter on the top around the center hole (where the bolt and rod in the filter housing). Phil (PeachParts, FastLane, etc) has secured a source for me.

Phooey! The filter should be available either in stock or by special order at any parts house. I have discovered though that not all parts books are correct, calling out the 200D filter for the 190Dc. From the dimensions you gave, you have the 190Dc filter. OEM specs are:

190Dc: 4.33" OD, 4.92" Tall
200D: 3.78" OD, 4.33" Tall

For the 190Dc, ask for a filter for a 1950 Ford 6-cylinder, car or truck. For the 200D, the filter is the same as a 1939 to 1952 Ford 9N, 2N, and 8N tractor. The o-ring must be obtained from the MB dealer or MB parts source. I order several o-rings (see previous post, this thread for #) at a time and put them on the shelf.

P.S. Not all filters are constructed the same, but are still interchangable. Knecht may have holes around the center, but other may not. Here is the Hengst filter:

daw_two · #88 04-28-2010, 04:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KCM

I would say you have a 1965 model, as theoretically all 1966 models were 200D's. I have heard that back then the year on the registration was based on when it was registered, not when it was produced. Don't know if this is true.

Concur.

Quote:

Originally Posted by KCM

Phooey! The filter should be available either in stock or by special order at any parts house. I have discovered though that not all parts books are correct, calling out the 200D filter for the 190Dc. From the dimensions you gave, you have the 190Dc filter. OEM specs are:

190Dc: 4.33" OD, 4.92" Tall
200D: 3.78" OD, 4.33" Tall

For the 190Dc, ask for a filter for a 1950 Ford 6-cylinder, car or truck. For the 200D, the filter is the same as a 1939 to 1952 Ford 9N, 2N, and 8N tractor. The o-ring must be obtained from the MB dealer or MB parts source. I order several o-rings (see previous post for #) at a time and put them on the shelf.

I would say I definitely have the 190Dc oil filter as it was right at 5inches tall. I didn't think it was 4 1/3 inches diameter though. I'll have to give the local place another shot I guess and use the 1950 Ford 6 cylinder lookup info.

Thanks! Now, I'll have to look up that O ring information. Any thoughts on the copper crush washer on the drain plug? I might as well do all of this stuff the "right way".

Thanks, again, for your assistance.

KCM · #89 04-28-2010, 04:58 PM

On the crush washers, I always reuse them and never have a problem, except for the oil pan plug. But here are the MB part numbers:

Filter drain plug: N007603 012101
Filter bolt: N007603 010402
Oil pan plug: N915034 000025

There is nothing real special about these. Any copper washer the right size should work.

daw_two · #90 04-29-2010, 02:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KCM

I would say you have a 1965 model, as theoretically all 1966 models were 200D's. I have heard that back then the year on the registration was based on when it was registered, not when it was produced. Don't know if this is true.

Phooey! The filter should be available either in stock or by special order at any parts house. I have discovered though that not all parts books are correct, calling out the 200D filter for the 190Dc. From the dimensions you gave, you have the 190Dc filter. OEM specs are:

190Dc: 4.33" OD, 4.92" Tall
200D: 3.78" OD, 4.33" Tall

For the 190Dc, ask for a filter for a 1950 Ford 6-cylinder, car or truck. For the 200D, the filter is the same as a 1939 to 1952 Ford 9N, 2N, and 8N tractor. The o-ring must be obtained from the MB dealer or MB parts source. I order several o-rings (see previous post, this thread for #) at a time and put them on the shelf.

P.S. Not all filters are constructed the same, but are still interchangable. Knecht may have holes around the center, but other may not. Here is the Hengst filter:

THAT filter does NOT look correct. Isn't the bolt and rod that goes thru the middle of the filter, solid? I can see the photobucket pics of the filter since my work blocks those pics.