2,000 Mile Trip Planned For 1968 W110 200D - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

D&W · #16 06-10-2010, 11:24 PM

sounds good keep it up!

mercmad6.3 · #17 06-11-2010, 01:48 AM

Check the cars underside for oil. Synthetic oil isn't a good choice for older mercedes because of the rope seal on the rear of the crankshaft. Synthetic oil tends to go straight through them,but your oil might be a bit thin. Modern engines can handle a 15 oil but mercedes tend to run better with 20W50.
if there is a diesel service place near you,take your injectors in and get them to check them in case the smoking is just leaky nozzles.

mak · #18 06-11-2010, 03:38 AM

you may like to check the alternator bushes and the drive belts. marginal ones do give way on the long run.
mak

Squiggle Dog · #19 06-11-2010, 03:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mercmad6.3

Check the cars underside for oil. Synthetic oil isn't a good choice for older mercedes because of the rope seal on the rear of the crankshaft. Synthetic oil tends to go straight through them,but your oil might be a bit thin. Modern engines can handle a 15 oil but mercedes tend to run better with 20W50.
if there is a diesel service place near you,take your injectors in and get them to check them in case the smoking is just leaky nozzles.

It's not leaking much now with 15W40 synthetic, but with 5W40 synthetic it was leaking a lot. I am trying to avoid petroleum products as much as possible. I may be pulling the engine and resealing it at some point, anyway.

I will probably take the injectors in at some point, but until the trip, all I will be able to afford is to replace the pump diaphragm. Though it smokes, it has good acceleration and fuel mileage.

Squiggle Dog · #20 06-11-2010, 03:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mak

you may like to check the alternator bushes and the drive belts. marginal ones do give way on the long run.
mak

The car has a brand new Bosch alternator in it and fresh Continental Contitech belts.

Mark DiSilvestro · #21 06-11-2010, 11:15 PM

Once you're on youy way, be sure to check your engine oil level at every fill-up.
Regardless of whatever oil consumption you're used to around town, some of these old engines may use alot more oil during long sustained highway driving. You may want to carry several extra quarts with you.

Happy Motoring, Mark

Squiggle Dog · #22 06-13-2010, 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark DiSilvestro

Once you're on youy way, be sure to check your engine oil level at every fill-up.
Regardless of whatever oil consumption you're used to around town, some of these old engines may use alot more oil during long sustained highway driving. You may want to carry several extra quarts with you.

Happy Motoring, Mark

I'll do that (the one time I will have to stop for fuel, LOL). I'm going to get more oil from the local Amsoil dealer. I've taken it on 100-mile trips and it didn't seem to consume any oil, so that's a good sign.

Squiggle Dog · #23 06-13-2010, 11:45 AM

I have the car drivable again, finally. I bled the brakes about 5 times, first with a one-man bleeder hose with check valve, then the old-fashioned way with my roommate pumping and then holding the brakes while I release the bleeder screw. After the second time bleeding the brakes I couldn't see any air bubbles coming from the bleeder screws, but it still feels like there is air in the system.

The pedal is soft until a certain point and then it firms up. It also makes a "whoosh" or sucking noise before the pedal pressure is firm. Maybe the booster is bad? I did have the booster out to drain fluid out of it. I think it was brake fluid (not oil) inside of it from a leaking master cylinder. I also adjusted the pedal play so it has the least amount.

I hate these rear drum brakes. I have the brakes adjusted in as far as they will go, but I still get a scraping sound from the shoes contacting the drums. I'll try releasing tension on the parking brake cable to see if it helps them to seat inward some more.

pchbreeze · #24 06-13-2010, 12:28 PM

If you're still working out the bugs out of your car then I highly recommend you avoid being so far away from home with it. There are other bugs will manifest themselves under other driving conditions. Getting something fixed when you're 1000 miles from home isn't the same when you need it done right away and you dont know any shops around.

Squiggle Dog · #25 06-13-2010, 12:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pchbreeze

If you're still working out the bugs out of your car then I highly recommend you avoid being so far away from home with it. There are other bugs will manifest themselves under other driving conditions. Getting something fixed when you're 1000 miles from home isn't the same when you need it done right away and you dont know any shops around.

Yeah, but it's been really reliable before the brakes went out. Almost everything else I have already serviced or replaced as preventative measures.

Mark DiSilvestro · #26 06-13-2010, 08:47 PM

On those rear brakes, you want the shoes as close to the drums as possible without dragging. Excessive clearance will definitely result in a low brake pedal, as it takes that much more fluid to get the shoes out to the drums.

Happy Motoring, Mark

Squiggle Dog · #27 06-13-2010, 11:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark DiSilvestro

On those rear brakes, you want the shoes as close to the drums as possible without dragging. Excessive clearance will definitely result in a low brake pedal, as it takes that much more fluid to get the shoes out to the drums.

Happy Motoring, Mark

The problem is the brakes drag a little all the time, even when they are adjusted in all the way and there is no tension on the parking brake cable. But, they don't drag enough to make the wheel hard to turn, just make a scraping noise.

Squiggle Dog · #28 06-13-2010, 11:56 PM

Today I refurbished the outside rear view mirror with new glass and retainer. I cleaned it and lubricated the pivot points so it can be adjusted again. I also installed a wider inside rear view mirror from a W116 for better visibility.

I installed a new OEM exhaust tip, though I was hoping it would be a turn-down tip instead of a straight one. I replaced the few-month-old but dry rotted aftermarket exhaust hangers with new OEM ones.

I also cleaned all 16 or so chassis lubrication points and lubricated them. The next time I want a lift because it is really difficult to do on my back.

I installed new shifter bushings and boots. Now the shift lever has no play and is very smooth, like new.

Mark DiSilvestro · #29 06-14-2010, 08:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Squiggle Dog

The problem is the brakes drag a little all the time, even when they are adjusted in all the way and there is no tension on the parking brake cable. But, they don't drag enough to make the wheel hard to turn, just make a scraping noise.

As you said, it scrapes even with the shoes adjusted as loose as possible. And now there's alot of pedal-travel before the brakes grab

The scraping may have nothing to do with the shoe adjustment. Sometimes a brake shoe gets misaligned, or one of the linings isn't square on the shoe, causing the edge to rub on the flat part of the drum,
But usually, rust or dirt will build-up in the groove where the drums and backing-plates fit together. Or the backing-plate itself might be slighly dented or nicked in one spot, causing it to scrape on the edge of the drum.

Happy Motoring, Mark

Squiggle Dog · #30 06-15-2010, 05:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark DiSilvestro

As you said, it scrapes even with the shoes adjusted as loose as possible. And now there's alot of pedal-travel before the brakes grab

The scraping may have nothing to do with the shoe adjustment. Sometimes a brake shoe gets misaligned, or one of the linings isn't square on the shoe, causing the edge to rub on the flat part of the drum,
But usually, rust or dirt will build-up in the groove where the drums and backing-plates fit together. Or the backing-plate itself might be slighly dented or nicked in one spot, causing it to scrape on the edge of the drum.

Happy Motoring, Mark

That makes sense. I am going to inspect them again in about a week and readjust if necessary. Other than the initial mushy feel, the brakes grab very well and there is no more pulling to one side. Now I feel that I can confidently hit the brakes hard if necessary and not go swerving all over and locking up wheels.