Hello Everyone:

My 1972 MBZ 250 idled roughly due to a defective carb gasket, the Bake-a-Lite looking one, sandwiched between the carb and the intake manifold.

I have removed the dual Zenith carbs, and am having a difficult time removing the gaskets from the base of the carb. They seem to be really stuck to the carb, and I am afraid to pry at them.

So, does any have any suggestions / experience in removing these gaskets? Are the adhesive-based? If so, should I shoot them with some heat?

Also, what is the recommended torquing specs for the carb nuts?

Please advise.

Lowell

If you have the new insulating gaskets then get yourself a gasket scraper down at Napa or McParts (looks like a thin wood chisel with only one side tapered) and insert it between the base and gasket to lift it off. Use some care to avoid deeply gouging the carb bases. When you get the majority of the gasket off you can give it a thorough cleaning with a scotch brite pad mounted to your electric drill. This is also available at Napa/McParts and is commonly used by pros to get a clean tidy mounting surface when tough gaskets come off in little pieces. Sealers are usually not needed with a good gasket on a clean flat mounting surface. Old-school mechanics will frequently bathe gasket surfaces with a Permatex-type sealer to ensure they do not have a come-back with a job due to a leaking gasket. Most new systems don't need it except where two gasketed surfaces might intersect (i.e. corners), like with an intake manifold on a V8. Don't recall a specific torque spec, I just try to tighten evenly snug so I don't need to get at the inside nuts (buried on the back side) a second time.

It may a good time to get a carb rebuild kit , do recheck base for typical warping on the zeniths.
JCwhitney carries the German carb synchronizer for around $30. A good instrument.
mak

The carb kit carries all the gaskits including the base bakalite ones
mak