Engine Swap Thread 1962 Fintail 220Sb gets a motor swap! - Page 5 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

JeffreyNMemphis · #61 07-20-2010, 10:02 AM

We did not try heat... The soft metal heads are stripped now. We are probably going to be chiseling or using a cutting torch next and drilling out the bolts.

JeffreyNMemphis · #62 07-20-2010, 02:19 PM

New video on Youtube.com

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jnsDTu_g0zA

Ritchie · #63 07-20-2010, 02:38 PM

:-) very cool vid Jeff

JiveTurkey · #64 07-20-2010, 03:05 PM

Gotta love Willie Nelson!!

bwostosh · #65 07-21-2010, 12:40 AM

Check your Allen wrench for rounded corners.

Try grinding the end of the Allen hex wrench square to get a grip deep into the Allen head bolt, then tap (smack pretty hard) it into the bolt before attempting the unscrewing. Sometimes you only get one chance at that receiving bolt head before stripping the hex.

GGR · #66 07-21-2010, 12:58 AM

nice vid!

daw_two · #67 07-21-2010, 07:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bwostosh

Check your Allen wrench for rounded corners.

Try grinding the end of the Allen hex wrench square to get a grip deep into the Allen head bolt, then tap (smack pretty hard) it into the bolt before attempting the unscrewing. Sometimes you only get one chance at that receiving bolt head before stripping the hex.

You could always WELD an Allen head wrench to the bolt. I've learned a few tricks from the welder guy.

Tomguy · #68 07-21-2010, 09:45 AM

Since I don't have a welder, I do have some Torx bits. They can come in handy when removing stripped out allen-head bolts. Hammer in the next size up Torx bit with a 5lb mallet. Just make sure you hammer it in quite far! I had to actually do this on Monday. I just pressed in the new ball joint for my Charger and was installing the Zerk fitting when it snapped inside the ball joint! A T15 hammered into the grease passageway on what was left, and I removed the snapped off bit and said "Screw this" on the soft brass 90° elbow, and just used the steel fitting itself w/o the elbow.

JeffreyNMemphis · #69 08-08-2010, 05:15 PM

Hello Peaches,

The motor swap has turned into a complete rebuild from the heads up! I got the gasket kit from Germany which included the head gasket, manifold/exhaust gasket, crush rings for the exhaust pipes and the distributor gasket. Yesterday we installed the head gasket. The cam on the donor motor was pitted so we kept the cam from the original engine; which involved removing all of the springs and rockers and cam journals from the original head and transferring them. It took about two hours to sort out the correct amount of shimming required to allow smooth movement in the cam when all the journals were tightened down. When it was all done, the cam moved smoothly; now we are ready to install the rockers and springs.

We installed the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate. Special thanks to David in LA for the pilot tool that made the install go quick and smooth. David also provided the flywheel and bolts that are rare as cat poop on Mars (The Classic Center doesn't even have these items). After eight hours we were done for the day...

Still to come is the rockers and springs, the distributor, and then set the timing. Next will be all the peripheral items like the AC compressor, water pump and alternator. Then we will lower the motor in and start buttoning it all up. It will be at least two weeks until we can have another eight hours on the project. This is definitely delayed gratification...

I can't wait to get on the road again! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jnsDTu_g0zA

JeffreyNMemphis · #70 08-27-2010, 08:42 AM

Hello Peaches,

The engine is in the Emerald Bullet. Yesterday I put a new radiator hose on and filled it with coolant and water. It is running!!

I have to install a new set of shifter bushings. The old ones broke in the dismantling process. One came off easy, the other is not giving up without a fight.

The engine is making a ticking noise that sounds like it is coming from the top end. One of the lifters is sticking? Or a rocker is not happy? I will be working on this mystery immediately.

Here is a gratuitous photo. I plan to scrub the engine clean when it is running smoothly.

JeffreyNMemphis · #71 09-05-2010, 03:02 AM

Good News! The Emerald Bullet is alive and well.

When we got the engine installed and running, there was a loud ticking sound that concerned me. It sounds like something is not entirely right with the valve train. We performed three valve adjustments and the noise didn't change. The engine runs very strong. The increase in power compared to the original engine is tremendous. The original motor was much smoother, without all the valve chatter. The new motor has lots of smooth power, but the noise coming from the top end was something of concern.

I did a compression test and the numbers were pretty good: 140, 135, 125, 135, 135, 130.

We pulled the valve cover and ran the motor. Don used a stethescope to listen to each cylinder. The main problem turned out to be intake valve number six. The ball on the pivot tower was worn into a shape like a pear instead of round. I suspect that all of the pivots are worn from oil starvation. The oil drip tube across the head on the donor motor was in not working properly. Don shaped the pivot ball round again and we put all the stuff back together. It is running very well with less of a ticking noise. I am still not entire happy with the sound. I plan to start shopping for new pivots and rocker arms.

I posted a video on youtube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rjlTYXCmqwo

You can hear a difference before and after.

mercmad6.3 · #72 09-05-2010, 04:17 AM

Did you prime the timing chain tensioner?(pour oil into the pocket below the tensioner and push the tensioner with a lever until it goes hard against the chain)
The oil pressure is a bit low/sluggish . I would change the oil pump and take number 1 big end cap off for a look.
it sounds like the cam bearings are worn or a piston gudgeon pin is rattling. These are both things which go hand in hand with the way your oil gauge is behaving.

JeffreyNMemphis · #73 09-05-2010, 07:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mercmad6.3

Did you prime the timing chain tensioner?(pour oil into the pocket below the tensioner and push the tensioner with a lever until it goes hard against the chain)

No. The chain felt tight when I checked it. But I did not check the tightness of the chain tensioner. How do I check to make sure the chain tensioner is functioning correctly?

Should I pull the valve cover and pour oil into the pocket now and push the tensioner with a lever to prime it? Could there be an air pocket after 200 miles?

Quote:

Originally Posted by mercmad6.3

The oil pressure is a bit low/sluggish . I would change the oil pump and take number 1 big end cap off for a look.
it sounds like the cam bearings are worn or a piston gudgeon pin is rattling. These are both things which go hand in hand with the way your oil gauge is behaving.

Oil pump, cam bearings, or a piston gudgeon! What a list!!

We checked the cam bearings during the rebuild. The cam was journaled correctly and seemed to rotate smoothly as it should (according to Don).

Is there some way to check the oil pump? We ran the engine for a few minutes, several times, trying to pinpoint the location of the ticking. The oil flow seemed very healthy (the engine was idling, not being revved).

How would I checked to see if a piston gudgeon is rattling? This is the scariest, worst possible thing it could be.

mercmad6.3 · #74 09-05-2010, 09:34 AM

Unless the tensioner is primed it will always rattle . You remove the cam cover and when you look at the front of the engine the tensioner wheel can be seen on the left .
Push the sprocket on the tensioner down with a lever .If it moves,it's loose so just keep pushing it until it stops moving .
The best way to check cam bearing wear is to remove the rocker arms and the chain sprocket . Lift the cam up. If ANY movement at all can be found,it's worn.
BTW,why don't you use the ball studs for the tappets from your old engine?

it's easy to check for pin wear in the engine, with it idling,pull each plug lead in turn,if a piston pin or big end bearing is worn,the noise will stop on which ever cylinder you just pulled the plug lead on.

The scariest thing is not the fualt causing the noise,it's the component failing on you miles from home because you didn't fix it:eek....

JeffreyNMemphis · #75 09-06-2010, 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mercmad6.3

Unless the tensioner is primed it will always rattle . You remove the cam cover and when you look at the front of the engine the tensioner wheel can be seen on the left .
Push the sprocket on the tensioner down with a lever .If it moves,it's loose so just keep pushing it until it stops moving .
The best way to check cam bearing wear is to remove the rocker arms and the chain sprocket . Lift the cam up. If ANY movement at all can be found,it's worn.
BTW,why don't you use the ball studs for the tappets from your old engine?

it's easy to check for pin wear in the engine, with it idling,pull each plug lead in turn,if a piston pin or big end bearing is worn,the noise will stop on which ever cylinder you just pulled the plug lead on.

The scariest thing is not the fualt causing the noise,it's the component failing on you miles from home because you didn't fix it:eek....

I primed the tensioner, but it didn't change the sound of the engine.

The pivot towers are a different size on the M130 engine, so I can't use the ones from my original engine. The balls are the same size, the studs are different.