Ok, so I took my distrubutor out today so I could clean my FI trigger points. Right after I finished, it was apparent to me that I really couldnt keep the distributor from rotating and so I will have to reset the timing. My question is:
What is the best way to rotate the engine by hand? I know this seems like a basic question, but every pulley nut I rotate just slips the belts and doesnt turn the crank. The crank pulley itself has completely terrible access. I realize I didnt plan this out as well as I should have, and am just trying to minimize the pain at this point.
My car is a 72 280sel 4.5. Any input would be greatly appreciated!

Jason

I think crank pulley bolt is 22 mm. With a socket you can make it. If you don't have the socket you can try turning the power steering pump pulley with a wrench while you push down with your hand on the belts between the water pump and the power steering pump. Taking spark plugs out will make the job easier.

You should rotate your engine until the "0" on the pulley is in front of the pointer. Make sure cyl 1 is at ignition by having cyl 1 both lobes of the camshaft up (you may be able to see/feel it through the oil filler hole on the cam cover).

Then position the distributor so that the rotor is in front of the cyl 1 wire while still being able to rotate the dizzy towards advance or retard so that you can fine tune with a stroboscopic lamp later.

they're 27mm sir, Standard on all older MB engines.

__________________
PINOY PRIDE

You can easily turn it using the power steering pulley nut. All you have to do, is place a large wrench on the nut, then use one hand to pull upwards on the underside of the PS belts while rotating the wrench with the other hand.

I learned this from a local MB mechanic and it works like a charm!

__________________
Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

Now that you say it, indeed it's 27mm.

Pulling or pushing on the belts the idea is the same: put more tension on them. But by pushing down you have a better grip as the belts stick to the pulley on a slightly longer distance.

OK. Thanks to all of you for the great advice. I had many select words with my baby today, but those times are gone. I was finally able to get #1 to TDC, but had to use the starter. I pulled all the plugs, and put the wrench on the PS pulley. Even with the other hand on the belts, the crank would only move a little, then stop. Looking in the oil filler hole worked out great to see the cam lobes disengaged.

So after all that, my idle is still lumpy and the plugs are indicating a rich condition. I really think its a vacuum issue. I can take the line off of the advance at the distributor, and nothing happens. I can not feel vacuum on that hose either. Today I will follow the lines and see what I can find. I wil admit Im a rookie with older cars, every issue is a learning experience. Im just glad there are so many good people in this forum!

Kieth, Read both of these - you should gain some insight

BETTER but -New theory - DJET–Worn Distributor /trigger points
Hot and Cold idle miss on my D Jet

__________________
Ron
2015 Porsche Cayman - Elizabeth
2011 Porsche Cayman - Bond,James Bond
Sadly MERCEDESLESS - ALways LOOKING !
99 E320 THE Queen Mary - SOLD
62 220b - Dolly - Finally my Finny! Sadly SOLD
72 450SL, Pearl-SOLD
16 F350 6.7 Diesel -THOR
19 BMW X5 - Heaven on Wheels
14 38HP John Deere 3038E Tractor -Mean Green
84 300SD, Benjamin -SOLD
71 220 - W115-Libby ( my first love) -SOLD
73 280 - W114 "Organspende" Rest in Peace
81 380 SL - Rest in Peace

Following the line back from Distr. should hopefully find your problem. It connects to a switchover valve and then goes into back of throttle housing. If you have been running rich, it is possible that the very small hole on the inside of the throttle housing just below the throttle plate may be blocked.

PS: Make sure you have the A/C switched off - it disables the vacuum retard.

__________________
Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5