Wanted to adjust the valves on my 2.8 l inline 6 1969 coupe. I got the sequence for the torqueing of the head from the 113 site. My main question is do you have to have the special wrench to adjust the valves or can other tools o the job. Im not really sure how the adjuster works as well I have adjusted valves on my 69 302 camaro years ago as well as recently on my 68 austin mini. I did read that the intake is .003 and the ex is .007 and that it is a good idea to torque the while still head then go ahead and adjust valves after the engine has cooled. thanks alot would like to get it done today but not sure if its possible without the special wrench.

I just use an open end wrench. However a crows foot is helpful for the front cylinders. As I recall it's 17MM or 11/16.

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"If it's in the newspaper it must be true." Dudley Do-Right

ok so 17mm you break that loose and then there is another nut above that you turn to adjust the lash? i cant look it up in my mercedes manual cd because im having trouble with it i ha it working for a while but then i downloaded the new adobe and it messed everything up. a brief description of how to o the lash would be great.

My 4.5 is 17mm and I use a universal crow's foot. I would say you could on the 6 too. If the 6 is like the 8, you do not loosen the retainer below (it's not a lock, it's actually how the stud mounts in the head). You don't want the stud to be too easy to turn - there's a min torque setting you replace it at if it turns easier. I'm sure someone knows it. But I would advise against touching the head bolts while in there. It's an aluminum head & you wouldn't want to warp anything or risk breaking the seal if you aren't having any head gasket issues.

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Current:
2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee"
2018 Durango R/T

Previous:
1972 280SE 4.5
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi"
1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k

Ok so what your saying is that the big nut is the only one you turn. So you are actually backing the nut out of the head in order to adjust the lash?

This is what your ball stud should look like:
http://img.wpac.com/live/W01331628292LAS.JPG
The 17mm is the TOP nut & that is the nut you turn - you only loosen the base (the stud part itself) if you are replacing a stud that is either too worn for the rocker or too loose for setting the lash (to where it turns w/o a wrench when the engine is running).

__________________
Current:
2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee"
2018 Durango R/T

Previous:
1972 280SE 4.5
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi"
1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k

ok perfect i get it its hard to tell what your looking at under the hood covered in oil. So the 17mm ball head adjuster is just a tight fit in the stud so if it turns to loose then you would replace the stud because there is no way to lock it.

thanks alot i really appreciate your help.

exactly.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Thanks alot everyone I checked all the valves lastcnight they where all within spec. Although I would have liked to get everyonecwith the exact same feel so I know I'm within 1/4 of a thousandth. I tried to use a 17mm wrench and can see why it is a no go I will buy the special tool for the future. I noticed that without the tool not only do you have a poor angle on the wrench but also no leverage. Btw I got the engine hot first pulled it apart then proceeded to retorque all the head bolts. Then let cool for 3 hrs before I cheched the lash. Thanks all happy to be part of the peachparts commmunity.
Aaron CA

I don't mean to hijack this thread but I had a similar question. I have a 1971 280SE i6 and am in the process of trying to adjust the valves.

My initial plan was to adjust the valves by loosening the TOP nut but after reading this thread, it seems that the TOP nut is supposed to be TIGHTENED DOWN to a certain spec and is NOT supposed to move/loosen when the engine is in operation.

To adjust the valve, I should only turn the BOTTOM NUT (which is attached to the Cylinder head itself). Is my understanding correct?

The ball topped stud is the only thing to move.
Unscrew to tighten, screw in to loosen,
Special wrench on a 1/2" breaker bar in the only way.

Hey Thanks Brian. A fellow member was kind enough to sell me the wrench so once I get that, I will proceed with the valve adjustment. woohoo.