You can see the bung in this picture,it's brass .

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excellent suggestion regarding the W111 auto book. I still have it and find it very informative while carrying out repairs.
mak
220 S
230
280S
300SEL 3.5
300Se 126
Lancia Flavia 63

I beg your pardon, I hadn't thought of the keystroke. It does happen to me as well. Thanks for the pat on the back too.

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Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

One of the most important things to know if you are going to drive an old Mercedes is how to check the oil. Have you checked your oil recently? You should do it every time you fill the car with gas.

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1962 220Sb ~ The Emerald Bullet http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hx6tN1W48_o
1957 Ponton 220S
2001 S600 Daily Driver
The Universe is Abundant ~ Life is GOOD!http://www.classiccarclock.com

bung = drain plug. What a beauty! I wish I could find one of those. You are a lucky girl. I hope you can learn to take care of her. Relying on mechanics to keep classic (strange to them) cars running will bankrupt you.

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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)

A very old piece of advice from the olde days is to remember the Word POWER.
Without POWER the car wont run so every so often before going for a Drive follow the rule and check :
P= Petrol ( gasoline)
O= Oil
W= water or coolant and radiator hoses.
E= electricity, check the battery,fan belt ,and do a quick run around of the cars lights to see they are all working.
R= rubber,check tire pressure and tread depth.

whither "dorothy", and her, er, bung?

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"The law, in its majestic equality, forbids the rich as well as the poor to sleep under bridges, to beg in the streets, and to steal bread."

I belive you have solex carbs , on them there is no butterfly for cold start.
And on those cars brake fuild can get in the oil ,from the brake boster pull dipstick out and smell and see if the oil is thin. It sound like it started and you lost spark, and then it started to spark again.And check to see if the muffler ex- is open. where did the fluild come from the air cleaner are on. Check hose from valve cover. You can go to autoparts store and get a spark tester[we use to make them, somtimes there are in lawn mower section no more than 10$ you will use it again] this way you do not have to hold spark plug to test ,its a spark plug with a clip on it, there is no end on plug over electrode so spark has to jump to otter ring , this will tell you 2 things if you have spark and how hot it is.If you have spark with a plug from engine, no spark with the tester your spark is not hot enought to run engine.
this has nothing to do with problem but fuel filter should be before fuel pump.
if still having problems ,drink a beer and email in morning.

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30 yr's still in love

If Dorothy is running well I would replace the underhood fuel filter and leave the tank well enough alone. Anything regarding removal/replacement of the bung fitting is similar to a household plumbing repair - at least one thing on each side of the item you are trying to fix will break or leak in the process. If your tank is not leaking don't touch it.

The problem with an old gas tank is grunge and rust. At some time it would be wise to look inside. It is better to have it cleaned and coated before it rusts through, unless a spare is available.
Ed

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Ed
1960 220 SE Coupe (Ponton)
1999 E320 Wagon
2007 E350

I have heard this before ...from people who bring their cars to me to sort out which always involves clean 40-60 years of rust out of the fuel tanks .
Just like the old saying about computers, "...**** in **** out...." If you insist on driving with dirty fuel tank ,don't blame the car when it stops . And removing the bung just involves sticking a 14mm key in there and undoing it.
But having said that,if such a task is beyond a person and they're not capable of replacing a sealing ring and tightening it up again,leave to the pro's.
i posted this picture before...note that this is only the filter in the tank bung... this particular car has full service history and notes from drivers right back to 1962 and as the car got older ,comments were about not being able to start easily when hot,inability to climb steep drives or hills and the need to change down when driving on hilly roads... leave it at your peril.

I'm very late to this thread, but I noticed from the pix that the filter is on the output side of the fuel pump. It needs to be on the input side (sucking side, back side) or you could damage your fuel pump. By the way, the clear plastic filters are the best way to go because you can see the condition of the filter without having to remove it. Nice car. The Solex carbs are pretty simple and easy to service. Someone mentioned that these carbs don't have a butterfly choke. The choke is actually a fuel enrichment valve, half way out is fast throttle and all the way out is cold start. If the car won't run right one or both of the valves could be off by 180 degrees - an easy error to make when servicing the carbs. It's easy to check with the car running. But it sounds like you have your problem solved.

I'm about 2500 miles away from it, so I can't check, but I think my '71 has the fuel filter after the fuel pump. It looks like it was made that way.

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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar.

83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles
08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles
88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.