I need to either replace my radiator with OEM, re-core my existing radiator, or order a custom built aluminum radiator.

I'd like to save a buck, but with as little headache as possible.

Any Recommendations?

I've thought about 126 radiators in the 116, and whether or not a radiator from a 300SD (116) would handle the heat?

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RIP: 80 300SD
RIP: 79 450SEL
2002 E430 4matic (212,000km)
2002 ML500 'sport'

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FACEBOOK: PANZER450

I'm not sure if I can trust a Re-cored radiator. Anyone else have a re-cored radiator?

__________________
RIP: 80 300SD
RIP: 79 450SEL
2002 E430 4matic (212,000km)
2002 ML500 'sport'

____________________________
FACEBOOK: PANZER450

*Tempted to edit the poll to add the re-core option*

Usually re-coring is the most cost effective, but if the rad is plastic top and/or bottom, it's worthless on recoring. In scenarios where that's the case, then you go aftermarket.

A good chemical boiling on your existing rad, if not leaking, can do wonders.

__________________
Current:
2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee"
2018 Durango R/T

Previous:
1972 280SE 4.5
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi"
1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k

I looked at it after I posted it but was unable to edit the poll.

It's an OE Behr brass tank rad, so I know it can be re-cored, I just have never had it done. Most my other vehicles had rads replaced for around $160 I won't be able to get a new rad for the car for under $300 if at all. I'm quickly heading in the re-core direction.

__________________
RIP: 80 300SD
RIP: 79 450SEL
2002 E430 4matic (212,000km)
2002 ML500 'sport'

____________________________
FACEBOOK: PANZER450

There is nothing wrong with re-coring a radiator,a copper tank unit is unsoldered from the tanks ,and new core is soldered to existing tanks. Dead easy.
Alloy radiators with plastic tanks are even easier. the crimp is undone and the tanks fitted to the core with a new seal and recrimped. It takes a few minutes. If the top tank has a broken hose neck,it's simply a matter of replacing the tank.
Think of a recored radiator as being as good as a new one from the dealer but at a better price.

I agree. While the core is out can any dents in the tanks be straightened out? Someone mistook the bottom tank for a cross member at one time in it's life, and it's pushed up. I have another radiator, ironically, it Is damaged and unusable. I'll take that one in to the rad shop on Monday and have it measured up and then I can get a better estimate as to how much.

__________________
RIP: 80 300SD
RIP: 79 450SEL
2002 E430 4matic (212,000km)
2002 ML500 'sport'

____________________________
FACEBOOK: PANZER450

The tanks are copper and can pushed out by hand with a little effort. I don't know about the US but here a new core is about $150 with a warranty. Also,most radiator shops here have an line source for cores and only need to know the cars details to get a core from stock. As i understand it,any car back to the 1920's can be sourced from NatRad.
http://www.natrad.com.au/
I do my own and have done for years.

Even after voting, I cannot see a way to edit the poll, sorry!

I still suggest a system flush before jumping into recoring the radiator. My Jeep enjoyed spending time near the red-zone. I did a full flush of the radiator by removing it and using my garden hose, then reassembling the system and using an acid flush, then draining, water flushing 2 more times, and then finally a coolant addition. The result was an impressive stay in the "Midzone" at ALL TIMES in 90+ heat with the A/C on.

__________________
Current:
2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee"
2018 Durango R/T

Previous:
1972 280SE 4.5
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi"
1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k

Instead of re coring, take it to a radiator shop and have it professionally cleaned. It costs about $60 for them to clean it and it takes about 3 hours.

If they can't clean it then you can re-core it.

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With best regards

Al

Al,that big ding in the bottom he desdcribed sounds like it may be blocking flow to a certain extent.

It doesn't appear to be that bad, I don't think it's pushed up al the wat to the tubes.I'll try to dig up a pic.

__________________
RIP: 80 300SD
RIP: 79 450SEL
2002 E430 4matic (212,000km)
2002 ML500 'sport'

____________________________
FACEBOOK: PANZER450

You can see the bottom of the radiator at the corners just below the front valance, and the rise towards the middle where the jack head was placed...(arrows)

And I imagine that if it is touching the tubes at all or close enough to restrict, It could amount to a 40% if not 50% reduction in flow..Not to mention damage my transmission line...

Attached Thumbnails

 

__________________
RIP: 80 300SD
RIP: 79 450SEL
2002 E430 4matic (212,000km)
2002 ML500 'sport'

____________________________
FACEBOOK: PANZER450

Look at the measurements and order a metal radiator for a truck.Do away with other lines to overflow except one.

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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran

A Truck???

__________________
RIP: 80 300SD
RIP: 79 450SEL
2002 E430 4matic (212,000km)
2002 ML500 'sport'

____________________________
FACEBOOK: PANZER450

X2

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Strelnik
Invest in America: Buy a Congressman!

1950 170SD
1951 Citroen 11BN
1953 Citroen 11BNF limo
1953 220a project
1959 180D
1960 190D
1960 Borgward Isabella TS 2dr
1983 240D daily driver
1983 380SL
1990 350SDL daily driver alt
3 x Citroen DS21M, down from 5
3 x Citroen 2CV, down from 6