Hello all

I'm new to the forum, so I don't know how you all feel about "Noobs," but if you don't ask the questions, you never get the answers.

I'm a person of modest means with mechanical abilities as well as access to competent mechanics.

I want a Mercedes 240d for all the reasons that this group if aware:

Simple, efficient, reliable, durable and easily maintained.

I'm patient enough to find the right one.

I know there are specific things that only the expierenced can relate, hence my appeal to the sage masses.

Is there a trade of for, let's say, high mileage (250k+) with maintenance records vs low mileage undocumented maintenance.

There are a zillion questions. Whatever information you care to share about scouting one of these fine automobiles would be appreciated.

Thanks

Pete

Check out this one in the Cars section. Maybe it's a match for you.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=281053

If you can live with the low-power, they're great cars.

What version 240D? It's gettig harder to find nice earlier W115s to buy, or ones in salvage-yards to supply parts. And many dislike the 'park-bench bumpers fitted to the 74-76 US models. That said, I think the W115 had a slight edge in the quality of interior fittings & hardware.

W123s are more numerous to buy, and find in salvage yards. IMHO, the W123 5-mph bumpers are much more attractive than those of the earlier generation.
Certain common repairs, like heater-blower and oil-filter replacement, is a piece of cake compared to the W115s. However, quality of some interior fittings, mainly in the dash, isn't as good as the 115s. Plastic gloveboxes and heater-controls tend to suffer from heat and age. Also the composition plastic/aluminum radiators on the W123 can fail suddenly at the radiator hose connection and are generally not repairable, compared to the brass/copper radiators used in the W115s.

If you're shopping for a 240D, some simple, common checks on either version are how easy it starts when cold, and oil-pressure reading at idle on a fully warmed-up engine. Timing-chain replacement may be due on high-mileage engines.
Try to avoid very rusty examples. Look for rust in the inner-fenders, floors and rear footwells. The thick rubber undercoating on these cars can conceal rusting until severe damage has occured.
Many water leaks tend to collect at the lowest interior point - under the front seats. Rust here can destroy the rear-floors, seat mountings, and inner sills. I had a 240D where the inner-sill was so bad, one end of the passenger seabelt was only attached to carpet!

Otherwise, be prepared to replace old rubber parts like brake-hoses and motor mounts.

Because of the 240D's low power, the stickshift versions are generlly prefered. Automatics tend to be especially slow, though I have driven a few 240Ds with automatics that I would consider tolerable. Good luck.

Happy Motoring, Mark

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DrDKW

Very concise and informative post Mark, well done.

To the poster: as many have said before elsewhere on this board, a well-maintained specimen in very good current condition specimen is more important than one that has not been as well maintained, yet has every service record from day 1.

And as Mark indicated, be particularly attentive to rust. Mechanical issues can usually be sorted out, but serious body rust issues (especially on a unibody car like the 123) is both dangerous and very expensive or time intensive to repair.

Later 123 240D's (82-83?) had a slight HP increase which may make an auto transmission more tolerable (I own and drive one of these, even though if I had my choice, I'd go for a 4 speed; this one is rust-free so I am hanging onto it)

I'd suggest you try to hold out for one that has had a long-term caring and responsible owner, and not a specimen that's gone through too many owners. Good luck in your search. They don't build them like those older diesels anymore, that's for sure.

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1983 300TD 240K - 1982 240D 215K - 1996 Dodge Cummins 70K

Last Summer I bought my 'keeper' 240D - an '82 stickshift with minimal rust - solid floors, sills, inner fenders and wheel arches. Three quarter-size holes - one under the battery-tray, one below the front bumper and one in the bottom of the right-front fender. One dime-size hole under the trunk-gasket, and a couple pencil eraser size spots under the bottom-strip in a rear-door. Crappy paint on hood. 177K miles.
Still, it was in fantastic shape for a 28 year-old East-Coast car.

The breakdown of what I put into the car over the past year -

Replace cracked windsheild & gasket $269.

Rebuilt alternator $90

Hood-star, master key, 4 exhaust hangers-from dealer $66

Oil & filter, fuel-filters & primer-pump $65

Both driveshaft flex-discs, center support & bearing $170

Rebuilt AC compressor, Filtr-drier, expansion-valve
& 3 cans R12 $300

Two rebuilt CVJ axles $350

Four 195/70R14 Michelin-X tires from Sam's Club - after rebate $300

Three door-stops, one fender-strip, a vintage Blaupunkt radio, and an AC thermostat from Pick-N-Pull $20

Pair of Bilstein front shocks $80

Except for the windsheild, I furnished all the labor.

Total repairs $1740
Price of car, including Va tax $1370

Total cost (so far) for this 240D $3110

This may be fairly typical of the cost to acquire and fix-up a decent 240D that needs some common mechanical repairs.

My cost compares favorably with some 240Ds I've seen advertised as "Mint, Perfect" for $6000 or more. (Plus, I'm selling my previous pair of rustbucket 240Ds to help pay for the repair on this one)

OTOH, if one had to pay a shop for all the work, fix-up costs could more than double!

Still looking for a good navy-blue hood.


Happy Motoring, Mark

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DrDKW