I am starting to get my 6.3 back on the road this weekend,worthwhile mods so far have been the EDIS setup and electric water pump . Next will be urethane swaybar bushes front and rear and a set of 15" Borbet type A's I need another car here Not.. . Although i just spotted a 500SE S1 here with a set of 16" type A's . I have had the MFi pump rebuilt ( no time to do it myself) and the injectors overhauled.
Next on the shoppng list are new injector bases. Friggen expensive items!!.

This Pagaodinos' coupe. it has W109 sway bar with air suspension hold downs but the axle housings have been modified to fit W126 brakes as have the front hubs.
The shocks are Spax adjustables and there is no center spring . he has fitter harder shore rating bushes but is not too happy with them.

Nice to see that Pagodino is progressing with his project. He should also post here.

On my side I finished swapping the rear end and prop shaft and it all works fine now.

I also got the car running pretty well with the fuel & spark megasquirt set-up and I took it to a guy who is very good at fine tuning MS on a dyno. He was impressed by the torque curve in particular. Though I know it is torque that is moving a car, I was myself impressed by the power: 254 hp DIN at the wheels. As a reference, this engine is developing 240 hp at the crank in stock form. This is a stock euro 5.0 long block with AMG replica camshafts and Fuel & Spark Megasquirt management. Below is the dyno run file both in DIN and in SAE forms. New SAE gives lower figures at the wheel than DIN.

The car is running very well. Smooth and powerful. According to the link below, 254hp with a manual trans is equivalent to 300hp at the crank. If that's correct, it's really not bad:

Wheel Horsepower to Crankshaft Horsepower Guestimator

I also attach a picture of the engine in the car.

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5L in W111.jpg (58.3 KB, 107 views)

Almost flat torque curve!. 292ft lbs is pretty good for a 5.0 liter engine too!.

It was the first time the guys at the dyno were having an MB M117 and they really liked it.

I think the tri-Ys really help with the torque curve. They are stock on that engine. Other than that I think EDIS and MS do a big difference. The AMG camshafts may be good for an additional 15 to 20 hp. The rest must be MS and EDIS that may add 10 to 15% both to the the torque and to the power. I'm also using a 4.5 D-jet intake manifold as it was designed as an EFI from the beginning. It may work better for my application than a gutted K-jet intake.

Very cool stuff! Great power numbers...if only I had the $ and skill to drop one in my W114!

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Nathan
'74 280C - gone to a new home for the finishing it deserves.
'64 356SC
'74 914 2.0

Your best bet with a W114 is to start with a 500 SL/C or 560 SL power plant. It will just drop in. Then it's just a matter of putting parts together (mostly from the junkyard if you have D-jet 4.5s lying around), a pair of camshafts and an MS2 system that can be had for fairly cheap. Nothing crazy compared to other builds I've seen on the net, budget and work wise, and that are getting similar power and torque figures in the end.

My next project is to fit a 5.6 engine into a W113 Pagoda. I secured a 120.000 miles engine out of a totalled 560SL for $500. I'm going to fit it with the early 500 euro K-jet and ignition systems out of the 5.0 which is currently in my Coupe, have a euro-style dual exhaust system ala early W126 500 and then play with camshaft timing (with offset woodruff keys) and ignition advance timing. I'm curious on how it will compare on the dyno with my Coupe. I'm ready to bet I will do the same or even better figures on a lower budget and less work.

Gen I Euro 500SEL hot rod: lowered Bilstein suspension; very rare Conchi 2 piece 16x9 lightweight Magnesium Penta style rims; loaded with rare options: gasoline engine factory oil cooler; 2:82 LSD rear; ortho seats; seat warmers. This car has the strongest engine I've had on a V8 Mercedes including my previous 2 Euro 6.3's and a 76 AMG cammed Euro 6.9 wirth AMG rear end; this Euro 500 will light up the tires on FSG, second and even 3rd gear. Don't know what engine mods are there but sure is faster than the Euro 6.9 AMG I had. Corners like is on rails; little body lean and subtle Zender spolier and side flares.

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Check if you have solid lifters through the oil filler cap. If yes it may have some AMG camshafts and more goodies and work. Do you have tri-Ys? If yes, are they cast iron or iron pipes welded together?

Update:

So the car is now flying to the point that the tires have now become the weak point. I have to be careful when I start from a light not to smoke them on dry pavement. On wet I guess I would be spinning up to 3rd or 4th if I was not paying attention. But the main problem is more when I need to stop. The car is getting much faster everywhere so it also needs to stop much faster and I ended up skidding several times. My brakes are the same as on 6.3s fitted with carbon kevlar pads for street use, and they are not over powered yet. My problem is grip.

I currently have Vederstein classics 205/70-VR14 on it. They really made a huge difference compared to the Khumo solus 195/75-R14 I had on it before: more grip, quieter etc. They were excellent with the 3.5 engine. But I guess now they're having too much on their plate.

I brought back a set of four of these W126 15x7 steel rims from Europe last time I went there and I'm thinking of fitting some 225/60-VR15 tires. I had a set on a 3.5 Coupe I have in Europe and they clear the W111 Coupe chassis. I hope this is also true for earlier cars, but I don't see any difference in the chassis/wheel wells areas all along the Coupe production.

Tirerack is listing three of them: Tire Search Results

Two are all seasons, one is summer. I've been reading around the net and summer tires are preferred to all seasons when it comes to performance. This was also mentioned to us by a tire guy who came to do a presentation at an MBCA starfest. So I'm now leaning towards the BFGoodrich g-Force Sport rahter than Kumho Ecsta ASX or LX Platinium, also because I read the BFGoodrich had a better side wall rigidity in curves. Also in DC, we only have a few weeks of cold weather round the year.

Opinions are welcome, keeping in mind that performance is more important than comfort in my case, up to some extent.

Thanks all in advance.

I want to see pics of this Mercedes you describe as having "traction issues"

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RIP: 79 450SEL
2002 E430 4matic (212,000km)
2002 ML500 'sport'

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I have posted video links earlier in this thread: The Outlaws of Gruppe B

I also posted a picture of the engine bay below the dyno charts here : The Outlaws of Gruppe B

No tri-y's, just dual euro logs all the way to the rear on stock MB exhaust (kidneys+rear muffler); no emissions gear anywhere. Can't tell about the cams but when I had valve stem seals put on didn't see any AMG markings on the cams which are just beautifully shiny preserved due to the Mobil 1 this car has had all along. Because of the great torque of the engine I really suspect big jugs (pistons) and maybe non-AMG cams done outside AMG by German tuners?. My 48K original miles Euro 500SL has cast iron tri-y's and the 245HP engine but is not near as wild as this car is; just a mild touch of the gas pedal and it jumps out so I never use more than maybe 15% gas pedal travel.

I think that if you had solid lifters you would know it as you would need to adjust valve clearance regularly.

Your 2:82 rear end may be a big part of the way the car goes. You should put it on a dyno.

Yes,that low ratio rear end is the big difference although I have stripped a 500SEL which had a ECE engine and 10.5 pistons. A huge power increase over the regular 500's. Carlos,your engine number would reveal a lot if fed into the Daimler WIS system.