Does anyone have a good manual or tips.
I have done this before on a 6 cylinder years back, so I know the basics...I believe.
Is it wise to remove the tensioner before 'cutting' the old chain? I guess yes.

No need to.
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/M117TimingChain

The m117 and m116 are nearly identical aside from stroke length. The m116 has a shorter chain but the process is the same.

__________________
Current:
2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee"
2018 Durango R/T

Previous:
1972 280SE 4.5
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi"
1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k

Thanks Tomguy....
no need to ....meaning... don't take the tensioner out when changing the chain?
I'll install a new tensioner anyhow after the change.
Martin

It's best to replace the chain guides first and check the offset. Then you can determine if the chain needs to be replaced. In any event, replace the top inside left guide which is the one that breaks and causes engine destruction.

__________________
Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

my guides are all in aluminum/rubber...so there was the recommendation NOT to change them.
What does a worn guide do to the timing? Doesn't the tensioner adjust the slack? Martin

Actually, I should have written to check the chain offset, set the chain makes on the front cam towers to zero degrees and check the crank offset alos in degrees.

The aluminum guides do wear, the sacrificial rubber actually, and these don't break the way the plastic ones do if the chain wear is excessive.

Only so much slack can be taken up by the tensioner.

__________________
Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

Thanks. I did check the offset. It reads a bout 8 degrees.
guide rails (in my case the aluminum/rubber ones): of course do the guide rails wear...the chain is carving into the guides....this means that the tensioner pin (i guess the pin is pushing against the big guide rail with some spring pressure and more important -oilpressure?
Well, yes there might be an 'end' of how far the pin of the tensioner can reach out in order to offset the carvings of the guides but in reality do you think this is happening?

The main purpose of the tensioner is so that when you shut the engine off, if it moves backwards due to compression (which it often does), you don't skip a tooth on timing. The secondary purpose is to keep the chain quiet especially on startup. if you have a little startup rattle the tensioner may be bad. I didn't replace mine when doing the chain because it still felt fairly tight after 145k. My rails had slight wear at that mileage. I actually tested, since I bought plastic replacements. The new rails had slightly MORE latent cam timing than my original aluminum/rubber rails did even though they were a little grooved. You MAY be lucky and be able to find replacement rubber. I doubt the classic center carries it but you never know.

__________________
Current:
2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee"
2018 Durango R/T

Previous:
1972 280SE 4.5
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi"
1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k

I changed the chain tonight- 1 hour- I had no helper but it was relatively easy with 3 pliers and lots of clamping. I also changed the tensioner. The old one was still working but it had some restriction in the pin. The pin of the new one was much smoother to push in by hand.
I was checking the 'stretch again with the new chain (which should be ZERO): stretch was around 3-4 degrees after TDC.
How is this possible with a new chain?
Does anyone know?
Martin

Martin, accumulated tolerance in older gears and even a new chain (.0001 per link accumulates, linear to axial error), Dial it in with the offset keys, lots of rotating the motor from the crank pulley and radiator out. I'll let 2-3 deg retard slide. Check cam advance/retard characteristics from a Hot Rod motor perspective. They get serious into pulsing gas physics, how is the valve rebuild going?

Chain:
Are you saying that I should do offset keys or would you just live with the 3- 4 degrees offset?
Airvalves: yes, I am making progress. 2 stk valves are tested airtight!

I also had 4 degrees retard at the crank on the passenger side (LHD) with new chain, guides and tensioner. I corected it with a 2 degree offset woodruff key.

I measured retard of 3-4 degrees on the passenger side- YES.
However the right side and left side cams seem to line up perfectly.
The woodruff keys go between BOTH the cam shafts/sprockets?
Where do you get these keys?
Why did you use 2 degree keys and not more?

Martin

The 2 degree Woodruff keys would offset 4 degree retard reading at crank?
2 degree at cam = 4 degree at crank?
Is this correct...so I'd order 2 degree Woodruff keys with a 4 degree offset?

one of the lobes is damaged and I built a spring compressor from the pictures I received and pulled the rocker- rocker is damaged too and I'll replace it leaving the cam shaft as a future project.
Here are some pics.

Attached Thumbnails