My Barn find- 1967 250S - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

meltedpanda · #16 10-10-2010, 08:10 PM

wow , nice find, you got me beat on being out of service, my 220 barn find was at rest for just shy of 10 yeRS, but I got a better price, lol title change $12.00

You are starting out with a far better car, Good luck , let us know if you need help, and looking forward to your posts

mercmad6.3 · #17 10-10-2010, 08:32 PM

Don't piss around with the calipers, either get them rebuilt or buy new ones.
But when it comes to brakes Start at the master cylinder with a new one ( kits are available but they cost more than whole new cylinder ) . Get the front calipers rebuilt or replaced,get the 4 discs remachined or replaced and renew ALL of the brake hoses because the cause of the locking caliper was probably a shot hose anyway.
Throw the tires away and replace all of the fluids in the car.
drop the tank and get it cleaned ,replace ALL the fuel lines and flush the steering.
once you have this done the car will close to road worthy .
After discussions with folks recently i have come to the conclusion that there are lots of Barn find mercs still out there but each and everyone requires at least $4000 spent on it to make it reliable.
Now if i could just find that elusive SSK and get it running for $4000 i would be happy...

drbrandini · #18 10-10-2010, 08:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by meltedpanda

wow , nice find, you got me beat on being out of service, my 220 barn find was at rest for just shy of 10 yeRS, but I got a better price, lol title change $12.00

You are starting out with a far better car, Good luck , let us know if you need help, and looking forward to your posts

that's a tuff price to beat! nice work!

I'm ready for some help!

So far I have soaked the cylinders in WD-40 overnight, removed cam cover and put some oil on the cam lobes, I tried to turn the car over today manually by hand without the spark plugs in....no luck

I couldn't find a good place on the crank to turn so I used the power steering pulley which Is not frozen. I could see the belt stretching as I put tension on it but the crank wasn't budging...I didn't put everything I had into and didn't use a breaker bar but i did put a little torque on it....I sprayed some wd-40 where the crank meets the block since it looked a little corroded. Any suggestions...I sure hope she isn't siezed...(the top end looks great, see photos) please give me some good news I don't know much about this engine.

Thank you all for the compliments and suggestions,
B-

meltedpanda · #19 10-10-2010, 09:05 PM

you may need a stronger solvent ,or spray I have seen some use keroseene, give it time, dont force her. You really will need to get a big socket on the flywheel bolt
dont use the cam bolts!
Make sure she is out of gear
read here of my exploits, may get some tips
1971 220

Fulcrum525 · #20 10-10-2010, 09:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mercmad6.3

Now if i could just find that elusive SSK and get it running for $4000 i would be happy...

I still have hope that someone somewhere will come across an SSKL in a barn.....

JeffreyNMemphis · #21 10-10-2010, 09:11 PM

I put transmission fluid in the spark plug holes and let it sit for a week. Then I used a breaker bar on the crank pulley to turn it.

mercmad6.3 · #22 10-10-2010, 11:08 PM

my favorite and one which works everytime for me is a mixture of 50% Brake fluid and 50% acetone. You need at least 500mls of this. I pour it in each plug hole and leave over night. The next day I put a 27mm socket on the crank nut and gently rock it with a breaker bar until the pistons move. I have never had to repeat the pouring of more fluid down the holes as even the most seized up engine has come free. But if needs be,do as above and add trans fluid and let it soak for another day or so .
Give each rocker arm on the valve springs a tap with a hammer to make sure the valves are free and not stuck in the head.

wbain5280 · #23 10-10-2010, 11:10 PM

The crank bolt is 27 mm. Rock the crank back and forth with a breaker bar. I suspect the cyls are rusty. Good luck with it.

t walgamuth · #24 10-11-2010, 05:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mercmad6.3

my favorite and one which works everytime for me is a mixture of 50% Brake fluid and 50% acetone. You need at least 500mls of this. I pour it in each plug hole and leave over night. The next day I put a 27mm socket on the crank nut and gently rock it with a breaker bar until the pistons move. I have never had to repeat the pouring of more fluid down the holes as even the most seized up engine has come free. But if needs be,do as above and add trans fluid and let it soak for another day or so .
Give each rocker arm on the valve springs a tap with a hammer to make sure the valves are free and not stuck in the head.

I'd be reluctant to use this concoction. I'd use tranny fluid.

mercmad6.3 · #25 10-11-2010, 05:51 AM

Why? it's simple ,Cheap and it works better than anything else you will find.

Quote:

Penetrating Oils Compared
>
>Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break
>out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They arranged asubjective
>test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque
>required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.
>
>Penetrating oil ..... Average load
>
>None .................... 516 pounds
>
>WD-40 .................. 238 pounds
>
>PB Blaster ..............214 pounds
>
>Liquid Wrench ...... 127 pounds
>
>Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
>
>ATF-Acetone mix... 53 pounds
>
>The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic
>transmission fluid and acetone.
>
>Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this
>one particular test. A local machinist group mixed up a batch and allnow
>use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" isabout
>as
>good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.
>

The moral here is, "the advice i give is free,it's the parts that cost and how you use that advice is up to you regards to how much you want to spend ".

drbrandini · #26 10-11-2010, 09:18 AM

thanks guys I appreciate the tips...I have a couple of quarts of ATF sitting around the shop so I'll give that shot overnight....silly questions: How will I get it out once I pour it in? --I'm thinking that there will be too much to burn off IF i get it running right?

From what I can see inside the spark plug holes it looks pretty good inside.

The radiator appears to be empty and have a little corrosion inside, I'm going to go ahead and flush it out while I'm at it.

Mike D · #27 10-11-2010, 10:03 AM

Oh don't worry! Once the cylinders are free and you spin the engine over using the starter, it'll come out!

I'd wear a raincoat for this step.

The engine will smoke furiously when you first start it. It takes a couple of hours to get all the fluid burnt out of the engine and exhaust but it will clear.

drbrandini · #28 10-11-2010, 10:26 AM

ha, that makes sense!

thorsen · #29 10-11-2010, 10:38 AM

You might want to put a water pump on your shopping list. In the second picture you posted it looks like the weep hole is weeping.

daw_two · #30 10-11-2010, 10:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drbrandini

thanks guys I appreciate the tips...I have a couple of quarts of ATF sitting around the shop so I'll give that shot overnight....silly questions: How will I get it out once I pour it in? --I'm thinking that there will be too much to burn off IF i get it running right?

Crank it with the car sitting OUTSIDE!!!

You don't want ATF dripping from your garage ceiling for the next 3 weeks!!!