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#1
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Rear end sag on a w115 300d
I have a 75 w115 300d and the back end is low. I replaced the shocks will billsteins, replaced the springs and installed the largest spring shims.
Any suggestions for getting the rear end up higher? I do have probably 100lbs of tools and misc stuff in the trunk, but it's still is way lower in the back than it should be. Also, the tires seem to be wearing uneven, so the wheel camber is likely off. Do you have any suggestions for parts (besides shocks / springs / shims) that may be worn out and causing the rear end ride height to be way lower than the front? |
#2
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I had that same problem. It would be about 2-3 inches lower in the back at the bumper using the relative kneecap height scale when fueling up. As you mentioned, with anything else in the trunk it would get very saggy.
I fixed that problem with a $10 solution. Spring lifters you can get at any auto store. They're typically twist in on the inboard side with a large socket and it will level out. |
#3
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My 115 was the same way. I installed the spring helper things in the rear springs and now its fine, even with a full tank of fuel.
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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon 1979 280CE 225,200 miles 1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles 1976 240D 190,000 miles 1979 300TD 220,000 GONE but not forgotten 1976 300D 195,300 miles 1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg |
#4
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Just make sure not to put all the tools on the rear end of the trunk. These models are known to sag a bit after a while.. Just might help a bit..
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'76 300D '82 230CE '84 300DT '91 300D 2.5 '86 300D 5 speed '86 250D 5 speed '90 300E 24v '88 560SEC 300TE euro 5 speed 91 350SD http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...d6605222-1.jpg |
#5
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And the car goes from a painful 45lb/hp to 46lb/hp...
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#6
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Are these types things what your talking about? Any suggestions on what works best?
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#7
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MB has spacers to remedy the problem. They come in 2 or 3 different thicknesses. Fastlane carries them or did.
http://www.allpartsexpress.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=1973-MERCEDES--BENZ---0d--/l4_--.--l_diesel-Rear--End--/--Suspension&yearid=1973%40%401973&makeid=MERCEDES+BENZ%40%40MERCEDES+BENZ%40%40X&engineid=1192845%40%40220D+%2FL4_2.2L_DIESEL%40%40220D&catid=Rear+End+%2F+Suspension&subcatid=Rear%20Coil%20Spring%20Shim&mode=PA The problem with using the spacers you show is they remove two coils from the flex. This can lead to spring failure and a harsher ride. Worn sub frame mounts or differential mounts can also cause the problem. Last edited by Mike D; 10-25-2010 at 03:00 PM. |
#8
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The spacers you show are harder to install than the types spoken of earlier. If you did not know what they were when you picked one up it would be hard to tell what they were for.
But if you tell any large auto parts counter man you need the twist in spring helpers he will likely know what you are talking about. |
#9
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I put in ones like these and they aren't ideal but so far so good. If you've already used the proper MB spring shims a few extra bucks to try these can't hurt.
http://www.amazon.com/Superior-18-8001-Twist-Front-Spacer/dp/B00029K21G |
#10
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It seems to me you guys are missing the point here. The shocks, springs, and spring shims have been replaced. These band-aid ideas with cheezy things that we used as kids due to lack of funds are not going to solve this problem properly. Mike_D is right. The problem is probably with the sub-carrier mounts (front, rear, or both), or the trailing arm bushings. Of course it could any combination of all.
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Don't Chrome them; polish them |
#11
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Better check the Diff Mount first
If the middle triangular plate has become separated from the outer support frame, this will cause quite a substantial drop of the body relative to the wheels in the rear.
Part is reasonably cheap and is easy to replace as well. Evaluation is easily done just by looking at the rear of the differential from under the rear bumper. You don't even have to jack the vehicle to see it. |
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