There is one open hose/line I couldn't find a home for.
The line is coming from down between generator and waterpump. I think it is connected to the engine housing.
It is a smaller plastic line with a short rubber hose with clamps...after 2 years I can't remember where this goes. The open end is at the PS pump where the hoses attach the pump body.
See picture.

Attached Thumbnails

 

Looks like the gas tank vent tube that should be connected to the front (timing cover? block? not 100% sure which it is but you'll see it there). It looks like it may have come disconnected from the other end of the line right at the factory connector.

__________________
Current:
2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee"
2018 Durango R/T

Previous:
1972 280SE 4.5
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi"
1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k

The adjustment of your 3rd rod looks OK. I wouldn't touch the trans rod until you test drive the car and see how the trans responds.

Your dizzy may be off by one tooth, as normally at 6deg ATDC you should be in the middle of the adjustment range.

No idea what that hose is, but I'm not familiar witu US versions.

Well I kind of noticed that aligning cylinder 1 TDC and the rotating distributor arm with the housing I was way off proper timing..actually I was at the middle of adjustment.
With 'off one tooth' you mean that the distributor is not set correctly relative to the engine gear?
Would you change/correct this? Is this easy or is it a pain?
What do you think of the 13"Hg vacuum reading at idle and at 6 degrees ? Any concern here?
Isn't the correct reading 17"Hg plus?
What also bothers me is how long it takes until vacuum was built up. Took a long time like 20-30 seconds. Isn't this a sign of a leak?

You might have a vac leak or not. Mine was around 14" or so. I could turn the aux air screw in to take it to 20" but if I did, I would suck up ATF from the ruptured diaphragm in the trans... Yours needing time to "Build" sounds like either the booster or locks.

__________________
Current:
2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee"
2018 Durango R/T

Previous:
1972 280SE 4.5
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi"
1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k

Yes, with 'off one tooth' I mean that the rotor may not be set correctly relative to the engine gear. It's just a matter of undoing completely the bolt you loosen to rotate the dizzy, pull the dizzy and engage it back after having rotatated the rotor one tooth further, cw in your case. Note the position of the rotor before doing this as the theeth are not cut straight and the rotor will rotate when you pull the dizzy. You may have to try it several times. I would check advance at 1500 and 3000 before doing that though.

I'm not really conversant with vacuum values. I know this was used a lot some years ago to tune engines and values can vary a lot with adjustments. I think Graham on this board is good at that. you should search his older posts and contact him.

If you can stall your engine by screing in your idle air control screw I wouldn't be too worried about vacuum leaks. But donuts between air plenum and runners and vacuum lines and boots do not age well on these engines. On later versions it's even worse.

My door vacuum system still leaks big time (*had no time to attack this yet) but this might be a reason why the vacuum is always 'leaking'...it is a small line though and a check valve. I'll measure the vacuum level there next time I'll start the engine. Martin

Thanks GGR, I'll check advance setting at 1500 and 3000 rpm.
The trouble is a bit that I just have a laser tachometer and need the same spot for checking engine speed as I need to check the degrees at crank with the test light. Any ideas how to get to the higher revs and check timing?
Martin

You were right. It was a vent line. I found the connecting line on the left side, thanks.

I was testing vacuum today at the door lock line. I measured 10" Hg only.
And the same thing...it took 30 seconds to build up the vacuum.
When enginge started it was only 7" Hg after 30 second and Hg improved over the first minutes after the engine started.
This doesn't sound great?

I have found the rubber cover between radiator and fender on the right side.
It is a 'box' with some aluminum cooling fins ...with some lines/wires coming in from the fender side. Against the radiator there is a bigger plastic screw. I guess
that is the ECU...the potentiometer?
What exactly is this thing doing?
I 'll fiddle around and see if I can get the rpms maxed out at idle and this is the optimum for fuel mixture at idle?

I measured now 10" Hg at the port for the vacuum for locks at idle (while I had seen 13"Hg at the line for the distributor). Does this sound alarming to you?

Listen to the engine when you measure its speed at 3000rpm and then bring it back there by ear when you measure advance.

ECU means Electronic Control Unit and on your car it's the whole box you describe with fins and it controls injection according to a set of information it receives from various sensors: water and air temperature, throttle position and manifold pressure (vacuum). According to this info it determines the amount of gas needed and sends the order to the injectors to open for a shorter or a longer duration. Injectors are just on/off electromagnetic valves that do not modulate the quantity of fuel they allow. So the quantity of fuel depends on the duration they remain opened and this is controlled by an impulse sent by the ECU. Fuel pressure is important, as not enough pressure means less fuel squirted for a given duration and too much pressure ends up in too rich a mixture. This is why you need to measure the fuel pressure before adjusting the rest of the injection: if pressure is off your adjustments will be inaccurate.

That big screw on the side of the ECU adjusts richness at idle. You should play with it after you made sure fuel pressure is between 28 and 30 psi (mine prefers 30).

Understood, where is the best spot to measure fuel pressure? need to find a pressure gauge and tap into a line I guess?