Hi, bear with me, as it's my first go at replacing bearings... got noticeable play in one of my front bearings, tried adjusting it out but no joy so have a new set. Got the hub off no problem and no stuck races etc on the spindle but can't get the rear grease seal to budge from the hub. Any tips/tricks/particular tools to getting it off?

cheers,
Alex

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1993 320TE M104
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past:

1983 230E W123 M102
1994 E300D S124 OM606 (x2)
1967 250SE W108 M129
1972 280se 3.5 W108 M116
1980 280SE W116 M110
1980 350SE W116 M116
1992 300E W124 M103
1994 E280 W124 M104
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"music and women I cannot but give way to, whatever my business" -Pepys

I usually pry it out with a big screw driver and install a new one.

Screwdriver will work or a long brass drift punch through the center to hit it from the back side will also get it loose. You may have a challenge getting the old race out of the hub...a very small lip is revealed on the race so it is hard to knock the race out. Usually need a press and close fitting bushing to catch the inside lip of the race to push it out evenly. Same for installation. Don't even try to split the race with a chisel...steel is way too hard and all you will do is ruin the chisel. I hate MB wheel bearing replacement, that's why I'll pay someone else to do it. Packing them is OK, but when they need replaced...not in my job description.

The link below is for 113's, but should be very similar. Much of this photo essay is JA17's handiwork.

http://www.sl113.org/wiki/DriveShaft/RearWheelBearings

The OP has trouble with the front bearings and seals.

Use some freeze spray, Loctite makes some, and spray the metal seal cup. Use a large long screwdriver to force the bearing out, as written earlier.

Pack the bearing with synthetic grease, MB has some, I like the red Mobil 1 synthetic grease in the tube used for grease fittings. While you're in there, check the rubber sleves at both inner control arm mounts. Grease all the grease points and if you have problems greasing them, use a heat gun, industrial strength blow drier, to liquify the congealed grease inside the fitting. That method works great and you don't have to take everything apart.

Grease the driveshaft and both swing arm joints.

When you mount the front hub on the spindle, allow for some loosness in the mechanism. The outer triangular shaped washed should turn.

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Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

Don't do anything. The seal will come out with the bearing when you drive the race out of the hub.

I agree with Chas H. If you have a good set of drift punches, you can drive out the rear race. It's not difficult, but take your time and feel with the punch the edge of the hub and the bearing. You won't get much surface on the race, but enough to drive it out.

When replacing the new race, use the old race to pound on. Once the new race is flush with the back of the hub, you'll need to insert it a little further to allow space for the seal. At this time you can gently use the drift punch directly on the outside edges of the race. Insert it up to a lip inside the hub, which you will feel when contact is made. Don't worry about damaging the race; it's much harder than any drift punch.

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Don't Chrome them; polish them