The bushing inside the chrome nut @ end of gear shifter is shot...wobbles around like crazy

Any tips on removing this nut from the gear stick so I can get a new on there? does the large black plastic shifter handle come off? twist?

I can get the whole shifter off by unscrewing this nut but not sure where to go from there

I've been quoted $67 for a new chrome nut with bushing... I'm checking if the bushing is available seperately..

any way for me to access the parts program for w108? is it something i can download?

any advise would be great thanks

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1968 280se Inline 6
Anthracite Grey - Socal

so the bushing is available seperately so i've ordered that. now i just need to work out how to get the nut off to install it properly...

unless you can push the bushing over the round pivot point but i doubt it.

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1968 280se Inline 6
Anthracite Grey - Socal

bushing arrived and it does not seem to be the part I need. i expect a halfdome shaped soft-ish bushing to fit inside the nut but I received a hard black plastic piece that is nothing like what it needs. will have to get in touch with classic center on monday and try and work out if the piece I need is available. not sure what happened there

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1968 280se Inline 6
Anthracite Grey - Socal

Neither the nut or knob comes off the lever .
There should be a rubber bush that goes on the rounded part under the nut # A111 268 03 92 . it has to pushed onto the swivel ball .
In the column itself you will need to replace the two pads # A111 997 12 40 X2 in the top of the 'bolt action" ,and that requires removal of the steering wheel.

Great! thanks!

I have found the rounded under part on a shifter diagram I found online, so ill sent that to the classic center for reference...dont know how they got it wrong.

I'll get those 2 pads too. i assume they are soft also and disintegrate over time?

I'll finally get to put on the new steering ring I have too

good timing

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1968 280se Inline 6
Anthracite Grey - Socal

New part arrived and it looks correct... will get some pics up once its swapped out.

I also grabbed those 2 bushings for under the steering wheel also

Any tips on removing the steering wheel or is it pretty straight forward? Anything to be careful of?

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1968 280se Inline 6
Anthracite Grey - Socal

Place the front wheels in the straight ahead position. Take the steering pad off. Inside is a large nut holding the wheel to the shaft. Remove that nut then remove the washer underneath. replace the nut so it is on by a few threads . Now, grab the steering wheel and pull it towards you while wobbling it. It will come loose . You remove the nut and the wheel simply comes off. Always put the nut on so you don't lose some teeth when the pops off.

Great thanks for the tips. just what i needed

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1968 280se Inline 6
Anthracite Grey - Socal

Here is a link to a great thread on the M-100 board on how to change out the column shifter bushings. There are lots of pictures and a really good explanation.

http://www.m-100.cc/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=5960

John

After removing the wheel pad it seems the nut I need to remove is recessed in the steering wheel hub piece a few inches... is this the nut that needs to be removed to get the whole assembly off? any advise on how to get to the nut?

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1968 280se Inline 6
Anthracite Grey - Socal

well after unbolting the wheel it gives access to the nut, but is it better to remove this large nut with the wheel still on so you have leverage to get the whole assembly off to get to the shifter bushing?

Also any advise on removing this tight little screws that are about to strip if I use a screwdriver? they dont budge and if I try any harder the screws will be useless...what the best way to get these out? I have a new horn ring to install

thanks!

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1968 280se Inline 6
Anthracite Grey - Socal

any tips on getting these screws out? I'd like to get it sorted tomorrow

cheers

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1968 280se Inline 6
Anthracite Grey - Socal

If you're afraid you may strip them, get an "impact driver." It has a 3/8" square drive (like a ratchet wrench) attached to a cylinder. You get a phillips bit, insert the tool into the screw, and while holding it twisted (the whole cylinder twists while leaving the bit stationery), smack the back of it with a 5 lb. hammer. The tools converts the torque of a hammer hitting it into a twisting motion all while pressing into the screw (remember you hit it with a hammer). You want the wheel, or whatever is holding the screw, to be on something solid.

Best Regards,

David

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2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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might be time to go and buy one!

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1968 280se Inline 6
Anthracite Grey - Socal