Graham
I am sure this might work.

Pertronix is claiming that Ignitor II would be safer compared to Ignitor I:
"The Ignitor II (p/n 91885) has a built-in safety feature that shuts down
the electronics if the key is left on without the engine running"

Ignitor II (p/n 91885) is $ 118 versus Ignitor I (p/n 1885) costs $85.
What do you say?

I have Ignitor I in my car. I used a two prong clip instead of full circle so I could easily slide off wire from coil when I loosened the nut a bit. I haven't had any trouble with the burning issue, but then again, I grew up with people telling me that if you left keys on ignition (position 2), it could burn the coil. Never sure how much that was true, but I have always been careful with leaving cars on ignition.

Regarding coil, I would recommend getting the flamethrower coil if you don't have a tach(ometer) to worry about. It bypasses switchgear altogether and eliminates one less thing in the whole ignition system. Plus I think the coil voltage is higher (40,000 for basic flamethrower).

I can make pictures of my set up tomorrow or so.

Bert

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'70 111 280SE/c 3.5 (4 spd manual) - sold
'63 MGB
'73 MGBGT V8

Did they tell you that the Ignitor II is not suitable for use with MB type ignition cables?

The Ignitor I is the proper unit. Model 1885. And that is what the Pertronix site lists for V-8 MB engines of your vintage.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

Hi Bert, this sounds great.
I'll go with the same unit then Pertronix 1, 1885. I think 1885 needs a 1.5 ohm coil

Pictures would really help me a lot because I am new to the ignition...not familiar with all terms.
What is the switch gear for example which is eliminated? I think i know the ignition coil which sits on the left side of the engine.

No...they didn't. They told me I can go with Pertronix 1 or 2! and should go with Pert 2 and a 0.6 ohm coil if I want the piece in mind not burning the unit while key is in 'on' ...seems to be wrong.

Maybe they have changed their mind? The guy I have spoken to there is:

Marvin Grebow Jr.
PerTronix Inc.
Technical Department Ext. 1030
marving@pertronix.com

He is a tech guy.

On this page, they specify the 1885 (IGN-I)and the 91885 (IGN-II) but have asterisks against the IGN-II saying
"** NOTE: The Ignitor II cannot be used with Mercedes Benz solid core wires. If you have those wires please use the standard Ignitor"

Most of us have maintained the copper solid core wires, so based on the above used the IGN-I.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

Here are pictures of my setup. First one shows whole setup. Second one is a close up of the Flamethrower coil and where I tapped the 12V main for the coil.

Third is an inside view of the distributor.

Procedure is pretty simple:

Basically, points and condenser need to be removed from the distributor.

Remove the green wire going to the distributor and hang it somewhere out of the way.

Follow Petronic installation instructions for putting Ignitor in distributor. Take your time. In case of doubt, reread instructions. Don't force anything. All should fit well, albeit a bit snug.

The red and black wire from Ignitor go to + and - connectors of Flamethrower coil, respectively.

Tap full 12 V just before the first resistor where it is still 12 V. You can find out by simply measuring with a multimeter where you get 12V when you put the car on contact/ignition (position 2). As mentioned before, I put a horeshoe connector on the main 12V line so I can disconnect it from the coil to prevent Ignitor burning.

Amd that's it. You just need to recheck your timing, but even that was not far off in mine after the change.

Unlike Graham, I did not add any extra grounding. All worked fine as is. You may have to extend the standard wires from the Petronix. I bought mine slightly used from a fellow forum member who had already nicely done the extension and put the tube around it.

Again, I can highly recommend it, especially if you don't have a tachometer that needs its special non-12V signal feed. I still have to fix that on mine (some day...).

Good luck,

Bert

Attached Thumbnails

     

__________________
'70 111 280SE/c 3.5 (4 spd manual) - sold
'63 MGB
'73 MGBGT V8

Hi Bert, thanks so much for the pictures....pictures tell more than 1000 words...

I think I get it. I really looks straight forward.
Some questions remain
1) You say you took out a 'condenser' from the distributor...I don't see any condenser in my distributor..there are only ignition points- see picture

2) Do you still run a ground from distributor body to the ground connector left of radiator (deeper down...that is where I take my signal for dwell reading)?

3) I am intending putting a switch under the dash for the times when I am working on the car. It happens too often that I am working and have key in position 2.

4) I was told to remove the 'switch gear' and I just don't know which part is called switchgear. Do you know

Attached Thumbnails

 

1) MB recommended removal of condenser - can't recall details, but some cars have them, some don't If you don't have one, don't remove it

2) Pertronix recommend a ground wire from distributor body. Some cars don't have one. If you already have one, keep it.

3) Switchgear, is the MB name for the transistor ignition module (It is described in the M117 engine manual). I don't know where it is on your car, but it is usually in front wheel well or inside engine compartment somewhere near the coil and resistors.

Sjefke has provide info on using Pertronix 1885 plus coil to replace both points and switchgear. Probably a good choice but not absolutely necessary

I used the 1885 to just replace the points. I have a Flamethrower coil, but because car runs so well, can't see a reason to install it and eliminate the switchgear (which seems a much heavier duty part than the tiny Pertronix. Maybe modern electronics are just that much smaller and don't need cooling?) But, I would go sjefkes route if my switchgear failed.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

Martin,

1) I had a remnant of a condenser in my distributor. I took it out because it was nonfunctional anyway (wire had been cut).

2) I did not see a distributor ground wire on my distributor. I only had the green wire coming out. Are you talking about the green wire that goes to the plastic junction/screw terminal to the left of the radiator (sitting in car, facing to the front)? If so, that is the wire that goes to the switch gear junction terminal.

3) I guess you are planning to run a wire all the way back from the Ignitor to the dash (and back) if you plan to put one under the dash (?). I would probably put a switch near the coil so there is less wiring and a cleaner more compact setup.

4) The switchgear is the big gray block with cooling ribs on it down to the left of the radiator (facing forward from driver seat) just like Graham said. I did not remove the switchgear. It is still in my car, all hooked up, but it is not connected to distributor or coil anymore. I left wires in place so I can always revert to a non-flamethrower setup.

Good luck,

Bert

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'70 111 280SE/c 3.5 (4 spd manual) - sold
'63 MGB
'73 MGBGT V8

Thanks Graham and Bert!

I slowly get the picture.
to 2) I will check this junction screw terminal in the location you are describing (left side down beside the radiator) I think I have this green wire if this connects directly to the 'zebra' wire from the ignition contact point?
This wire then splits right after the distributor and one part screws into the distr. housing (thought this is ground?), the other wire goes back to the location you are talking about and this junction terminal (there are several wires) is the location I am picking up the signal for my dwell/tach meter.
I'll see where the switch gear is.

Sorry I am still very innocent and don't quite understand the electrical part of the ignition fully but want to learn.
What is the relationship between the coil and the switchgear. Can you explain a bit how the ignition works?
to 3) I was thinking the dash would be better as there is a direct relationship to the key 2 position?..which is the trouble maker. Could also be a quick anti theft switch.
Of course the more direct location is at the new coil.

Best way to learn about the system is to read the workshop manual sections related to the ignition system completely from A to Z and then again. Also check forum postings on diagnosing ignition problems. Some have very good summary descriptions, but still read the official story also in tandem.

Mercedes used a relatively complicated system with resistors and transistor/switch gear to reduce the voltage over the points in order to reduce point burn-in and wear. Pretty advanced, but it makes for a non-conventional debugging related to voltages wrt point operation. It also means, that the MB coil is different (uses different voltage) than your "standard" coils like the flamethrower that work on 12V.

The Ignitor eleminates the points and is its own switch for controlling the coil. So if you want to keep the MB coil (like Graham did), you need the switchgear system still for operating/supplying correct voltage to the MB coil, and all you do is change the input to the switchgear from the points to the Ignitor. If you do what I did and change the MB coil to Flamethrower, you don't need the switchgear, because the coil now uses a 12V supply.

This is at least what I understood, but I am not a pro on it at all like some of the other members.

Good luck,

Bert

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'70 111 280SE/c 3.5 (4 spd manual) - sold
'63 MGB
'73 MGBGT V8

I was experiencing smoke when I drove the car from a start. I might never have looked back before...It was a nice day and I clearly saw a gray blueish smoke puff. What does this mean?

I received a new copper bushing for the distributor from Benz Dr mid of last year but couldn't install unfortunately. I didn't go for the Pertronix and still have the points
Now as I have changed the cylinder heads because one vlave guide came out...causing the smoke.. (I am about to finish this cylinder head swap) the distributor is out and I'd love to change the bearing /bushing now to get rid of the axial play.
Can someone ... Benz Dr... give me a hint how to change this bushing?

Martin

You might think about converting to a FORD EDIS, Electronic Distributor, that uses a trigger wheel and no mechanical distributor.

EDIS Ignition Control

Tailor your own package

Someone I know has a '62 220SE Coupe with an MB 5.0 engine with Megasquirt and EDIS.

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Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.