Since my car is on the road and I have adjusted the rear axle height to 0 degree camber.. (height was lower before) ..and height seems to be correct now...
I have this awful loud noise when I make right turns at the left rear wheel.

I crawled underneath and saw that the inner side of the aluminum wheel is scratched..It must touch the wheel house at every right turn.

I saw that the read axle sides are no the same left and right:
left side has less clearance to the wheel well (distance rim edge to sheetmetal wheel well) than the right side.
Left wheel is located further back than right side wheel.
Can anyone help me correct the rear wheels?

update:
I removed the wheel and there are the grindings. I'll attach the picture.
Then I was thinking why it didn't occur with the steel wheels?
I measured and the steel rims are less deep, 7mm less deep to be precise.
So these 7mm make the difference.
I don't know how to solve the issue really.

I have the idea to put a 5mm shim between axle and wheel in order to avoid the scratching.
What do you think?
This is in order to gain some time with solving the geometry problems I am having.

For my understanding how the forces get translated from wheels to the frame:
I guess that wheel forces go through #120 left and right side to the frame?
How can the position of the wheels relative to the frame be adjusted?

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Attached Files

rear axle. pdf.pdf (74.4 KB, 148 views)

Do you know for what Mercedes your aluminum wheels are intended for? You can get spacers for your car. They are usually around $100 for a set of two with extended bolts. If you are going to use spacers double check the fender/tire clearance as you might start rubbing there.
It doesn't look you are rubbing a lot, so you might just as well get away with using a 2mm spacer. With 2mm spacers you can use your stock bolts.

If going around turns makes it worse, what's the condition of your rear trailing arm bushings, the hydro or spring compensator on the axle, and the bushing(s) for it?

__________________
Current:
2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee"
2018 Durango R/T

Previous:
1972 280SE 4.5
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi"
1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k

Thanks,
I don't know what the aluminum chrome wheel are. I have the same tires on these wheels as on steel wheels, 195.
The stamps on the wheel say: 6 1/2 J x 14H2 , MB number 1264002102 but they are 127mm deep versus 120mm for the steel wheels.
I am probably trying to machine a 3mm spacer on a lathe in aluminum , using the old bolts which are about 29mm long.
But still...as the wheel is located further back as the right side (about 5mm) and it is closer to the wheel well the question long term arises. How do I compensate properly? where can I adjust the position?
And how is it done professionally?

Thanks, it happens actually only when I am taking right turns.
trailing arm = strut rod= #120? trailing arm bushing then is #122?
What is the spring compensator?

According to the parts catalog your wheel is intended for 107, 116 and 126.
W109's wheel part number is 126 400 23 02 and it looks like it is 14x6. So your wheels are half an inch wider. Both wheels got an offset of 30mm. If you punch those number into an offset calculator
http://www.1010tires.com/wheeloffsetcalculator.asp
you will see that your wheels are 6mm closer to the strut and 6mm closer to the fender than they are supposed to be.

Thanks, I think you are right.
What am I supposed to do now?

If you use spacers insure that you have at least 7 threads of lug bolt engagement and that they are hub-centric because the hub provides centering of the wheel-not the bolts and nuts like on some older cars. Be cautious when using thin spacers-especially on the rear because if the spacer is thicker than about 5mm there may not be enough of the hub engaging into the wheel.

__________________
Tony H
W111 280SE 3.5 Coupe
Manual transmission

Past cars:
Porsche 914 2.0
'64 Jaguar XKE Roadster
'57 Oval Window VW
'71 Toyota Hilux Pickup Truck-Dad bought new
'73 Toyota Celica GT

I was building 2 shims out of 1.2mm sheet metal in order to get some more clearance at the wheel well.
I am aware that this is just a quick fix and I need proper rear end adjustment.

Arthur was recommending the cross strut adjustment/ swing arm alignment.
Very nice hint for me at this moment.
Need to build the alignment tool according Arthur's sketch and find the cross strut length adjuster nut , the pivot bolt/pin and step bearing center bolts. I am not yet familiar with the terms.

If someone has a picture showing these nuts and bolts and how to adjust the ' ross strut length adjuster nut'- this would help a lot.

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update after undercarriage expedition:

I think I found the 'step bearing center bolts' which are 877mm apart according Arthur's diagram.
These are M14 bolts to the frame of the two profiled rods holding the rear axle in place in driving direction ...some call them Strut rod I believe?... and the M14 bolts keep #120, 159, 169 with nut 170 together. (numbers refer to my earlier rear axle diagram)

The pivot bolt/pin must then be the big hex bolt connected to the pumpkin and the 'fin' pointing vertically up#112? pivot bolt is #107?

The adjustment is possible at the cross strut length adjuster nut as far as I understand. This is the diagonal rod up to the passenger side #140?
This seems to be a threaded rod with left and right thread...so that by turning the rod the length is adjusted?
I took pictures for the parts described. I think people who know can confirm?
I am building the tool tomorrow and try the adjustment. Need to get the car on the street again.

Martin

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You need to adjust that strut that is seen in the third pictue in your last post. 6.3s use 6.5x14 rims and they don't rub. Adjust the thing properly and don't use the spacers.

GGR,

6.3 might have a different rear axle? I have a 3.5.
I am building the tool for testing with 1/2" copper tubing, 3 elbows and T.

Is the cross strut length adjustment (in third picture in the back) a rod with left and right hand thread?
Here are Arthur's diagrams again for the tool I am building.

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I have built the tool, did the adjustment (there is center hole in the pivot bolt...so you have a good target) and all is fine. I will post pictures of the tool and during adjustment later today.
Many thanks, especially to Arthur.
If anyone needs the tool I can give it away. It should be precise as I cross checked the diagonals too.

Here are the pictures for someone in future who might think it is helpful.
As I said I have this tool if someone is in need.

Martin

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