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  #16  
Old 01-18-2012, 10:41 AM
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Waxoil is more transparent than dinitrol, as far as I know, which can ge good if you want to see the paint color still. I have waxoil in my MGs and you can do it yourself (at least in Europe). Trick is to get in the sills/rockers. Get the mudshields out. Before spraying, clean out all dirt of course, and take the opportunity to touch up/remove rust before spraying over it.

Bert

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'70 111 280SE/c 3.5 (4 spd manual) - sold
'63 MGB
'73 MGBGT V8
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  #17  
Old 01-23-2012, 02:05 PM
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Went back yesterday to take a better look under the car. Brought a small jack and stands with me, but only had enough time to poke around the rear half. I guessed at where to place the jackstands, hoping that the forward end of the trailing arm was a good strong spot. I wasn't worried about rust-induced-weakness, but didn't want to deform the floors/rockers. (I jacked up from the rear end of the trailing arm)

From what I saw, the body, rockers, suspension pick-up points and driveline are all in excellent condition.

The fuel pump, however, appears to be the source of "that gas smell" when driving. It leaks like a sieve from the upper seam (vs. the bottom plate). My hopes that it was just a perished tank-to-pump hose end were dashed when I turned the key to on and saw the amount of fuel pouring out. Hopefully it just needs gaskets.

The right rear caliper appears to stick after the brake is pressed, locking the wheel and leading to heat-scorched rotor (and I think it is warped, too, as after prying the pads apart a little--just enough to be able to turn the hub with a long bar between the lugs--I detect a distinct sticky point at the same spot as I go around. Also that wheel's bearing are in need of changing. The tire wiggled once I got it off the ground. Not sure if I can just repack and tighten them. I have to dig deeper. So the good news is that I know more. The bad news is that there's still more to know... LOL.

Some pics of the underside; fuel pump, and various bits. This car is too clean to pass up... Why does it have to appear now??!!
Attached Thumbnails
Picking up W108 - 71 280SE-img_3198.jpg   Picking up W108 - 71 280SE-img_3185.jpg   Picking up W108 - 71 280SE-img_3187.jpg   Picking up W108 - 71 280SE-img_3190.jpg   Picking up W108 - 71 280SE-img_3191.jpg  

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  #18  
Old 01-23-2012, 02:19 PM
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Hopefully I'll be able to determine why the engine is down on power or why the trans doesn't kickdown. I suspect it has to do with timing, as I traced the distributor's vacuum line to a device on the right side of the engine bay, just below the hood line. The hose end was split, and disconnected. The device (valve/checkvalve?) has another short hose leading to the throttle body as well as an electrical connection. My guess is that at a certain RPM, the device opens, advancing the distributor.

I am tempted to shorten the hose and connect it, but am wary of improving the car's condition too much, pre-sale, (I already washed/waxed it) and what if I hurt something by poking around?

Anyone know what the device is in the yellow circle? (it is related to distributor vacuum)

And since you're looking... how about inside the orange and green circles? I haven't gotten a shop manual or parts book just yet, but am looking for sources.

PS: Pet peeve: crumbling underhood insulation. There is some 1"+/- dark grey material that has turned in to crumbly sponge/foam stuff due to age. It looks like the entire sheet was adhered to the bottom of the hood. Seems like a PITA to take off, clean up and replace. Update: In another thread, someone mentioned using Dynamat/Dynaliner on their tunnel and firewall. I think I'll go that route (with 1/2" dynaliner) for the underhood insulation on cars that need it. My Land Rover could use copious amounts of it. LOL.
Attached Thumbnails
Picking up W108 - 71 280SE-img_3039.jpg   Picking up W108 - 71 280SE-img_2583-2.jpg  

Last edited by Palolo; 01-25-2012 at 02:51 PM.
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  #19  
Old 01-25-2012, 02:48 PM
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This site has been the greatest source of information as I contemplate a return to the MB family.

Thank you to the folks who've responded in this thread, and a blanket general thank you to y'all who have contributed in the dozens of other threads I've read through as I have researched the ups and downs of W108 208SE ownership.

A special thank you to the folks who have posted photos in their threads. The ones of parts, assemblies together or apart, and the ones displaying their cars, both works in progress and inspirational examples; those pic-containing threads are golden. Having pics to refer to and compare to what I see on a car I'm hoping to pick up is priceless. I can tell what's original, semi-original or total bodge.

That said, damn the torpedoes, I am going to pick up a classic Benz one way or the other--hopefully this one. The slippery slope has begun. I suppose after having gone to see it multiple times and brought a jack and stands, I should have known.

Thanks all. I'll report back when an MB is in my garage.
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  #20  
Old 01-25-2012, 09:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Palolo View Post
Hopefully I'll be able to determine why the engine is down on power or why the trans doesn't kickdown. I suspect it has to do with timing, as I traced the distributor's vacuum line to a device on the right side of the engine bay, just below the hood line. The hose end was split, and disconnected. The device (valve/checkvalve?) has another short hose leading to the throttle body as well as an electrical connection. My guess is that at a certain RPM, the device opens, advancing the distributor.

I am tempted to shorten the hose and connect it, but am wary of improving the car's condition too much, pre-sale, (I already washed/waxed it) and what if I hurt something by poking around?

Anyone know what the device is in the yellow circle? (it is related to distributor vacuum)

And since you're looking... how about inside the orange and green circles? I haven't gotten a shop manual or parts book just yet, but am looking for sources.

PS: Pet peeve: crumbling underhood insulation. There is some 1"+/- dark grey material that has turned in to crumbly sponge/foam stuff due to age. It looks like the entire sheet was adhered to the bottom of the hood. Seems like a PITA to take off, clean up and replace. Update: In another thread, someone mentioned using Dynamat/Dynaliner on their tunnel and firewall. I think I'll go that route (with 1/2" dynaliner) for the underhood insulation on cars that need it. My Land Rover could use copious amounts of it. LOL.
The thing with the red circle is the cold start valve. it squirts fuel into the intake when you are cranking the engine (never press the acelerator when starting a MFI equiped merc ,it makes the mixture lean and it will never start properly).
I couldn't quite make out the other things.
The pad under the hood is nothing to be concerned about. I buy them from my local upholstery wholesaler for $50 .A squirt of 3M spray adhesive and it's on in minutes. It servers more to protect the paint on the bonnet from engine heat.
The injection feed pump is shot and it looks as though it has felt the ravages of E10 fuel or similar judging by the melted insulator on the power terminals. You need to replace the tank bung filter,the hoses around the pump and the pump itself. A fuel filter is in the front on the left hand engine mount. That will need replacing every few months.
Once you have that sorted,get the ignition 100% and see if it is still down on power.
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  #21  
Old 01-26-2012, 02:00 PM
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Mercmad, Thanks much for the E10 tip.

I'll drain the tank and pull the pump and hoses off too. I found a source of non-ethanol fuel at the local marina. Of course, it is likely at a premium, but sure beats buying 100LL at the airport. 5 gals should be enough for me to re-prime and drive the car back without leaving a trail of gasoline on the ground.

I saw on the SL113 wiki that the short pumps are rebuildable. I'm surmising that it is a seal or oring that has let go inside, and hope to find a modern replacement vs. a new pump. I have googled the Bosch number, but haven't turned up a seal kit for it. I suppose they prefer to get the unit back as a core and rebuild the whole deal in house rather than have enthusiasts poking around with it.

The owner of the car wants slightly higher than I have on hand, but I'm going to take it, as this one is too nice to let in the hands of someone who'll thrash it, or not treat it like the classic survivor that it is.
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  #22  
Old 01-26-2012, 02:38 PM
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If the pump does not leak at the terminals itself, it should be easily rebuildable. You can cut your own paper gaskets and buy modern o-rings. the back looks like it is the same as for the Bosch 0 580 484 005 fuel pumps that are under the D-Jet cars too. Find out the required flow rate and pressure, and you can hunt around for modern fuel pump replacement. I found a $47 BMW replacement that matches closely my old Bosch fuel pump's specs. There is a thread started by Werminghausen on those fuel pumps, and how they look internally.

Good luck.

Bert
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'63 MGB
'73 MGBGT V8
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  #23  
Old 01-26-2012, 05:00 PM
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Actually any EFi pump will work. You just need 14 Psi at 1 liter per 30 seconds volume.
The MFi pumps are a different animal to EFi units being designed to deliver volume rather than pressure . A new Mfi short pump is many hundreds of dollars so rebuilding is the best option if 100% originality is important.
The Mfi on this engine pumps it's own pressure at the engine,200 to 680 Psi .
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  #24  
Old 01-26-2012, 10:27 PM
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The hunt is on...

I saw this page that has a short/new pump and what looks like o-rings available: SLS Ersatzteile - Mercedes-Benz 230SL 250SL 280SL Pagode (R113/W113)

Unfortunately, they don't give the sizes, and I am being asked to move the car this Saturday...

Plan A: Will try to pull the pump tonight and open it up, pick up o-rings tomorrow.

Plan B: Pick up a generic EFI pump and some hoses at the import parts store tomorrow and use it to get the car home.

Thanks guys!
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  #25  
Old 01-31-2012, 11:01 PM
goodguy2
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
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I also brought one three point retractable seat belt from Seat Belts Plus.com. Took only ten minutes or so to install and it looks and feels like OEM. I installed it in the passenger position, but today I order another for the driver side. I was also supprized to see that you can use original hardware. How did you eliminate the buzzer noise. I'm hoping when I remove the original equipment from the electrical connectors it will not buzz.
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  #26  
Old 02-06-2012, 03:23 PM
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Found in car...

I found some stuff in the car, along with the owner's manual:

A little metal plate with scalloped edges, a peach card with what looks like installed options (a build sheet?) and a card that I should send to MB informing them of the change in ownership. LOL.

The car's thorough and early service history records were included, as was the car's recent service history. There's a bit of a mystery hole in the middle with the second owner, but from the overall condition, I gather that maintenance was at least decent.

This car has been loved, and luckily will continue to be so.

(As I was picking up a sheaf of documents from the place where it was living until just recently, the lady who handed me the docs said:

"Oh, you're the one who took the car?? I kept telling them to just donate the car to Kidney Foundation or have the city come and tow it away for free..."

Some people, I swear. Well, I'm glad she's happy with her beater 2005 Corolla LE.)
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Picking up W108 - 71 280SE-img_3508.jpg   Picking up W108 - 71 280SE-img_3509.jpg   Picking up W108 - 71 280SE-img_3510.jpg  

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