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Split the caliper.... UH OH
1971 Mercedes 220 Diesel
Was doing the brake job on the front, split the caliper so I could put in the new pads (unless there is another way????) and the O-ring between the two halves is shot. I did some searching on the forums, no luck. One company mentioned was Pirtek. Anyone else know of another place? The dealer? The last time I did brakes the O-ring was still good, not so this time. Thanks for any help. |
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You are supposed to push the pistons in and remove the pads. Unbolting the caliper halves is not recommended. You can contact the caliper manufacturer for the seals but you might get a remanufactured caliper, or two. If one side is bad, the other may just be bad as well.
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Regards Warren Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL ENTER > = (HP RPN) Not part of the in-crowd since 1952. |
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Someone else was dealing with this issue on this or another forum (can't remember) You might do a search. I'm in the same boat. I did some research and found a online parts store that had the orings for Porsche 914 calipers(can't remember which one)-I think they are the same. You will have to buy the complete caliper kit just to get the orings.
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Tony H W111 280SE 3.5 Coupe Manual transmission Past cars: Porsche 914 2.0 '64 Jaguar XKE Roadster '57 Oval Window VW '71 Toyota Hilux Pickup Truck-Dad bought new '73 Toyota Celica GT |
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Pelican Parts - Product Information: 10-5546-914-M4 |
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The two pins have to be removed. Brake pads have to be pushed back a bit, then you can pull the pads out. Sometimes the pads are rusted in place, then you need an impact puller or you have to take off the calipher.
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If you need the O rings have a look at this thread
ATE Caliper half, O ring source Two places that might possibly help.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
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I don't know for sure those places can help - let us know if they can / do
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
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Ha Ha !! That's funny ! It's like "I was doing the oil change, so I dropped the engine to remove the oil pan so that I could take the old oil out and replace with the new one (unless there is another way ????)"
As explained by Warren the procedure to replace the pads does not require splitting the callipers. Splitting them is not recommended though I've done it in the past to remove stuck pistons and rebuild the callipers. They worked just fine after that and still do 10 years later. In theory you should replace the bolts and nuts that keep both parts of the calliper together. |
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Oye!! I feel like I did that Lessons learned, I did it right years ago and was just in a rush last night.. DO'H! |
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No blame ! When I was a student back in Europe we decided with some friends to drive to the French riviera in the middle of a very hot month of August. So we all jumped into that old Peugeot 304 and off we went. After a few miles the car started overheating so we stopped at a gas station and I thought that removing the thermostat would improve things. So I started unbolting that bracket that was on the way until a friend, sitted by the side of the road and looking at the car told me : That's funny. The more you turn that wrench the more the engine is dropping (he could see the bottom of it going down). In fact these engines are kept in place from the top and I was dropping the engine without knowing it !
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These pistons were not coming out with air pressure. This was on a BMW 3.0 CSI that had been flooded and then stayed several years in a junkyard before I rescued it. Once the calliper were split I could then grip the pistons in a vice and break them free by turning the half calliper around.
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Yes that looks like it but you need to buy the entire kit just for the O-rings. Let us know if Army's source wooks out.
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Tony H W111 280SE 3.5 Coupe Manual transmission Past cars: Porsche 914 2.0 '64 Jaguar XKE Roadster '57 Oval Window VW '71 Toyota Hilux Pickup Truck-Dad bought new '73 Toyota Celica GT |
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