Who has pulled a M110 head? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Rob Pruijt · #16 07-03-2012, 05:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike D

Yup, nothing like frustration with your own mistake AND the added bonus of frigid temperatures to add haste to a repair.

I believe the hour of R&R since you already had everything cleaned and in one place.

IT was a carburetor version, that made it easier to.
And I had just replaced all rusted nuts.

Rob

DeliveryValve · #17 07-05-2012, 10:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 79Mercy

I have been researching most of my questions and have figured them out except for one. The chain tensioner, i have read the FSM over and over again and its not making much sense to me as to how to remove it and re-install it properly with new spring, i could be over thinking it though. Anyone know how it is R&R'ed exactly?
...

Yes you might be over thinking it too much.

Here is the FSM on R&Ring the tensioner.

Removing the banana rail.
http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12265/program/Engine/110/05-330.pdf

Similar to the one on the 617.
9 degrees of chain stretch

Rebuilding the tensioner spring.
http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12265/program/Engine/110/05-310.pdf

.

Rob Pruijt · #18 07-05-2012, 10:37 AM

While disassembling and reassembling put everything in a strong transparent plastic bag.
Those peaces go everywhere (strong spring), the first time I did this I spend quite some time on my knees to find the last piece.

Rob

79Mercy · #19 07-06-2012, 06:17 PM

Well im having issues with the chain tensioner.

I removed the 17mm cap nut, i have the 1st version tensioner on my engine. I tried to tighten the inner 10mm but i cant get it to budge. Nor was i able to loosen the 19mm body. Am i missing something or am i just not putting enough power to it, i had a big breaker bar...

Rob Pruijt · #20 07-07-2012, 02:47 PM

You should loosen the 10mm oil jet a little bit, not tighten it!!

When the oil; jet is loose the 19mm ring has to be removed, can be hard if it was tightened to hard. Always use a torque wrench, some people think they should use a lot of force because it is a big socket.

Rob

79Mercy · #21 07-07-2012, 04:36 PM

The fsm said to tighten the 10mm by 2 turns and then remove the 19mm body. I will re read the passage and try your suggestion tonight.

Thank you!

Rob Pruijt · #22 07-07-2012, 05:03 PM

It should be Loosen the 10mm by two turns, not tighten!!!!
If you tighten it by two turns it will be destroyed.

The reason to loosen it when still in the engine is that it is easier to break it free when the 19mm ring holds it in place. It you put it in a vice you may damage the outside of the tensioner.

Rob

79Mercy · #23 07-07-2012, 05:36 PM

Oh okay. Well I'm probably going to replace it when I re-install the head, the new updated one is around 50 bucks I think. I'm going to replace just about everything except for the chain as it was replaced before and it has absolute no stretch in it. Thank you again for your help!

Rob Pruijt · #24 07-08-2012, 06:12 AM

Replacing it is a good idea, you don't want a failed tensioner after all the work yo did.

The M110 is a very good engine, the only weak point on my engines were the exhaust camshaft lobes of the 5th cylinder. They failed on both 280's I had.

Rob

79Mercy · #25 07-08-2012, 02:27 PM

I was able to loosen the 10mm inner bolt. But I still can't get the 19mm tensioner body loose. If I can't get it out can I still remove the head te chain seems loose since I turned the 10mm.

The cams in my m110 look good. The car has been in the family for 20 years and has always been maintained regularly so maybe that's what kept my cams from getting worn down.

Rob Pruijt · #26 07-08-2012, 02:59 PM

What do you use to get the ring out?
The manual says a 19mm screwdriver insert.

Rob

Rob Pruijt · #27 07-08-2012, 03:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 79Mercy

I
The cams in my m110 look good. The car has been in the family for 20 years and has always been maintained regularly so maybe that's what kept my cams from getting worn down.

It is possible that my cams had some wear from my weekly 600mls round trips to Hamburg at 120mls/h

Rob

79Mercy · #28 07-08-2012, 07:13 PM

Yeah I'm using the equivilant of that.

Can I remove the head without removing the tensioner?

Rob Pruijt · #29 07-09-2012, 04:55 AM

I suppose you could remove the head with the tensioner in place, it has to come out eventually.

What may has happened is that you put your screwdriver insert in to deep, the tensioner itself has also a slot. If the insert locks in the slot of the tensioner it will be impossible to turn.

It should be tightened wit 50nm not very much.

Rob

280EZRider · #30 07-09-2012, 04:41 PM

I have been looking at the service disc on this and it is bloody confusing. But it seems they are saying that the threaded ring has to be tight before loosening the 10mm oil jet bolt. Well of course in most cases the threaded ring will be very tight, so then it's a matter loosening the oil jet bolt by two turns, and then removing the threaded ring (19mm), and then pulling out the tensioner with the 10mm socket wrench, with pressure to one side and turning to the right as you pull it out.

The procedure for extracting a stuck tensioner is straight forward; I asume have read that one.

I hope this helps