Who has pulled a M110 head? - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

79Mercy · #31 07-09-2012, 04:50 PM

I can have the machine shop remove the tensioner whenever i have them do all the work on the head(check level, guides and seals). At this point i simply cannot remove the tensioner, i have already broken a couple quality tools and it re-fuses to loosen.

Im going to have to pull the head without removing the tensioner i guess

kraakevik · #32 07-10-2012, 12:34 PM

Just cut the timing chain or remove the camshaft sprockets--this will allow the curved tensioning rail to move inboard and free it from the tensioner

Tim Kraakevik
kraakevik@voyager.net
Four 114's, Four M110's

Rob Pruijt · #33 07-10-2012, 01:05 PM

It is not necessary to cut the chain.
If you remove the cam followers and gear of the exhaust cam you can slide the camshaft enough to the rear to free the chain.

Rob

79Mercy · #34 07-12-2012, 03:55 PM

The head is off and I took it down to the machine shop a couple hours south of me today to be rebuilt, I should get it back in a week. Now to order all the new parts all need to get it all back up and running. Thanks everyone for your suggestions!

79Mercy · #35 07-22-2012, 12:26 PM

Here are some pictures i took last week when i pulled the head off

280EZRider · #36 07-22-2012, 11:47 PM

Nice photos!

It appears that the exhaust valves for cylinders 4 5 and 6 were out of adjustment.

On cylinder 2, is that a bunch of oil on top of the piston?

Also now is the perfect time adjust your steering slop if necessary, and to make sure that oil return line you had so much fun with is secure.

BTW, the reason I wasn't able to adjust my steering box w/o the special tool is that I have the earlier intake manifold, which is lower than yours and allows you no room above the steering box.

Keep us up to date!

79Mercy · #37 07-22-2012, 11:50 PM

How can you tell the valves were out of spec, to me it looks like it was running lean and cylinder 4 was burning water which is why its so clean.

Actually i adjusted my steering box a few years ago, it was a major pain but i was able to do it. Thanks for the heads up though! The oil return line is about 2 years old, the old one leaked badly for a long time.

I sprayed WD-40 in the top of block shortly before i snapped that picture, all the cylinders were dry when i first pulled the head.

280EZRider · #38 07-22-2012, 11:58 PM

So that's WD 40 on #2. Good news.

1, 2 and 3 appear to have a normal amount of carbon build-up on the exhaust valves. 4 seems to have been a little tight. 5 and 6, well I've never seen valves that color, so I am guessing either very tight adjustment or maybe water? The machine shop will probably, hopefully know better.

79Mercy · #39 07-23-2012, 12:26 AM

yeah thats not engine oil

Idk i thought that white valves meant it was running lean.

i looked back at the receipt i had from my local dealer back from 1983 when it had 60K miles on it. It said engine overheated due to a cracked servo, lost all coolant. Headgasket blew and cylinder 4 filled up with water. They wrote down the compression numbers and all of them were 145-150PSI but Cyl# was 115PSI with a note saying water on plug.

Well 29 years later and 162K cylinder 4 is getting water in it once again(i measured compression to be 125PSI, others measured 140-145). I personally never overheated the engine, however when it was under my grandparents care i can remember it running a bit hotter than i thought it should but i was to young then to remember clearly.

79Mercy · #40 08-04-2012, 12:11 AM

The head has been rebuilt and has been re-installed!!

I started it up today and it ran rough and chugged as it gained RPM's when i opened up the throttle, not sure if my timing is correct. Gonna look into that tomorrow.

t walgamuth · #41 08-04-2012, 06:19 AM

Congratulations on finishing a time consuming and tedious project! Proper timing should help!