I've had a CAD file made from the original regulator gear and had 4 new gears made by a local laser cutting shop. The gears are perfect as near as I can tell. I found that with care, once the gear and arm were separated from the pot metal mounting plate, that I could bend the mounting plate flat again. The pinion gear on the motor is still in good shape even though it chewed up the regulator gear. Must be harder material which is probably a good thing. I'd be happy to provide the CAD file to anyone who would like to get these made by their local laser cutting shop. The file is in .dxf format. You can probably get 4 of these cut for about $60.00 is the shop doesn't have a higher minimum charge that that. The material the gears are cut from is about .165" thick best I can measure. Attaching some pics showing the original chewed up gear and the new laser cut one. Tom Drew

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1972 280SE 4.5

I'd be interested in getting the file..... since Herr Gustav is in need.

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1961 220b: first project car - sold.
2000 CLK 430: first modern Benz - sold.
2001 CLK 55: OMG the torque!!! - sold
1972 280SE 4.5: Baby Gustav
1991 300TE 4Matic: Gretel the Snow Bunny - sold
1978 300SD: Katz the Free Man
1980 Redhead: Darling Wife

Excellent job on the gear, I have a microscribe arm and have considered modeling the Die cast mounting bracket of a new assembly I have not yet installed.

Since these are approaching expensive status.
I would appreciate the cad file also.

Guys, anyone who would like the CAD file please PM me your email address.

Tom

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1972 280SE 4.5

Pm sent.

Charlie,

I emailed you the file that Tom sent me.

Cheers,

Pat

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Looking for Early 108 windshield surround wood in decent-to-good condition.

Are there any tricks to remove and reinsert these gears? it seems they are heavy-duty bolted.

how did you set the new ones?

The regulator has to be removed from the door. Refer to the attached photo. You need to grind off the 2 rivet heads and the peened head of the pivot bolt
shown in the photo to remove the gear from the assembly. You will need to save the pivot bolt for reuse when re-assembling the regulator with the new gear. You will have to devise a method for fastening the pivot bolt. I drilled a centered 1/4" hole into the shank of the pivot bolt, then carefully welded a short length of threaded rod into the hole and fastened to the mounting plate with a self locking nut. The 2 rivets I was able to find at the hardware store.

The most important part of the repair is bending the diecast mounting plate flat as it was originally. Use a bench vise and your hands only and go slowly. The torque of the motor bends the mounting plate over time and the pinion gear on the motor starts to ride more and more on the edge of the regulator gear and chews it up eventually. Make sure when you re-assemble that the mesh of the gears is good throughout the entire travel of the mechanism. To keep the regulator in good condition after repair, make sure you don't hold the power window button down after the window has reached either the full up or full down position. If you do it puts all the torque of the motor in to the mounting plate, bending it because the window can't go anywhere.

Tom

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1972 280SE 4.5

Thank you.

Sorry to bring up an old thread but does anything please by my chance have the CAD files for the w108 window regulator gear? 3 of my windows stopped going down but I can still hear the motor.

If anyone has it can you please email it to me at FILNGUYEN@gmail.com

Thanks!!!

Finally getting to this point; thank you Tom for the files! The biggest question I have is (without taking the door apart), what thickness / gauge steel did you choose to have laser cut?

Many thanks,

-James

Hi James,

It's in my original post at the very beginning of the thread: .165" thick

Tom

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1972 280SE 4.5

Hello Tom, Igor from Germany.
i would like to get a CAD
akdteile@web.de


Regards
Igor

Dear Tom,
sorry but i havent recieve your CAD...

may be you can try once more to
akdteile@web.de
and
ir@rostar-automotive.de

Thanks in advance
BR from Hamburg
Igor