Can someone tell where the ID number is stamped (or supposed to be) on this vehicle. I"m having a hard time locating it. One google search showed an older one was supposed to be stamped under the air cleaner. The Chasis number is not the ID number and not the same as the one on the title. Thank you.

It's a 190D. Heres a photo

What's on the title? the prior owner of my car went through some hoops to revert the title VIN back to the actual chassis # after someone at HI DMV used the paint code plate to get the supposed VIN. Ehhhh... Old cars, really.

The VIN should be stamped on the right front frame rail, on the top surface.

It may be covered in oil/muck, paint or primer layers, or whatnot...

Or if there was accident damage that was repaired, perhaps it was cut out and a new piece welded in?

You might get lucky and find it on a scrap of paper tucked in the dash or folded in to the springs of the rear seat. On these oldies, the factory workers often just folded up identifying papers and slipped them in to innocuous places.

Good luck!

PS: Did the navy have paint on sale? I like the color. Just needs USS Fintail on the back and "110" on the front fenders. Anchors aweigh!

Ha! It's in primer ready for sanding and then the paint shop. The paint in the trunk is a "sand" color. The chasis code is 10118922 and the VIn on the title is 190DC0641XX is there any chance of finding the the original color off the chasis code?

Thanks and I"m still looking for the VIN on the frame

On the inner fender, passenger side, in the engine compartment should be two plates. The one towards the front of the car is the paintwork number, the other one is the Type plate.

Mounted on the door frame of the driver's door, in the area of the top hinge, is the Body Number.

Located on a tag that may be wired into the front or your radiator or mounted on the radiator holder is the Chassis number tag.

And on the driver's side of the engine, near the top and towards the front, is the engine number.

The source of this is a Chilton's manual from 1966 for Mercedes.

As an aside.... I once had a 1948 Chevy pick-up and the VIN was not even on the title. I bought it from a city auto pound sale and they could not locate the VIN. I pointed out that in Texas it was a Felony to sell a car without a VIN and said, in so many words, we are the Cops and we don't care.

The Tax Office did care, so I had to research it a bit. I found that in 1948 a car could be titled in Texas on the VIN number, which was engraved on the inside of the rear axle housing, or the Sales Invoice number from GM, which was stamped on a 'sales plate', or on any number the Clerk at the tax office in 1948 decided to use that was handy.

Not wishing to cut the rear axle apart I just went with the Sales Plate which the Tax Office said checked out when they consulted their 1948 data base.

A DPS Officer even came out to check the 'VIN' plate and signed off that all was OK.

There is a way to clear all this up. You just have to jump through the right hoops.

I vaguely remember it being on the drivers door frame on my 68 200D.

__________________
Palangi

2004 C240 Wagon 203.261 Baby Benz
2008 ML320 CDI Highway Cruiser
2006 Toyota Prius, Saving the Planet @ 48 mpg
2000 F-150, Destroying the Planet @ 20 mpg



TRUMP .......... WHITEHOUSE
HILLARY .........JAILHOUSE
BERNIE .......... NUTHOUSE
0BAMA .......... OUTHOUSE

Your chassis number is stamped on the passenger side frame rail in the engine compartment. It looks like 110.nnn-10-nnnnnn. The final numbers are the chassis sequence number. Post the number or take a picture and post it. What does your title have?

__________________
Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

On both my '64 and '67 110's, there are two plates on the top of the frame that's just in front of the radiator. The left one has the VIN (which will start with 110) and some other numbers. The paint code can be found on the plate on the right.

The plates are held on with screws which caused concern when I titled one of them. I don't know if there is another more official, tamper-proof location for the VIN. In my experience, Indiana and California have accepted them. the non-standard number can flummox a clerk, however. You'll have to explain that the car predates the 17 digit VIN standard.

VW and Porsche put the VIN number on the body under the back seat during this time and well into the 70's. You just lifted the back seat out and there it was, stamped into the body.

Try lifting out the back seat. Who knows, you might find the build sheet stuffed into the springs.

On my 108, it was tucked in behind the rear seat back, stuffed in the springs.

On my Land Rover 110, it was inside the dash, rolled up inside a heater duct.

I imagine they did this to keep the shop floor trash bins from filling with the bid sheets. Disposal via dispersal...

This is correct.
All W110-111-112 108-109 have the actual chassis number stamped into the right front chassis rail .
it should be 110.010.21 118992
On the radiator support there is also another number stamped. This is the body number and is NOT an ID or chassis number.
On the plates you have options on one ( the stamped steel plate) and the other will have the chassis number and body weights (black and silver alloy plate,often corroded beyond legibility)
The number on your title is a california ID that was assigned by the DMV and you wont find it anywhere on the car unless a plate was issued at the same time and affixed .
My 1962 coupe has a plate issued by Tennessee (in the 1980's!!! ) screwed to the drivers B pillar .It has rusted away so is basically useless and numbers have nothing to do with car itself.

Thank you for al the replies. I located both numbers on the vehicle and it's now registered and soon to be titled in Nevada.

The Arizona title didn't have the Chasis number on it and had previously been titled in IN.

Good grief, that was a lot of hoops to jump through because the title so long ago had the wrong number placed on it.

All is well, now on to a new clutch master cylinder and slave unit, and making sure the "beige" color was the original and off to the paint shop.


Thanks again, this forum has been a big help leading up to getting this car.


Keith

One thing I have found that works in your favor in these types of cases is that the title has been messed up for so long. Most states dump title info after 15 or 20 years and have no 'real' record to fall back on and dig in their heels with.

It comes down to has the previous owner had it a number of years? Is there a record of it being swiped? Does everything pass the smell test? If so then the state usually just figures it was all a paperwork error and, with a lot of doing on your part, corrects the title.

Thanks for letting us help.