Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Vintage Mercedes Forum

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #16  
Old 05-24-2012, 07:51 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: CT
Posts: 55
Quote:
Originally Posted by rs899 View Post
That's a very desirable car (if the rust has been fixed). Post your location and you may get some personal help. I don't think it's really worth scrubbing the insides of the fuel lines with a brush. If they are that bad, just replace them- I used a roll of 1/4" brake line on a Jetta I daily drive. Best way to address bad fuel is to pull the tank, which I don't think is too hard on a W115. There is no external fuel pump- the "lift pump" is part of the injection pump assembly.

Although this certainly qualifies as "vintage", there is more traffic in the diesel forum, so you might want to post a link over there.
Ok, I've never replaced steel lines before, so I think I'm just gonna leave them for now. I think dropping the tank is a good idea if it's easy. I could definitely make sure it's clean that way.

I'm in fairfield county, CT by the way.


Quote:
Originally Posted by tram View Post
Try adjusting the push- pull cable housing under the hood. There's a clamp down by the pump. Loosen it and push the housing about 10mm more towards the pump. Tighten it and push in the knob and your key may come out.

That knob MUST push all the way in with no spring- back to release the key. There's too much back pressure on it thru the cable.
Ok great, I will try that today. Thanks for the tip!

Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 05-24-2012, 08:29 AM
Admiral-Third World Fleet
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Central FL
Posts: 3,069
I had never messed with a roll of brake line either, but it was surprisingly easy to deal with and didn't kink.

I meant you should add your location to your user CP, then it will be on all your posts.
__________________
80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 05-24-2012, 12:26 PM
Regitsered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Honolulu, HI
Posts: 475
Quote:
Originally Posted by cj.surr View Post
I think dropping the tank is a good idea if it's easy. I could definitely make sure it's clean that way.
Dropping it allows you to drop a dozen washers in there to shake and swish around...

Why a dozen? So you know how many went in when you count them as they come out...
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 05-24-2012, 11:11 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: CT
Posts: 55
Ok, I got some good work done on the merc today. I drained the fuel tank, but only half-assed the cleaning. The diesel drained out pretty clean, so I felt it was fine. The tank screen was clean as well. Just ran some new diesel through the tank and it came out clean. Then I replaced the rubber hoses (note that one of the rubber lines at the tank is flared. One side bigger than the other. I used a size in between the two and was able to make it work).

Then I replaced the two fuel filters and refilled the air filter housing with new oil. Lastly, I changed the oil filter and put some fresh oil in. I still wasn't able to get the key out, even after playing with the start button cable and switch thing in the engine bay. But I would still consider it a good day. At least it's stuck in the position that I can run the car in.

I was about to start the engine and then remembered about bleeding the fuel line. It is obviously filled with air since I replaced the filters and hoses. I plan on following this procedure: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/vintage-mercedes-benz/1585793-1976-w115-240d-after-diesel-purge.html.


Also, it appears that one of the POs has bypassed the oil cooler. Is this a big concern? The hoses are there and joined together, so I'm assuming the cooler started leaking and they decided to bypass it instead of replacing.

Last edited by cj.surr; 05-25-2012 at 12:11 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 05-25-2012, 05:25 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Leiden, Netherlands
Posts: 614
The oil filter of a 220D consists of a reusable main filter (white disc in the picture below) and a renewable bypass filter (silver filter cartridge)



The dirt is on the outside of the main filter, and filtered oil is fed through the opening back into the engine. Here you can see the opening:



It is important not to get dirt on the inside of the filter, so close that opening if you clean the filter.

This is how the whole filter assembly looks before installation. There must be a spring at the bottom to press the filter against the top.



And don't forget to change the oil in the injection pump:



detail:



Unscrew the bolt at the red arrow. It is a banjo bolt, so you don't have to remove it. Diesel will probably flow out, so have some rags ready. Remove the red cap (blue arrow) and pour in engine oil until fresh oil flows out of the banjo bolt. It does not require a lot of oil, about 200 ml (1/4 quart). Tighten banjo bolt, put the red cap back on.

The oil cooler is only used in extreme condition (oil temperature above 95 degrees C) so it is not really needed. On later models it was only installed on five cylinder engines.

The pump has a bleed screw too:



at the red arrow. Hand pump until fuel comes out. Bleed the fuel filter too. Pump some more until you hear the return line valve opening (buzzing sound).


A cable runs between the starter knob and the ignition lock. If the starter knob is not in the stop position, the cable prevents the key from being turned. The cable can be unscrewed at the ignition lock. If you remove the cluster, you can see the cable.
Reply With Quote
  #21  
Old 05-25-2012, 06:53 AM
Admiral-Third World Fleet
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Central FL
Posts: 3,069
Quote:
The diesel drained out pretty clean, so I felt it was fine. The tank screen was clean as well. Just ran some new diesel through the tank and it came out clean.
This is really not surprising. Diesel does not turn into "peanut butter" like gas does. Our cars can be stored for years at a time- the trick is to keep the tanks full so that there is no condensation. Water forming in the tank can be a big issue as it leads to the growth of algae which then plugs the fuel system. If you didn't see any algae, you are in good shape.

The 220D, as Govert noted , has a separate sump in its IP for lubrication. The later cars had an oil line from the engine to handle that task.

It's going to take some getting used to, but you may like the simplicity of diesel motoring. If you can put up with the slowness of the 220D....
__________________
80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 05-25-2012, 11:13 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: CT
Posts: 55
Govert, Thanks a bunch for all of that info! That will be a huge help. I never realized that the pump was lubricated separately, so it's a good thing you pointed that out. Luckily, I put the oil filter in correctly, even though I was guessing on it. The only part I'm dissapointed about is the fact that the new oil filter kit didn't come with crush washers. The old ones looked fine, so I just cleaned them off and reinstalled.


Quote:
Originally Posted by rs899 View Post
This is really not surprising. Diesel does not turn into "peanut butter" like gas does. Our cars can be stored for years at a time- the trick is to keep the tanks full so that there is no condensation. Water forming in the tank can be a big issue as it leads to the growth of algae which then plugs the fuel system. If you didn't see any algae, you are in good shape.

The 220D, as Govert noted , has a separate sump in its IP for lubrication. The later cars had an oil line from the engine to handle that task.

It's going to take some getting used to, but you may like the simplicity of diesel motoring. If you can put up with the slowness of the 220D....
That's good then, because the tank was pretty much full when I bought it. Hopefully I won't run into any problems with the fuel.

I like the simplicity of the diesel engine so far. I'm not expecting it to be fast, that's what I have my 300hp E36 for. I'm just hoping I'll be able to merge into traffic without getting hit
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 05-25-2012, 11:52 AM
Admiral-Third World Fleet
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Central FL
Posts: 3,069
Quote:
I'm just hoping I'll be able to merge into traffic without getting hit
That's a very common thought around here....usually uttered skyward on bended knee every night.
__________________
80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 05-25-2012, 01:32 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: CT
Posts: 55
Quote:
Originally Posted by rs899 View Post
That's a very common thought around here....usually uttered skyward on bended knee every night.
Lol.



Ok, I gave it it's first start after the tuneup and it smoothed out pretty quick. Unfortunately (as expected), the kill button wouldn't work. Fuel was gushing out of the filter housing, so I had to kill the engine. So I pulled the intake off and blocked it with my hand. That isn't bad for the engine, is it? I had no way of stopping it. Here's a video I recorded:

220d first start - YouTube

About the filter housing o-ring that was leaking... It is a new one, and I have the filter housing tightened down pretty tight. Fear of stripping the bolt prevented me from tightening it any further. Is there a specific torque spec for that bolt?

EDIT: The fuel filter o-ring didn't sit in right, but I caught it now. No more leaking. Also, I found out that the kill button wasn't working because the whole switch housing was moving back and forth instead of the cable. I'll have to find someway to secure that, but I can't really see the back of it.

Last edited by cj.surr; 05-25-2012 at 07:06 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 05-25-2012, 03:29 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Phoenix Arizona. Ex Durban R.S.A.
Posts: 6,104
Congratulations. Quite an amusing video I must stay. Doesn't the 220D have a stop lever on top of the motor like a W123?

- Peter.
__________________
2021 Chevrolet Spark
Formerly...
2000 GMC Sonoma
1981 240D 4spd stick. 347000 miles. Deceased Feb 14 2021
2002 Kia Rio. Worst crap on four wheels
1981 240D 4spd stick. 389000 miles.
1984 123 200
1979 116 280S
1972 Cadillac Sedan DeVille
1971 108 280S
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old 05-25-2012, 05:04 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: CT
Posts: 55
Quote:
Originally Posted by pj67coll View Post
Congratulations. Quite an amusing video I must stay. Doesn't the 220D have a stop lever on top of the motor like a W123?

- Peter.
Nope, it doesn't have one as far as I know.


So the motor was running pretty well, and I started turning it around in my driveway (many-point turn). Finally got it straightened out, but one of the back wheels stepped off of the driveway and onto the grass. Started to move it, but I guess I didn't slip the clutch enough and it stalled.

I haven't been able to get it started since it stalled. The crank kept getting slower with every try, so I jumped it to my BMW. It started cranking faster then. It sounds like it's almost starting, but never quite gets there. I tried priming the pump, but I'm kinda clueless on what to do here. What exactly am I supposed to do with that knob next to the key (choke?)? I tried it in several different positions.
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old 05-25-2012, 06:25 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: CT
Posts: 55
If I let the car sit for 20-30 min, then it starts up again. But it has very low power, and it can't get up an incline in my driveway without stalling. Then right after it stalls, it won't start up. So low power=air getting into the fuel?

Last edited by cj.surr; 05-25-2012 at 07:10 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old 05-25-2012, 07:52 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: San Luis Obispo, CA
Posts: 1,623
The rotary knob to the left of the key is the idle adjust. You can set your idle a little high when starting and then lower it as the vehicle warms up. Mine is broken, so I use the "gas" pedal to give it a little extra fuel when first starting up. Not ideal, but it works.

Your idle didn't sound too bad. Mine is also a bit rough and noisy like that.

Regarding the very low power, perhaps there is a blockage of either fuel or air. Since you replaced filters and fuel lines, it hopefully isn't the fuel (it might indicate a bad injection pump). Check the fuel tank ventilation and make sure that it isn't blocked (that would restrict fuel from leaving the tank). Also, check your air filter to make sure you didn't add too much oil. Did you clean the filter or just change the air filter oil? Maybe the filter itself is blocked with something, which would limit air flow. You could remove the the air filter system from the intake manifold (in a clean environment) to eliminate any possibility of the air filter being the problem.
Reply With Quote
  #29  
Old 05-25-2012, 10:51 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: CT
Posts: 55
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shortsguy1 View Post
The rotary knob to the left of the key is the idle adjust. You can set your idle a little high when starting and then lower it as the vehicle warms up. Mine is broken, so I use the "gas" pedal to give it a little extra fuel when first starting up. Not ideal, but it works.

Your idle didn't sound too bad. Mine is also a bit rough and noisy like that.

Regarding the very low power, perhaps there is a blockage of either fuel or air. Since you replaced filters and fuel lines, it hopefully isn't the fuel (it might indicate a bad injection pump). Check the fuel tank ventilation and make sure that it isn't blocked (that would restrict fuel from leaving the tank). Also, check your air filter to make sure you didn't add too much oil. Did you clean the filter or just change the air filter oil? Maybe the filter itself is blocked with something, which would limit air flow. You could remove the the air filter system from the intake manifold (in a clean environment) to eliminate any possibility of the air filter being the problem.
Thanks for the advice.

I only changed the oil in the filter, and filled it to the line. I'll try eliminating the filter tomorrow and see if that makes a difference.

As far as the fuel tank ventilation, where's it located? I don't remember seeing one when I replaced the lines or drained the tank. Also, when I push the primer, I can see air bubbles traveling in the hose that goes from the injection pump back to the filter housing. Is this a bad sign?
Reply With Quote
  #30  
Old 05-25-2012, 11:19 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: San Luis Obispo, CA
Posts: 1,623
Bubbles in that fuel line are undesirable. Maybe you have an air leak into your fuel system. Search around here and you will find good advice on getting air bubbles out of the fuel system. If they are re-appearing, you must have a loose connection or cracked fuel line.

Many on here recommend a new type of primer pump. If your primer pump has white-ish plastic as the part you unscrew, it is the old type. I guess they leak air which is why many suggest you get rid of it. I still have my old type primer pump, but I also have an unsteady idle which might be related.

The fuel tank ventilation system is hiding behind the spare tire (right side of the trunk). It is a plastic box with 3 small hoses going to it. It vents to a rubber port behind the back bumper, at the corner bend. I guess fuel tanks can implode if the ventilation system isn't working (hopefully this is a rare event).

You should probably try to track down the MB service manual for your car. You can find the link through this forum, and electronic versions are quite affordable. It has been really helpful for me to learn more about my recent acquisition.

Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:36 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page