I just purchased a 1962 Mercedes 220se Coupe in pretty decent condition.
66k miles, Manual 4 speed Transmission White/Red

She's 50 years old and needs some attention

The main issues that i currently have are:

1. Clutch is slipping REALLY BAD
- I purchased the Clutch Disk from ********AZ because they had the best prices all I need now is to find a mechanic to replace it. (i'm in orange county California)
I'm used to manual transmissions and know when the push bearing gets noisy. This one is quite and i doubt i'll have to replace it. (update: got noisy eventually and i replaced it)

2. Brakes !
The Master Brake Cylinder is Leaking. Is probably due for all the hoses to be replaced, old fluid removed. And the e-brake needs adjusted and the warning light for it fixed.
The PO mentioned that he replaced the brake cylinder just recently, but i have a feeling he just attempted to rebuild the old one.
- This is were I need your help. There are different part numbers suggested for this model and I don't know which one I need.

3. Original Becker Radio is KAPUT. Haven't checked anything behind it and not sure if it's getting any power.

4. The clock is KAPUT too. I've found a few DIYs on forums on how to check the fuse and clean the Mechanism.

5. Fuel Gauge shows whatever it wants but not what's in the tank. Will have to remove and clean and see if that helps.

All in all i'm very pleased with the car and look forward to hear some advises from you.

I won't have time to look until next week, but I might have one in my NOS stash --- link in signature.

Do you have a part number?

__________________
daw_two
Germantown, TN

Links:
Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior
Cluster Needles Paint
New Old Stock (NOS) parts

Past:
3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda"
04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben"
& many more

You have a nice inventory there.
I wish i knew what the part number is.
Everywhere I look I see a different part number.
I have a 111.021 from 1962 220SE Coupe
Where can i look up a parts list for this car ?

If you are near a Mercedes dealer you could take your VIN number in to them and they could give you the part number. They could also give you a quote on a new or rebuilt part.

Some dealers have prices that are through the roof and some are quite fair. You never know until you ask.

By the way.... You say it is 'leaking'. Where? From the port the brake line screws into or somewhere else? The fix could be as simple as replacing an O-ring.

The Cylinder is leaking at the pedal, probably the first seal on the shaft. It leaks on the brake pedal on the carpet. VERY slowly. But smells bad.
I will order the cylinder today and a repair kit to attempt and fix the one i have

thanks for the tip on the dealer quote..

Just as update and i guess i'll keep this thread for my own use to track what's done to the
car. And if someone has any questions, please feel free to ask....

The car has a new clutch.
Picked it up on saturday and shifts like new. My mechanic replaced the Clutch, the bearing, transmission mount, Flex Disk and all the shifter bushings.
Feels very good to have a classic car that engages the gears soooo easy.

Yesterday replaced the spark plug wires, spark plugs and ignition coil.
Adjusted the points, cleaned the cap and rotor and the car starts like it should
Waiting for the brake cylinder and brake hoses. So anxious to feel the brakes work like the clutch

Please provide your VIN number and I can most likely tell you what the master cylinder is.

The reason there are different part numbers is due to a switch from a single circuit master cylinder to a dual circuit master cylinder. This switch likely occured during the 220SE production years. You need to look under the hood and see which one you currently have. A single cylinder will have a fluid reservoir that's shaped round (like a jar), while a dual cylinder will be shaped more rectangular. Many owners switched to a dual master cylinder at some point due to safety reasons....so it is best to examine yours before just going by what the chassis number dictates which style you should have.

I hope this make sense!!

__________________
All the best,

J. P. Mose
1968 250SL
1970 280SE 3.5 Cabrio
1987 560SL
1990 560SEL

The VIN number on the title says 021954
I purchased 001 430 63 01 and it turned out to be the wrong one.
I ordered 001 430 89 01 and they canceled the order since they are out.
Waiting for the rebuild kit and will try to rebuild it.

Funny that the better one costs half the price of the older one




Crazy not to see the Vacuum amplifier there

Hello again,

After a lot of research on the EPC and finally talking to the Classic Center in So. Cal, we mutually agreed that the Master Cylinder part number is:

A0014301101

This is also the Master Cylinder that doesn't bolt to a Booster. The part is available through Mercedes at a cost around $700. Because of the high cost, the Classic Center stated they would provide you a discount yielding a total of $547 (I assume before tax). Classic Center also stated there is no rebuild kit available at this time.

The two part numbers you stated in your above posting are both dual master cylinder part numbers. Hence, I'll bet the rebuild kit you ordered will not be correct.

There is also a listing on Ebay:

MERCEDES MASTER CYLINDER W111 220SB 220SEB 0014301101 | eBay


Background:

The EPC confused me as part number A0014301101 has a note under it stating "014 From Chassis 026841" . Since your chassis number is earlier, I was convinced there had to be another part number for yours. After the Classic Center researched it (and they were befuddled as well!!), the Sedan W111014........uses this part number from 26841 forward to another change. But the Sedan had two earlier versions (starting in 1959) that led up to this part number. Per the Classic Center: ALL 220SE Coupes and Cabriolets started off with the above number.


While I know the price is disappointing, having the luxury of being able to obtain a new unit is beneficial. This is also a single (versus dual) master cylinder, so having one in tip top shape is important. I personally wouldn't be fearful of a single, as long I knew the four hoses were fresh and the brake cylinders were all new or rebuilt. Also, make sure your metal lines are not badly corroded and the emergency brake is working well!


I really hope you enjoy your W111 as much as I do mine. They are treasured classics!!

__________________
All the best,

J. P. Mose
1968 250SL
1970 280SE 3.5 Cabrio
1987 560SL
1990 560SEL

Thanks for the thorough research on these part numbers.
I've already ordered the rebuilt kit so it will probably end up for sale.

It's a nice car, but looks like parts got cheaper as they upgraded.
I'm waiting to see how the rebuild kit looks like and if any of the seals are compatible. Or look of the original BC...

So my car has the single circuit. Does that mean the Front AND Rear pistons are all connected to one line ?
Or is it a matter of RL & RR - FL & FR
Is there a difference in how you bleed the system ?

Thanks

This is a good thread for those with the same issue
Remote Vacuum Booster + Drum Brakes

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/vintage-mercedes/123947-220b-master-cylinder.html

He ended up installing a GM Rebuild Kit GM #3905792 GR.4.649.

All four brake lines are hooked up to the one master cylinder. If you blow out a brake hose at any wheel all of your brakes are gone. For this reason it is very important to make sure your parking/emergency brake is working.

Another good thing to do is to install stainless braided lines at each wheel. The only place you should have rubber brake lines is at the wheels, and removing these and installing the stainless braided lines is really rather easy. They are also lined with a plastic hose that will not break down when exposed to brake fluid. They are also not very expensive.

I have had two instances where a brake hose broke. Very, very tense moments until the E-brake bought it to a halt.

By the way... There is a way to tow a car with no brakes. You let the car with no brakes tow the one with brakes. That way the car being towed provides the braking power.

Where do you get the stainless lines from ?
I've searched around and haven't found anyone selling as lines for these cars.

I've never used this company, but have kept their link in my bookmarks for years, because I know I will eventually need their services:

brakecylinder.com and Sierra Specialty Automotive.

Might be a good way to restore your rare and expensive master cylinder. Again, I can't vouch for them but they are (relatively) local and I would imagine could do up your MC for less than the $700 for a new one.

Thanks for the help.
They emailed me back. Looks like they can do it for around 150$ for the Master Cylinder + 90 for each wheel cylinder
Not bad i think, except that the wheel cylinders are about 75 brand new.
I may go with them, unless Classic Center has the rebuild kit.