The axle pivot "bushing' is out !
There was nothing left of it. It literary deteriorated and disappeared.



Can't wait to get the new one in place.

To everyone who wants to do it without removing the axle - it's a big challenge. And you need to let one side down. I dropped the left side down by disconnecting the shock absorber, thrust arm and brake hose. The left side dropped on the floor and there was enough clearance for the center support to slide out.

Now i have the steering pump out (waiting for the ordered part) and the rest of the rear suspension and brake system waiting for an overhaul.

For all intents and purposes you have removed the one part of the axel which matters when it comes to its alignment with the drive shaft. Pull the rest out and refurbish the whole unit.
If one piece of rubber is bad then expect every other piece to be compromised.
There is no way around the fact that the rubber on 40 year old Mercedes has to be replaced. It is a matter of chemistry not wear and tear.
Every piece of rubber on the axel is vital to its proper performance. None of it is 'touch up'. 'Touch up' would be replacing to a cracked tail light lens.

__________________
Britton McIntyre

68 280 SE coupe 'Hairball'
70 280 SL
71 280 SEL - RIP May 2010
08 R320 CDI

The only rubber thing i don't touch is the center rubber sleeve. It's been serviced. In fact looks like the differential was serviced but not the suspension parts. That's alo what the PO mentioned. The oil was new and looked like the casing of the differential was apart not too long ago.

Everything else is being replaced.
-Thrust arm bushings (forward and rearward)
-Spring Shims
-Brake hoses
-Axle Pivot bushing
-Pinion Seal
and decided to order the cross arm strut bushings.
And will clear the breathing tube (Thanks Arthur Dalton)
Replace the pinion nut and crush plate

After all this effort, not doing the alignement is a waste energy.

Let me know if i missed any bad rubber parts

Make sure you order 2 - #384. The diagram only shows one but two are needed.

__________________
Britton McIntyre

68 280 SE coupe 'Hairball'
70 280 SL
71 280 SEL - RIP May 2010
08 R320 CDI

Thanks That one was a bit confusing. I saw one diagram that shows 2 pieces and niemoeller says 2 required. But most of the diagrams picture just one.

And 2 x #371 as well, I think. Maybe Twinockchef will verify.

Yep, 2 of those too...

I just remembered. On the thrust arm rear rubber I would also order new snap rings (#342), two per arm. They may be compromised. Their cheap and its good to have them there if needed or just replace them no matter what.

__________________
Britton McIntyre

68 280 SE coupe 'Hairball'
70 280 SL
71 280 SEL - RIP May 2010
08 R320 CDI

I hope you were able to source out quality rubber parts ,not the uro bits requiring a replacement again.


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Everything has the mercedes stamp. I could barely see any aftermarket parts for this car. Except leathers and carpets.

Yep that rotten pivot bushing is the result of pinion seal neglect,
Simply cascading, differed maintenance.
"one thing leads to another"

I have the cheap permanent "delrin" fix in mine now.

Did you order the "delrin" piece ?
How much is it ?

Found this on eBay: Mercedes 4 Lug Dr Pinion Shaft Flange Nut Socket | eBay

Doesn't look super quality but may be OK for your application.

I would also take the whole axle down. I did rebuild several of them and given the work, time and energy involved you don't want to cut corners as otherwise you may be redoing it all sooner than later.

Check the sliding sleeve in the U-joint. If it slides freely you have chances it is still good. If not it is broken (happens quite often) and you don't want all these little roller balls navigating in your rear end. Happened to me on a 6.3 and the result was not nice to watch.

I ordered the raw material (ebay) and had it machined, If you wish I can do it again for about $80 then you will have to burn-out the old rubber from the metal parts (2 propane torchs) clean with emery cloth and install the machined delrin part (pressed and glued in)

Or send you the CAD drawing for a D.I.Y.

I am told this won't fit your application.