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  #1  
Old 07-03-2012, 11:47 AM
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w108 4.5 sticky throttle, brakes

bad combo of problems so i want to get this fixed. just finished a project and the car has not been driven for two months.

  1. the throttle is sticking. everything on the motor was greased and cleaned so it sure it is on the body, any idea what might be the problem area?
  2. brakes seem seized a little they work but require quite a bit of pressure and if i were to guess, working at about 50% of power, if that. they werent perfect before the project but no where near this bad. *also the peddle will not press in all the way.



Last edited by gingerkid; 07-03-2012 at 12:15 PM.
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  #2  
Old 07-03-2012, 01:31 PM
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Problem #2 sounds like air in the brake lines or water. Both compress at a different rate than hydraulic fluid which in theory does not compress at all. You might just try bleeding the brakes and see if that helps.

I am not that up on your fuel system to help with the sticking throttle, but it has to be something binding up in there OR it is a kink in your cable if you have one.

If you have a solid linkage then it is likely binding in a joint. Has a support come loose?
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  #3  
Old 07-03-2012, 01:39 PM
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There's a bushing on the throttle pedal, behind it, that slides up and down the throttle rod. Make sure the rod is clean, a little lubricated, and the bushing is good. Aside from this you may need to adjust and lube your linkage under the hood.
Attached Thumbnails
w108 4.5 sticky throttle, brakes-throttle-linkage1.jpg   w108 4.5 sticky throttle, brakes-throttle-linkage2.jpg   w108 4.5 sticky throttle, brakes-throttle-linkage3.jpg  
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  #4  
Old 07-03-2012, 01:42 PM
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linkages are all good and freshly cleaned up to the firewall. on the firewall there is a lever which is rusted pretty good but seems solid. suppose i should detach the linkage and play from there. i havent been able to look under the dash but was currios if there was a common issue i should check out before troubleshooting too much. i will try bleeding the brakes, after you mention that it does remind me of how brakes feel prior to being bled. thank you
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  #5  
Old 07-03-2012, 01:47 PM
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As far as the brakes go, there's an issue that all 40 year old cars have.

If your brake lines are original, they are shot. Even if they look good outside, there is no way these hoses can properly handle the hydraulic pressures. Rubber deteriorates with age (we all know this) and will eventually fail.

You can get stainless braided hoses if you have a show car and want lines that last a very long time but there's nothing wrong with OEM rubber hoses. Replace all the hoses, ensure all 4 calipers move smoothly with no binding and bleed the system with some fresh DOT-4 synthetic fluid.
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1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k
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  #6  
Old 07-03-2012, 01:48 PM
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Ill post some pics tonight, ill be excited to show you Tomguy since you guided me though all the troubles.
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  #7  
Old 07-03-2012, 01:55 PM
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do you know where to get stainless lines that bolt in? otherwise oem lines for sure
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  #8  
Old 07-03-2012, 03:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomguy View Post
As far as the brakes go, there's an issue that all 40 year old cars have.

If your brake lines are original, they are shot. Even if they look good outside, there is no way these hoses can properly handle the hydraulic pressures. Rubber deteriorates with age (we all know this) and will eventually fail.

You can get stainless braided hoses if you have a show car and want lines that last a very long time but there's nothing wrong with OEM rubber hoses. Replace all the hoses, ensure all 4 calipers move smoothly with no binding and bleed the system with some fresh DOT-4 synthetic fluid.

I wasn't aware that DOT 4 is a synthetic and thought that was only DOT 5.

Brake issue could also be a brake booster problem. I have a box full of dead ones after they were found to be inoperative.
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  #9  
Old 07-03-2012, 07:04 PM
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well it seems a break overhaul is in order. the joys of a classic, finish one project, then on to the next!
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  #10  
Old 07-03-2012, 08:14 PM
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So just looking at prices, new brake boosters are PRICEY if that is the problem, I found some remans from a company called Cardone for $105+core. Master Cylinder from Beckarnly on wholesale clearance for a new one $25, cardone reman for $25 also.... anyone know if these brands are worth messing around with?
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  #11  
Old 07-03-2012, 09:02 PM
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I've had Beck AND Cardone remans that have had no issue. Of course they weren't MB parts, but still. Reman Beck PS pump on my Jeep, Cardone PS pump on my 300M, both over 10k no issues so far. The Jeep one has 5yrs on it, too (~1yr on the 300M).
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1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k
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  #12  
Old 07-05-2012, 09:09 PM
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inspected the brakes today and im nervous about changing the lines because the coupler/bracket that connects the hard lines to the hoses are in pretty rough shape. not sure if the new lines will screw in... hmmm
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  #13  
Old 07-06-2012, 08:58 AM
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Auto stores like Advance & AutoZone sell bendable replacement hard lines. Just bring your hose with you to match the fitting thread, then get the length you need. You can also have a shop re-flare new lines if you prefer (or get the tools to do it yourself).
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Current:
2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee"
2018 Durango R/T

Previous:
1972 280SE 4.5
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi"
1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k
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  #14  
Old 07-06-2012, 12:08 PM
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hmmm im thinking the brake boost is the culprit. during the project i installed a new vacuum hose for the brake booster and I am beginning to wonder if i installed the vacuum check correctly. these are single directional i assume... :-) either way, a brake overhaul is in order!
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  #15  
Old 07-06-2012, 03:41 PM
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Sounds like a vacuum problem. Double-check where you installed/routed the line. Is the throttle actually sticking or does it simply remain at a high idle? High idle + hard brakes says vacuum.

I always go back to the last thing I did, no matter how remote it might seem, to check on a new problem.

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