Does anyone have any recommendations for what paint to use to protect the front and rear axle while i have them off.
Just had the rear steam cleaned and going to strip down and replace bearings and oil seals etc before painting. I hear POR15 mentioned a lot but is this just rust treatment paint? I also need advice on what to use to protect the underbody? Ive got some stuff off the shelf here in nz but its really gooey sticky horrible stuff which i believe will do its job but i just dont want to be getting that stuff all over me when im under there next.
Any pointers appreciated!

Harry

I like Duplicolor Truck Bedliner. It's a little thicker than regular paint and doesn't have any bits in it like the roll on bedliner.

You could use something like Eastwoods Rust Converter to treat the chassis, or a modern rustproofing compound. Check with the dealer's body shop to find out what they use.

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Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

Yipes! You are a man of great courage. Kudos though for taking on a rotissery of a fintail. I would go for the por 15 I believe though after welding in patches, then good quality paint.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Thank you. Well, so far its going well, but this i believe is the easy part of the resto. trying to remember where everything goes when i come to rebuild it is going to be a headache to say the least!
Yes the decision has been made for POR 15. I have been talking to a painter today and he fully recommends it but he didn't mention anything about having to paint over it.. Are you thinking for extra protection or just aesthetics?

I'd just spray on a sealer at this stage. Nice work- Good to know I'm not the only idiot that won't hesitate to put $50K worth of effort into a $6500 car. There's only two ways to do something- Right, or not at all!

Look on eBay for a spare parts book for this car. This will greatly aid in reassembly. If you have the original owner's manual pouch, it should be in there.

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1968 230S Automatic, Elfenbein
1975 O309D Executive Westfalia Camper Bus, Blau/ Weiss
1972 280SEL 4,5 Dunkelrot
1966 VW Type 34 "Grosser" Karmann-Ghia
1963 VW 1500 Variant Pearlweiss
1969 VW Variant Automatic, Perugruen
1971 VW Squareback Automatic, Clementine Orange
2001 E320 4Matic Wagon- Our belated welcome to the 21st century! Polar White
1973 280SEL 4,5 Sliding Roof "The Bomb", Dunkelblau.

I believe it says right on the can (and/or on their site) that it needs to be top coated, as it isn't UV stable. Moisture and oxygen kicks of the curing, so opened cans tend not to last long at all. When the paint in the can skins, it is close to gone. Get ready to coat a lot, or use small cans.

You also don't want to let a drip sit on your skin for long, or you'll be wearing it for days. Pretty crazy to think of the effect of something like that, which permeates its way into the skin layers.

Good stuff, both your Resto, and that paint...

You will need to wear some sort of respriator while using that stuff. Imagine what will happen if you breath in anything. I wold use some sort of rubber gloves.

I have a number of NOS frame pieces for this type of car.

Do not use POR15 on the axle assemblies! If you get ANY of the stuff on any threaded or moving item they will no longer do either! I slopped just a small amount on a jack stand and I had to cook the POR15 off using a torch to get it to release.

On the axles and sub frame assemblies your best bet is a good, oil based, enamel paint. Rustoleum is a good brand but I don't know if you can get it in Kiwi-ville.

They make "Chassis Black" but it's over priced as far as I am concerned.

The enamel is "soft" enough to be forgiving of road debris and it's easily re-coated when you discover those higher than usual parking stops.

Here's some of the work I did on a W114 chassis where I used the Rustoleum.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/body-repair-restoration/220024-w114-115-subframe-restoration.html

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“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.”
― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now

Thanks for the advice everyone, ive had a look at POR15's instructions on their website and its definitely worth reading if your thinking about using the stuff yourself for anything. It seems i wont need to topcoat as they do mention being a requirement but only for prolonged exposure to the sun. my front and rear axle should then be fine.
I will take your advice Mike-D and i will brush it on by hand being careful not to get it anywhere problematic.

Where are you Located Benz Dr? I think most of the panels we will be able to produce here but one or two of the more involved ones i could be interested in. boot/trunk floor for one. Not sure about the rest.

I will upload some pictures from todays work.

I'm like the other side of the world in Canada. I have frame rails and some other stuff. It's been so long that I looked at these parts I can't quite remember what I have.

Oh yeah i think postage could be expensive. But thankyou

For a Kiwi car it has very little rust. I have worked on Finnys here in OZ which were a lot more rotten than that .I am working on a 300SE coupe right now which needed a new roof section welding in.
And the springs do not need to be left stuck on the floor...
The rubber pads on the top determine ride height so measure them and see how thick they are. There are three or four different thicknesses so the ride height can be adjusted .
There should be rubbers on the bottom end of the spring too.
Por 15 is great stuff , my late uncles mercedes SSK was used on the front of the New Zealand catalogue a few years back.
Never ever spray it without a respirator!!!. It will kill you if you get that stuff in the lungs. it's not paint,but liquid urethane and it goes hard in the prescense of water...like you have in your lungs.
Replace all your rubbers in the diff,including the flexi boot, the torque arm bushes, the upright pivot bush and the cross link rubbers. The mount in the boot should be replaced too . These cars ride like a dream when all this stuff is in good nick.