How can I identify solid and not solid core wires?
Martin

I'm not sure how exactly, but you could get the Bosch platinum set and those are not.... In fact, the spark wires should be replaced as maintenance.


Some reading material to complete your engineering on ignition systems
How Spark Plug Wires Work

PS it seems Solid core spark plug wires have been outlawed in many places due to RF interference.

__________________
1972 W108 280SE 4.5
1977 W116 450SEL
1981 E12 528i BMW

I replaced mine a couple years back. I think it was Bosch. Will try to verify.

Seems we had this discussion before. It keeps coming up, and it is confusing.

Despite what it says on Bosch box (Magnacore?), the Bosch wire sets for the Mercedes V-8s (Part number 09027) have the following printed on the wires themselves:

"Bosch 7 mm opti-layer copper core ultra premium"
(That is what I have on my car, bought from Autoh__ Ariz__)

This is what the Bosch web site says:
The interesting thing, is that the 09027 wires do not have a resistor at the plug end (there is one at the distributor end). I called and asked them about that, and it seems they expect us to be using resistor plugs (which I do). If you can find them, there are plug wire sets available from other manufacturers that still have resistors at both ends and can be used with the non-resistor plugs that many swear by.

Martin, if you have Beru, Bosch or other wires, check and see if the wires are marked. If they were bought as a set for your car, they will most likely be copper cored if made to OE specs.

__________________
Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

I tried today to find marks on the wires but couldn't find anything. I will go back and search again. Pertronix is for the future. I anyhow can't get the parts here.
Would you suggest to just replace the point in the distributor by the 1885 and leave the rest alone.. I mean using the switchgear.
Anyway the engine starts right away, very nice idle and 14.5" vacuum w/vacuum connected.
I am starting to take this leaking airbag out and wait for the postman to bring the new one. I can't wait to drive the car.

IMO.

I think points are obsolete and require maintenance and adjustment.

I went with Pert. Ignitor and flamethrower because its simple, modern, reliable and wanted to eliminate the possibility of something failing on the switchgear (it's 40 years old).

At the same time I replaced spark wires and plugs.

Next on the list- replace the injector's electrical connectors.

Basically pert system is doing the same as MB switchgear, but simpler and with less items.

__________________
1972 W108 280SE 4.5
1977 W116 450SEL
1981 E12 528i BMW

This means.... you have changed spark wires (to the non solid ones) and thus allowed for Pertronix Ignitor II system? (or Ignitor I?) ...plus flamethrower.. Bypassing switchgear and not running the risk of frying the system if leaving key in #2 with engine off?
Is Ignitor II or Ignitor I your concept?

I have looked for marks on my existing spark wires... They are
VI Bremi
Germany
XX221 VWI
surface material is silicone

Are these non solid wires?


I like the idea of replacing the old plugs at the injectors very much, my rubber boots are completely shot: Do you have an idea what product to use?

I installed ignitor II with flamethrower II, new Bosch wires part number 0927 and Bosch spark plugs7900
Bosch spark plugs mention: Spark Plug; SuperPlus Heavy-Duty; Yttrium Electrode (This updated plug replaces numerous original plugs including W7DC, WR7DC, W7DC0, and W7DTC version which are no longer available from Bosch. Pregapped for normal usage.)

Ignitor II doesn't fry if key on 2 is left on. Ignitor I does.

I removed MB switchgear system.
Pert is very simple to install if you use flamethrower.

About the plugs: Standard Motor Products Fuel Injection Harness Connector SK21
http://www.carpartkings.com/standard-ignition-fuel-injector-connector-sk21.html

PS I don't know if your wires are solid or not.

__________________
1972 W108 280SE 4.5
1977 W116 450SEL
1981 E12 528i BMW

Thanks for the information.
I just need to find out if my spark wires are non solid wires. I'll send some picture of the cables, they are silicone for sure. So there is a chance maybe to use Pertronix II - Ignitor and Flame thrower.
Do you have an el. diagram how to install/bypass the switchgear? or pictures.
Did you notice any engine improvement with the Pertronix?

Thanks for the injector plugs. Is there also a source for new rubber boots?

Maybe you should ask the Pertronix guys directly if your cables are ok.

Performance: you can read here http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/ignitor2/default.aspx... For me it was about peace of mind.

About the installation: I installed per FIG 2 with the ignition wire prior to the ballast resistor...
I kept one ballast resistor 0.4omh which is used for other cable ( can't remember which)
http://www.pertronix.com/support/manuals/pdf/ignitor12vneg.pdf
* This are ignitor I instructions, but same installation.


Which rubber boots?
Maybe one in here?: http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperCat/3249/MBZ_3249_FULINJ_pg1.htm#item2
Note.. Make sure you select your car.

__________________
1972 W108 280SE 4.5
1977 W116 450SEL
1981 E12 528i BMW

Assuming that is a typo and the wires are 09027. If so, try reading what it says on the wires themselves. As I mentioned above, Bosch 09027 are solid core wires according to the markings on the wires.

__________________
Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

Hi Martin,
I have heard of Bremi wires, but don't know about those particular ones. Almost all European cars used solid core copper. That VW in the number is puzzling for a V-8! Bremi may be able to provide an answer BREMI - PREMIUM CAR SYSTEMS | Ignition Technology | Ignition cable sets | Ignition Coils | Glow plugs | Distributor Caps

Sounds like the car is running well. For a car that won't be driven a lot, nothing wrong with points. It's just that the rubbing blocks wear over time and the gap closes which requires points to be adjusted from time to time. On my car I installed the 1885 Pertronix as just a points replacement. That was quite a while back. The OE switchgear is heavy duty and still works, so I left it in place and kept the OE coil. It's just a matter of personal preference how much to modify the original design, especially if car is running well. I do have a Flamethrower coil still in box, ready in case some day the switchgear fails

Hope you get her out on road soon!

__________________
Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

Correct, 09027 wires. I'm using the same and from the same vendor.

From what I've read so far, I'm doubtful about these wires being solid core. Bosch is not clear about it.
Maybe we receive the "domestic" version?
Do you think these wires include resistor connectors? They are 1k Omh...And IIUC solid core are 200-300ohm


Nothing definitevely, but I'm contacting Pertronix and see what they say.
Pertronix ignitor I or II for the 1971 280se 3.5 (v8 -m116)

Also, I tought it was because RFI but it seems its about voltage spikes
THE H.A.M.B. - View Single Post - Technical Pertronix and copper core wires?
THE H.A.M.B. - View Single Post - Technical Pertronix and copper core wires?

__________________
1972 W108 280SE 4.5
1977 W116 450SEL
1981 E12 528i BMW

Almost all early Euro cars used solid core copper wires, so it is hard to see Bosch marketting wires that are not when they say they meet OE specs. The OE wires had resistors at both ends and I think measured, from memory, about 6.6kohms (corrected). I sawed one set apart and they had integral resistors in each end. I have NOT sawed my new Bosch wires apart! I assumed that if they are solid core as is printed right on the wire, then there must be a resistor at the distributor end. I asked Bosch about it and all they would say, is to use the wires with their resistor plugs.


Unfortunately Pertronix probably don't know any more than we do about the Bosch wires. But they may have better luck finding out. Interesting quote in that link:
Originally Posted by Tony H
In first link he mentions Ignitor I when it is usually Ignitor II that is said to have problem with copper core. In second link (Marvin - he is the guy I have spoken to in past) doesn't specify which Ignitor he is referring to.

Seems that to get to bottom of this, we need to get definitive information on how the 09027 wires for Mercedes V-8s are made. Then provide that to Pertronix and ask them which Ignitor is recommended. I see they have Ignitor 1,2 & 3 these days.

__________________
Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5