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  #1  
Old 04-15-2013, 10:43 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Posts: 532
230 SL (W113) Suspension Tools

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Looking for specific tools to service the rear suspension of a 1964 230 SL:


Spring coil compressor
1. Tensioners 111 589 04 31

2. 24 mm hex socket deep 111 589 01 09


Lifting vehicle
1. Jack flange 111 589 01 63



Rear axle support
1) Rear axle support bracket 111 589 07 61

2) Conical installation arbor 111 589 00 61

3) Jack fixture 111 589 05 61


Compensating spring
1. Spring tensioner 111 589 00 31



Checked with M-B's Classic Car Center but all were listed as NLA. Any idea as to where else to look?

Thanks.
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  #2  
Old 04-16-2013, 11:13 AM
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Location: Ontario
Posts: 1,072
Why do you think you need all of this stuff? You don't.........
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Old 04-16-2013, 02:17 PM
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What do you propose I use instead?

My internal Klann spring compressor (for W123, W126, W124) will not work on the W113 springs.

The rear axle needs to be lowered to gain access to worn components; can you offer an alternative method than that detailed by Mercedes?
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  #4  
Old 04-16-2013, 10:48 PM
twinockchef's Avatar
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Location: Savoy, Texas
Posts: 347
Are you just changing the rubber on the springs?
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Britton McIntyre

68 280 SE coupe 'Hairball'
70 280 SL
71 280 SEL - RIP May 2010
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  #5  
Old 04-17-2013, 11:42 AM
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Overhauling the rear suspension... new spring pads, thrust arm mounts and bushings, support arm rubber mounts and hardware, axle tube boots.
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  #6  
Old 04-17-2013, 06:16 PM
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Drop the axle and it's all easy to change. get the body up high on stands and then use a floor jack under the axle - or a trans jack if you usa a hoist. ratchet straps to the jack will keep it easier to balance.

The jack fixture is nice to have, but certainly none of these are needed to lower the axle to gain access to change the bushings.
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  #7  
Old 04-18-2013, 12:33 AM
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Location: Savoy, Texas
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Dropping the axle will be waste of time and effort and may actually make the job more difficult.
For the center axle mount replacement just use a jack to support the axle. It is then quite easy to replace the mount from inside the trunk.
Are you replacing the trust arm rubber which are at the axle or just the ones that connect to the chassis? Replaceing the rubber at the axle will require a press to install. Make sure to get new snap rings.
When you pull the springs measure the upper rubber thickness.
Wait!!!
First you should determine the camber of the rear wheels because the thickness of the upper spring rubber dictates the camber of the wheels.

Compensating spring rubber replacement:
While replacing the spring rubber disconnect the right side shock and let the right side axle drop down. This should release most of the tension from the spring. All you have to do is just unbolt right side spring holder, leave the bolt closest to the center in and let the holder rotate out and down. The spring will pop out but with just small amount of force. Nothing dangerous. To reinstall: replace the rubber and put the spring back in place.
Use a big long screw driver to force the spring holder up so that you can put the bolt back in and thighten both bolts. It may take a little bit of effort but it is doable. Now lift the axle up with a jack untill you can reconnect the shock. I have done this several times.

**NOTE** The advantage to having the axle still attached to the chassis is that it stabilizes and secures the axle. Which helps a lot when working on the compensation spring.

Do not forget to replace the cross-strut rubber.

The best way to reinstall the springs is to have the car up on a lift. Use one of those exhaust pipe stands to lower and raise the thrust arm. It is not necessary to use a spring compressor. The trust arm will slowly and safely compress the spring as you raise it up. The hardest part is aligning the arm to the chassis. I believe it is easier, quicker, and quite safe to do it without a spring compressor.
In January I replaced the front and rear rubber and springs on my 68 280 SE, by myself, without any problems.

If you have any questions let me know.
Good Luck
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Britton McIntyre

68 280 SE coupe 'Hairball'
70 280 SL
71 280 SEL - RIP May 2010
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  #8  
Old 04-18-2013, 11:51 AM
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I would tend to agree with the above statements. If you want to replace the bushings in the trailing arms then I would remove the whole axle. We made a jig to compress the rubber pieces so that the circlips would pop into place. You can't do this any other way.

I use a capenters square to set the axle up before I install it. Set the axle on a level place and use wood blocks or carboard to get eveything level. You can check this by placing a level on each axle tube and adjust until the whole unit is horizontal.
Adjust the locating pin that goes through the trunk floor until it is at 90 degrees and lock it into place. Failure to do this step will often result in a lot of rear tire wear. Then you can install the compensating spring which must be removed to do this job. Everything else is a matter of assembly.
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