Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help




Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum > Technical Information and Support > Vintage Mercedes

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #16  
Old 06-01-2013, 06:53 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Alexandria, Virginia
Posts: 5,398
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1975300D View Post
NO, my gripes are not major. But it all adds up to a lot of frustration. right now the car is not running. It hasn't been on the road in many years. So all of this is hoping that the car runs okay. And I know it won't because it most likely needs new injectors.

To add to my list, I just discovered that there is major rust perforation on the rear left floor pan and a small spot on the front right pan. My dad undercoated the car really well, but the rust attacked the floor pan from the top. Moisture got in under the rubberized coating and did its thing.

As far as my chevy, I have owned three large chevy vehicles in my life, and they were all virtually bullet proof. I beat on them, and beat on them, put no money into them, no maintenance, and they kept on going and going and going. I had one Chevy Astro van with almost 500,000 kms before I sold it. lol.

The Germans make advanced cars, but not cars that you can beat on. Kind of like the Tiger tank. Meanest tank of the war, except for when it was constantly breaking down in the field. My philosophy with cars is that if it ain't broken, don't bother with it. Which means I never bother with "scheduled maintenance". Expensive European cars don't tolerate that.

Anyway, thanks for the input so far, guys.
Sorry. My previous reply was based on your original post where you stated your Mercedes had no rust, the engine & tranny were good, and you liked the diesel sound.
Not a rusty example that hasn't run in years.

As for Chevy vans, a friend who's a diehard GM-fan, bought a 2002 Astro last year, with 160K miles, and he's had a ton of problems. Plus, in my experience, (especially compared to a W115 or W123 Mercedes diesel) Astros and Ventures are a real PITA to work on!

Happy Motoring, Mark
__________________
DrDKW
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 06-01-2013, 10:03 PM
1975300D's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Newmarket, Ontario
Posts: 273
The car is not rusty. The body panels have zero rust. The motor and tranny are good as far as I know. Fuel injectors are not the motor. And while the car has not been on the road in years, it starts right up.
__________________
1975 300D
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 06-02-2013, 12:02 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 4,948
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1975300D View Post
First the pros:

The car has no rust.
Making it truly a rare beast
__________________
With best regards

Al

Check out the W114, W115 enthusiast website.
http://www.stroke8.org

http://www.w108.org

Join the Mercedes W108 group
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/mercedesw108/

My 280SL restoration

http://www.w108.org/gallery/albums/a...0959.thumb.jpg
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 06-02-2013, 01:28 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: San Luis Obispo, CA
Posts: 1,438
This is a confusing thread:
Post 1) no rust
Post 14) major rust
Post 17) not rusty

Please sell the car to someone who does "scheduled maintenance" on their vehicles.
__________________
1968 220D, W115, /8, OM615, Automatic transmission.
1987 300TD, W124, OM603, Automatic transmission.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 06-02-2013, 01:36 AM
1975300D's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Newmarket, Ontario
Posts: 273
What is confusing? I said the car has no rust. Then I discovered rust on a floor pan. But the body still is rust free. You know the difference between a body and a floor pan, right?
__________________
1975 300D
Reply With Quote
  #21  
Old 06-02-2013, 09:03 AM
Tomguy's Avatar
Vintage Moderator
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Not where I want to
Posts: 5,036
Floor pan is part of the body. Maybe not a structural part of the unibody but still a part you left out that drastically affects the car's value.

Hidden floor pan rust won't be the only issue. You see, that rubberized coating is everywhere which is why the only REAL way to check for rust is with a screwdriver, poking at all areas to see if it goes through. The rubberized coating cracks, lets moisture in, and the unibody rusts sight unseen until the rubberized coating falls off to reveal holes. Ask us how we know!!

IMO the diesel Benzes are only worthwhile if they run well and are rust-free. They use more expensive fuel than a gasser and modern gassers with way more power will get better MPG, so only a few diehards would want a rusty example and they will not pay much for it. I'd suggest selling it. You MIGHT get $1000 if you're lucky and can get it to start and run around the block.
__________________
Current:
1999 Chrysler 300M (Click for pic) - 207,xxx - totalled by Nationwide for $1600 in damage. Being rebuilt better.
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited (Click for pic) - 32,xxx

My Mercedes Benz 108 109 resource site
August 2014 newsletter live.

Previous: 1972 280SE 4.5 "Quicksilver", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi"
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 06-02-2013, 02:26 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 4,948
The floor pan is structural to a unibody car and the body is weakened if there is rust on the floor. For full frame cars (like the crown victoria or pickup trucks). Rusty floor pans are not so critical.
__________________
With best regards

Al

Check out the W114, W115 enthusiast website.
http://www.stroke8.org

http://www.w108.org

Join the Mercedes W108 group
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/mercedesw108/

My 280SL restoration

http://www.w108.org/gallery/albums/a...0959.thumb.jpg
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 06-02-2013, 06:38 PM
whunter's Avatar
Moderator
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Metro Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 17,347
FYI

Quote:
Originally Posted by cooljjay View Post
Thanks!

Oh yes, I forgot your in Canada and the cold....plus salt....I have a friend in Michigan who wants me to come stay up there and I told him provide me with a heated garage and I will see :-)

Well the plus, is you can use the car as a generator in the winter and then it will be nice and warm....so no worries about cold starting
You come up here, and I will make a heated garage unnecessary.
Send me a message if you visit, so I can work on your car.

.
__________________
ASE Master Mechanic
asemastermechanic@juno.com

Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Prototype Vehicle build.
Prototype Fleet Durability
Prototype vehicle instrumentation.
Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1973 300D
1973 309D - stolen
1978 280SE
1980 240D
1983 300D
1984 190D
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 06-02-2013, 07:11 PM
whunter's Avatar
Moderator
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Metro Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 17,347
My Opinion

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1975300D View Post
Just want to get some feedback to help me decide if I keep my 1975 300D.

First the pros:

The car has no rust. The paint is almost perfect. The engine and tranny are good as far as I know. I like the old diesel sound.

Now the cons:

The door locks leak and that means a big vacuum job. I certainly will not be ripping apart the doors to fix the problem. The AC compressor does not work. Don't know why. It needs a new AC switch vacuum valve at the very least. It needs about $1200 in upholstery stuffing. The washer nozzles are plugged. The fuel sender is shot. It is missing the wood veneer that goes on the dash and the insert on the top of the dash vent.

I like this car as far as cars go. But I don't care to work on cars in my spare time. Nor do I want to spend money on old cars that can never be recouped.

So the question is, are these old cars places where money goes to die? Is a 40 year-old Mercedes a car for a guy with significant disposable income to throw at it? Is it just a hobby?

If I fix what it needs, is it likely to need other expensive repairs down the road?

As a point of comparison, (not that I intend to use an old Mercedes as a daily driver) I bought a used 2003 Chevy Venture four years ago for work with 65,000 kms on it. I have driven it for another 100,000 kms in the last four years and have put $0 in it. 100,000 kms for Zero dollars. Gas, oil, wiper blades and some bulbs.

Frankly, that's the kind of car I like the most. Compared to that, where does a 1975 300D fall on the kilometer per dollar continuum?

I like my dad's old Mercedes. But I don't like it enough to put up with problems, especially problems that cost money. That being the case, should it stay or should it go?

Thanks
Yes, these cars are a labor of love.

I drive across the country in all of my old Mercedes, with IMO fewer worries than a modern car.

Bringing it back to good driving condition after serious neglect takes patience, persistance, and some money.
Breakdown; yes it has happened several times, always basic hose, belt, tire.
I am agressive on maintenence, especially on a car new to me.

IMO: Nothing (except heavy commercial) manufactured today has the durability of the car you have.
When it is sorted out, they are wonderful.


.
__________________
ASE Master Mechanic
asemastermechanic@juno.com

Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Prototype Vehicle build.
Prototype Fleet Durability
Prototype vehicle instrumentation.
Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1973 300D
1973 309D - stolen
1978 280SE
1980 240D
1983 300D
1984 190D
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 06-02-2013, 07:24 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 3,740
Quote:
Originally Posted by whunter View Post
You come up here, and I will make a heated garage unnecessary.
Send me a message if you visit, so I can work on your car.

.
I can promise, one day I will be up there! I just have to work on getting some funds built up....I think everyone on this forum needs to make an appointment to come visit for a few months
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old 06-03-2013, 11:17 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: San Luis Obispo, CA
Posts: 1,438
Sorry!

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1975300D View Post
What is confusing? I said the car has no rust. Then I discovered rust on a floor pan. But the body still is rust free. You know the difference between a body and a floor pan, right?
Sorry to add to the confusion. I should have quoted you more completely.

Post 1: "The car has no rust"
Post 14: "I just discovered that there is major rust perforation on the rear left floor pan and a small spot on the front right pan"
Post 17: "The car is not rusty"

I found these statements to be somewhat contradictory and confusing, but perhaps my reading comprehension skills are a little rusty.
__________________
1968 220D, W115, /8, OM615, Automatic transmission.
1987 300TD, W124, OM603, Automatic transmission.
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old 06-03-2013, 11:32 PM
1975300D's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Newmarket, Ontario
Posts: 273
I found these statements to be somewhat contradictory and confusing, but perhaps my reading comprehension skills are a little rusty.

Again with this. Yes, I discovered rust perforation in one location in turns out on the floor pan where water collected. (the other location where my screwdriver went through was a rubber plug in turned out.)This I remedied by welding a small piece of new steel. I removed all the rubberized coating. Nothing else to report.

Now, just so that you don't remain confused, (which I know you're not, your just being snide.)

The doors have not one speck of rust. The hood, the trunk, the rocker panels, the fenders, the roof, not one speck of rust. The chrome has not one speck of rust. The gas tank, the inside of the trunk, even components underneath were covered in grease tape. No rust. This car is probably one of the best preserved, if not the best, 300Ds in Canada.

I think it is safe to say that this is not a rusty car.

Are you still confused? I never said I had a rusty car.
__________________
1975 300D
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old 06-03-2013, 11:43 PM
Adv_rider's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Mexico City
Posts: 213
Quote:
. As a point of comparison, (not that I intend to use an old Mercedes as a daily driver) I bought a used 2003 Chevy Venture four years ago for work with 65,000 kms on it. I have driven it for another 100,000 kms in the last four years and have put $0 in it. 100,000 kms for Zero dollars. Gas, oil, wiper blades and some bulbs.

Frankly, that's the kind of car I like the most. Compared to that, where does a 1975 300D fall on the kilometer per dollar continuum?

I like my dad's old Mercedes. But I don't like it enough to put up with problems, especially problems that cost money. That being the case, should it stay or should it go?
Sell the MB.
__________________
1972 W108 280SE 4.5
1977 W116 450SEL
2008 W211 E63 AMG
1981 E12 528i BMW
Reply With Quote
  #29  
Old 06-13-2013, 08:20 PM
katja's Avatar
High Maintenance
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 306
I wrote a similar thread a few years ago. When I spend money on my car, or when something goes wrong, I tend to feel negative about it. When I'm driving it, or admiring it in the garage, I feel very positive.

It is absolutely a labor of love. It makes very little economic sense to be driving one of these cars, particularly if you are NOT a DIY'er.

I bought mine because it was very cheap, and I fondly remembered my uncle's 220D and what a great car it was. I thought it'd be a great car to have as a project, and to learn about working on cars.

I soon discovered I really DON'T like wrenching; I like detailing and modifying, but not cursing over bolts I can't physically break loose or screwing something up because I didn't know how to install it properly.

I've done a lot of work myself, nonetheless, and I've also paid a few thousand in parts and labor. Still, it's a relatively cheap car to own and drive. It is NOT my daily driver, but it gets driven at least a few times a month, so I try to keep it operational at all times, in case my daily driver needs repairs. My 240D also needs the seats restuffed, the vacuum system fixed, the heater fan replaced, and a dozen other repairs, many of which I can't or won't attempt myself. And I have no one who wants to help me. But I know someday I'll get to them.

I set money aside for car maintenance fund in a separate savings account; it could be also used to save up for a new car, but I don't want a new car, nor do I want to get a car loan. When I have extra money, I work on some of those non-urgent repairs.

I consider that the brakes must always work, even if I'm not driving the car. A lot of other stuff can wait, and it does.

I love the looks of my W115, how it handles and how it sounds. I have a garage so if I happen to be broke, it'll have a nice place to stay until I have the money to fix it. I can't imagine getting rid of it and yes I DO love it and take care of it the best I am able to.

My theory is, if you have a place to store it, and have the money to license, insure, fuel and keep it in good enough condition to drive it at least every month for 50 miles, keep it as your 2nd car, and repair other things as you have time & money. Otherwise you might someday regret selling it. On the other hand, if you don't truly love it, by all means sell it to someone who will.
__________________
1976 240D "Katja"
Reply With Quote
  #30  
Old 06-16-2013, 05:30 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 326
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1975300D View Post
Again with this. Yes, I discovered rust perforation in one location in turns out on the floor pan where water collected. (the other location where my screwdriver went through was a rubber plug in turned out.)This I remedied by welding a small piece of new steel. I removed all the rubberized coating. Nothing else to report.

Now, just so that you don't remain confused, (which I know you're not, your just being snide.)

The doors have not one speck of rust. The hood, the trunk, the rocker panels, the fenders, the roof, not one speck of rust. The chrome has not one speck of rust. The gas tank, the inside of the trunk, even components underneath were covered in grease tape. No rust. This car is probably one of the best preserved, if not the best, 300Ds in Canada.

I think it is safe to say that this is not a rusty car.

Are you still confused? I never said I had a rusty car.
Im sorry, you are describing what pretty much anyone except a seller who is either dishonest or has a far inflated opinion of their cars value would call a rusty car. If the car has holes in the floor, it is a rusty car.

If you are worried about it costing too much money or you think that import cars are too hard to get parts for, I would suggest selling it as well.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:48 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2011 Pelican Parts - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page