Has anyone rehabilitated a worn/torn ponton heater box that is essentially still intact? A few tears and holes. I am aware of fiberglass aftermarket boxes, but I do not think mine is that far shot. I have been thinking of duct tape, black RTV silicone sealant, and rubberized body schutz. Any other ideas, especially ones based on successful experience? Many thanks.

From the 190SL Group Restoration Manual (find us at www.190slgroup.com):

Remove the heater box by removing the levers where the control cables attach, noting the positions. Take care with the levers as they are no longer available. Use duct tape inside and out to help out with the alignment as you reshape the box. Large holes should only be taped on the inside. Use a wood plug to hold the shape of the round end if it has deteriorated.

Wet the distorted areas with a sponge. This will allow you to modl the box back into shape without causing the cardboard to crack. If there is extensive damage, work a small area at a time. Alcohol can also be used if your box won't absorb the water.

Stuff the still wet box with newspaper to hold the sape. Allow to dry.

Cut patterns out of old rags for each side of the heater box, allowing 1 inch overlap on eahc side of the pattern. Cut fiberglass cloth to the patterns. Put cloth on plastic and mix and spread epoxy ove the the fiberglass cloth until saturated. Remove excess epoxy with applicator. Pick up plastic and cloth, and apply to heater box, smooth out bubbles and wrinkles by hand. Use weights to stretch the corners of the plastic out. You will then have to sand and fill any holes. Use bondo.

To finish it like the original, spray undercoat in a fine mist on the box. Sand until the high points are flattened - it should look like an eggcrate. Paint semi-gloss black.

Hope this helps!

Bill Streep
'57 190sl
'92 300E

PS: I bought the fiberglass replacement and used it...

Bill

Many thanks. From your discussion I conclude that my heater box is far less shot than the one described. There are no huge holes and the box is essentially intact as to shape and completeness. I am inclined to go with duct tape and perhaps some black RTV silicone smoothed out. (I even considered roof cement as it firms up but remains a bit flexible.) Then body schutz then paint. I think rehabbing it will be much less trouble than the replacement fiberglass with the need to drill/aling holes.

Saw your post on the veterans page. The holes weren't too much of a problem on the fiberglass - it took me a couple of hours to put it together. The real pain was that the replacement had been painted, and not prepped before painting. I had to remove all of the paint, prep, and repaint. I'd REALLY look at the fiberglass route. Mine was too far gone.

Bill

My heater box was in "reasonable" condition; just had some flaking of the paper board and one small rip. I soaked all of the paper with POR (paint over rust). It soaks into anything, dries very hard, remains flexible, and in impervious to everything. The stuff is expensive ($30 per pt) but is great for use during restoration. The only drawback is that once the can is opened, it will harden in the can in 30 days if not used.

Jim Villers
190SL, 230SL

I found a web address for POR http://www.por15.com/

Good stuff.

Jim Villers