What do you think it's worth? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

thorsen · #1 10-09-2013, 10:20 AM

I'm considering going to look at this car but I feel it's overpriced given the rust, AC, and seats. Am I off-base on the values of these cars or is that a realistic price?

1973 Mercedes Benz 280SEL 4.5

alabbasi · #2 10-09-2013, 10:53 AM

Miles are right, it runs and seems to have a great history. I think that you know rust pretty well so detailed pictures will give you a good idea. The seats leather looks OK, the pads are good and can be replaced separately. At $4000 it may be a better deal.

Rust free non runners are usually $2500-3000 in Texas.

Tomguy · #3 10-09-2013, 02:02 PM

Saw a rust-free 4.5 in LA-area on CL for $1500, it didn't stay running after fires (seller said fuel pump, sounds like something easier to me like the ballast resistor)... that was ~2-3 wks ago. Same color combo as well - blue/blue. I think it was a SE not SEL, but the L isn't worth that much more! I would value that car at $3k-3500 personally, because the interior is fairly worn. The rust doesn't look that bad on it... but you never know what's under the surface unfortunately.

WANT '71 280SEL · #4 10-09-2013, 02:19 PM

I'd say it's a $2,500-$3k car. There's always more rust than meets the eye.

Thanks,

David

ScooterABC · #5 10-09-2013, 04:24 PM

As a starting point I would ask for receipts for the following:

Many new parts installed and repairs made by me after I got it in 2000 include: Timevalve complete stainless-steel exhaust system, new fuel tank, automatic transmission pump and fluid lines to cooler along with miscellaneous transmission parts, new radiator, new power-steering pump and steering gearbox, miscellaneous front-suspension parts, new engine mounts, recent brakes, new Bilstein shocks, and Michelin tires.

Exactly what was done for the auto transmission, steering gearbox, pump, front suspension parts, etc? That could be some pretty expensive stuff.

vandor · #6 10-09-2013, 10:50 PM

I think the worst thing about it is the rust. On the pic of the muffler most of the body seams are rusty. If the rest of the underside is like that then this car has a bunch of rust! Maybe this is more acceptable in the rust belt, but down here it would reduce a car's value by a bunch. Also it seems like the heater levers are broken, so it will need at least those, plus likely many of the other w108 illnesses attended to.

alabbasi · #7 10-10-2013, 07:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vandor

I think the worst thing about it is the rust. On the pic of the muffler most of the body seams are rusty.

The spare wheel well and the well in the opposite location seem to be common rust areas for even hot climate cars like Dallas. I expect that this is caused by failing trunk seals which cause it to rust inside out. I'm not sure how bad that rust is. But as others have said, it's almost always worse then you think.

In any case, it does not sound like a $5k car.

thorsen · #8 10-10-2013, 08:15 AM

Thank you for the opinions. In my mind it seemed over-priced but I'm not going to knock the guy for trying to get what he wants for it.

Palolo · #9 10-10-2013, 11:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WANT '71 280SEL

I'd say it's a $2,500-$3k car.

Isn't that pretty much the $ for any halfway decent old car out there?

I see everything in a thirty year spread from 72 VW Bugs to 92 BMW 525s to 02 Audi A4s in that price range... Seems like it is the "common low price range" for almost anything that runs and needs a little cosmetic help.

Add a little more for "nice", add a little more again for "really really nice".

But yeah, I agree, $3K-ish range. (Figure on the same amount to re-do the body and paint to the quality that'll make it last another 40 years.)

MAKDUFF3 · #10 10-10-2013, 12:03 PM

The certainty about rust is that there is always more than you can see even under close inspection. Once the car is striped you will find more undoubtedly. I would take "cash in hand" that you are willing to spend on the car look it over very closely, ask additional questions, and lastly if you feel comfortable with the car and the owner make an offer that is low and see what is said, probably about half of what he is asking and go from there to your stopping point or less. Remember, you can't see everything and with older cars there will always be unexpected problems especially where rust is concerned. Just my .02 MikeD>

alabbasi · #11 10-10-2013, 12:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Palolo

Isn't that pretty much the $ for any halfway decent old car out there?

Yep, there are lots of cars that fit in that price range from Junkers to Gems. Personally, I kind of like this car. It's had a long ownership history and lots of documented recent work.

What I usually see in the $2500 range are cars that have been through succession of flippers, each of which do little or nothing to the car before selling it on.

Those usually need lots of sorting out.

twinockchef · #12 10-10-2013, 06:28 PM

From my perspective it is extremly difficult for any of us to determine the extent of the rust. Without close up photos we can only guess. But it does look good and if all of the repairs are correctly represented they add a good amount of value. All of which cost a good amount of money.
The question that should be ask is what do you plan to do with the car? Will it be a daily driver, a weekend cruiser and are you willing to put some hard work into it.
If the rust damage is minor and/or superficial $3000 to $4000 would be a good price. I would look at every inch of the undercarriage because it looks to be a Chicago car and Chicago winters are brutal. If there is extensive rust damage walk away.

Tomguy · #13 10-10-2013, 08:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alabbasi

Yep, there are lots of cars that fit in that price range from Junkers to Gems. Personally, I kind of like this car. It's had a long ownership history and lots of documented recent work.

What I usually see in the $2500 range are cars that have been through succession of flippers, each of which do little or nothing to the car before selling it on.

Those usually need lots of sorting out.

This is what I based my valuation on. I am taking the seller's word on the work done and I would assume there are receipts (or you can look @ the exhaust to see if it's stainless fairly easily. If it looks old, but has no rust, well there ya go).

Also consider this car apparently sat for a while. Cars with bad rust, while sitting, get rustier. Even if garaged! The fact that this car hasn't developed rust craters would leave me to believe the rust isn't that bad. The seller doesn't look like he's trying to hide the rust there which would give him kudos in my book.