Option code 275 doesn't show up in group 91 which is front seats for a 114.023. I'll look in the blue manuals...

Ug. The vacuum diagrams are in section 80 of the service manual, which is in volume 2 if you have the later version that has 2 volumes. I only have volume 1 of the service manual. I have earlier 114 service manuals (2 of them) but they are too early to have section 80 for vacuum...

Also seats are in section 91 which is again in Volume 2.

So I'm no help on either a vacuum diagram or comments on the lower seats...

My best guess is that it is an option that always / only occurs in cars with a sunroof.

More work being done...

Paint touch up - There are a few spots on the car that need paint touch up, I wanted to keep as much of the original paint as possible so what Copper is doing is preparing the surface, then adding layers of paint, then sanding and polishing.

And example as I got the car ......





Sanded and preped .....




After 1st layer of paint, this will still get more layers of paint, then sanded and polished.......

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1971 250C Ivory / Cognac Leather ~ 1993 500E - 040 / 271 - Porsche Type 2758

Past Cars - 1994 E500 - 2003 CL600 V12TT by SPEEDRIVEN - 1994 E500 - 1995 E320 Cab - 1988 BMW M6 - 1994 E320 Cab

Thx for the info, it would be great to have the diagrams that you don't have tho.

.

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1971 250C Ivory / Cognac Leather ~ 1993 500E - 040 / 271 - Porsche Type 2758

Past Cars - 1994 E500 - 2003 CL600 V12TT by SPEEDRIVEN - 1994 E500 - 1995 E320 Cab - 1988 BMW M6 - 1994 E320 Cab

Yeah, I know. I suspect you can use the diagrams I posted as a starting point. Hopefully the color-coding is consistent, or at least there is color coding.

Do you own a MityVac? If not, you will need one if you want to sort out the vacuum stuff. Great tool for not much money. I would start at seeing what vacuum lines come through the firewall, near the brake booster probably, and try to find them on the inside of the car. I would also take off the driver door panel verify that there is a strange vacuum switch that is controlled by the door lock push button. Driver's door lock controls all of the locks. Passenger door lock does nothing except override the vacuum stuff for that instance in time. Next time driver door lock moves it will sync the passenger and other locks.

The line coming into the vacuum switch in the door lock - make sure it has vacuum for starters. You will need to have your car running because it can be assumed that your vacuum storage tanks are flat from the leaks. If you can disconnect the vacuum supply from the vacuum lock switch, check it for vacuum with the car running, then without releasing the vacuum turn off the car and see if it holds vacuum. That will tell you if you have a sound source of vacuum for the door lock system. If turning off the car makes the vacuum go away (or if you don't have vacuum there when car is running) then you have a vacuum leak up-stream (engine bay) that is preventing things from working. It's an easy test and a good starting point. This switch itself is a common failure point on W123 cars, it might be on W114 cars as well.

I recommend you read the tutorials on vacuum systems for a W123 on Diesel Giant's website. Google it and you will find it. Diesel Giant will also try to sell you a bunch of stuff (a big kit) that you probably don't need. But the tutorial and information there is excellent, although the example used is W123.

On Diesel Giant, this switch is referred to as the "Vacuum Master Switch". The purpose of the switch is very simple (and it is mechanical). The input is vacuum from the engine/vacuum tank. The switch channels the vacuum to EITHER the "Lock" vacuum circuit or the "Unlock" vacuum circuit. Based on the position of the door lock button. (Driver's door does NOT have a vacuum actuator, it's just mechanical) So this master switch sends vacuum to either all of the "Lock" items or all of the "Unlock" items.

It is completely possible, actually probable, that you have separate "Lock" leaks in the circuit from the "Unlock" leaks.

The bit of trivia that doesn't matter to you is that Diesel cars use vacuum to shut off the fuel flow to the injection pump. Since there is no electrical component to the diesel engine running and no electric fuel pump, if you have a vacuum problem in a Mercedes diesel from this era the result is you can't shut off the engine (unless you open the hood and press the "STOP" lever which is there for exactly this purpose). The amusing part is that since the vacuum leak can be in only the "Lock" or "Unlock" circuit, you get into the situation where you are able to shut off your engine only if your doors are locked or only if your doors are unlocked depending on which circuit doesn't leak. I know, TMI, but it's fun stuff.

This car is VERY solid very where, it did have a a bit of surface rust but only in the trunk, so that is being addressed also......


After a good sweep out





After some wire brushing, sanding and removed much of the seam sealer that was peeling away





Trunk area primed with Zero rust encapsulator. Seam sealer goes on next, then satin black paint.






Seam sealer brushed on as Mercedes did, next satin black paint.

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1971 250C Ivory / Cognac Leather ~ 1993 500E - 040 / 271 - Porsche Type 2758

Past Cars - 1994 E500 - 2003 CL600 V12TT by SPEEDRIVEN - 1994 E500 - 1995 E320 Cab - 1988 BMW M6 - 1994 E320 Cab

Great info thx for posting.

Man I can see why this vacuum stuff can drive a person mad. I will need to look into it all more when I get the car back.

Thx again !!!

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1971 250C Ivory / Cognac Leather ~ 1993 500E - 040 / 271 - Porsche Type 2758

Past Cars - 1994 E500 - 2003 CL600 V12TT by SPEEDRIVEN - 1994 E500 - 1995 E320 Cab - 1988 BMW M6 - 1994 E320 Cab

You are quite welcome. Actually, if you read a little on-line (Diesel Giant is good for this) the vacuum system is incredibly simple and extremely logical. It's common sense, just not stuff we are used to knowing. I would count fixing the vacuum stuff on my 85 wagon as one of the easier and MOST satisfying parts of fixing up the car. You get a lot of bang for the buck once you understand how it works. It's super easy. Particularly if the lines and junctions are accessible under the floor mats, which they probably are. On a coupe my assumption would be that the vacuum would go to the door switch and from there across the floor right under the front of the seat and over the hump and then up Y to the passenger door left and to the gas lock and trunk lock right. Should be two lines going down each path, one for the lock circuit and one for the unlock.

If you figure out the locks first, the seats will be a little more difficult. So I would do the locks first as a learning exercise. The seats have more places to leak and peaky door light switches with built-in vacuum switch that is probably prone to breakage.

Hopefully the seats and locks are on independent (check valve) protected vacuum sources.

I forgot to mention, the work you are doing on your car looks fantastic. Damn those pesky moisture-trapping rubber floor mats! FWIW, I briefly owned (3 days) a 280 SEL 4.5 last week where the previous owner had glued the rubber mat in place. Oddly enough there was no rust under it when I pulled it out. Who knows, maybe glue is our friend.

Roof Rails coming lose so that's getting repaired also -

Got the old broken rivets drilled out of the rails. Rust spot at back of PS rail will get Zero Rust before the rail is re attached.







MBZ used a small rubber O ring or gasket on the rivets between roof and bottom of the rail, will duplicate with metric O rings on the new rivets.

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1971 250C Ivory / Cognac Leather ~ 1993 500E - 040 / 271 - Porsche Type 2758

Past Cars - 1994 E500 - 2003 CL600 V12TT by SPEEDRIVEN - 1994 E500 - 1995 E320 Cab - 1988 BMW M6 - 1994 E320 Cab

Engine bay before .....







Engine bay after ..... I think I will end up painting the radiator and maybe get some new OEM stickers if they are still available.

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1971 250C Ivory / Cognac Leather ~ 1993 500E - 040 / 271 - Porsche Type 2758

Past Cars - 1994 E500 - 2003 CL600 V12TT by SPEEDRIVEN - 1994 E500 - 1995 E320 Cab - 1988 BMW M6 - 1994 E320 Cab

That is a beautiful car, so glad to see it getting spruced up.

Great job
My car is 1971 250c with ivory original paint and ivory seats

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Looks nice I like the euro lights.

Do you have any photos of the ivory seats, are they leather ?

.

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1971 250C Ivory / Cognac Leather ~ 1993 500E - 040 / 271 - Porsche Type 2758

Past Cars - 1994 E500 - 2003 CL600 V12TT by SPEEDRIVEN - 1994 E500 - 1995 E320 Cab - 1988 BMW M6 - 1994 E320 Cab

Here is a pic
No they are not leather, they are mbtex which I like better than leather, they age better in my opinion

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Very nice, looks great with the black carpet.

I agree mbtex is amazing, but if leather is cared for right I prefer it.

Thankfully my leather is near perfect and to keep it that way its been feed 3 times this last week with Griots Garage leather care products.

.

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1971 250C Ivory / Cognac Leather ~ 1993 500E - 040 / 271 - Porsche Type 2758

Past Cars - 1994 E500 - 2003 CL600 V12TT by SPEEDRIVEN - 1994 E500 - 1995 E320 Cab - 1988 BMW M6 - 1994 E320 Cab