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  #1  
Old 01-23-2014, 04:38 AM
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No power to the fuel pump M116 350....HEEEELLLPP?

Ready to fire up and now have no power to the fuel pump. Can someone PLEASE help with pointing me in the right direction as to what I should be seeing? Also, unfortunately the round plug on the back of the instrument cluster has parted ways with it's connector and I cannot find anything on the wiring diagram to help me identify on what pins these plugs connect. Could both problems be related?
ANY help would be most appreciated.
TIA.
Dave.

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No power to the fuel pump M116 350....HEEEELLLPP?-small100_2591.jpg   No power to the fuel pump M116 350....HEEEELLLPP?-small100_2592.jpg   No power to the fuel pump M116 350....HEEEELLLPP?-small100_2593.jpg  
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  #2  
Old 01-23-2014, 07:39 PM
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I have parts cars. What modle and year is yours?
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  #3  
Old 01-24-2014, 08:20 AM
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for the moment, just don't let the wires short in that bundle.

For the fuel pump, in an EFI car (73-75), the relays are in the kick panel on the right side of the passenger compartment. (In the US, that would be the panel the passenger kicks with his right foot). Not that I remember which relay off the top of my head.

-CTH
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Old 01-24-2014, 01:13 PM
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Also, the D-Jet system on the 108/109 cars is powered by a smaller, separate wire on the battery positive (+) terminal that must be connected. If the w116 is the same, ensure this wire is properly connected and not corroded or broken off.
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  #5  
Old 01-24-2014, 08:54 PM
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Thanks guys,
Found the black wire and connected it. Still no noises form the fuel pump when ignition is on. One of the relays shown activates for a few seconds then deactivates.
Does all this look right?
Attached Thumbnails
No power to the fuel pump M116 350....HEEEELLLPP?-small100_2648.jpg   No power to the fuel pump M116 350....HEEEELLLPP?-small100_2649.jpg   No power to the fuel pump M116 350....HEEEELLLPP?-small100_2650.jpg   No power to the fuel pump M116 350....HEEEELLLPP?-small100_2651.jpg   No power to the fuel pump M116 350....HEEEELLLPP?-small100_2652.jpg  

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Old 01-27-2014, 05:15 AM
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Due to some great people on various forums I am happy to report that there has been some progress. The power to the fuel pump has been resolved as I did not have the single black wire connected to the positive terminal of the battery. The instrument plug is also sorted as I was sent the pin connector diagram. So.....Fired the engine up.....but only running on 4 cylinders AND as soon as i release the key engine stops. Now I have dismantled the trigger point plug and there has been a screw up with pins as well as one pin not being connected at all. I am hoping after we rectify this tomorrow that may solve the missing cylinder issues. I can get the engine idling on 4 by bypassing the ballast resistors. Can anybody suggest what may be causing this problem.
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Old 01-27-2014, 12:29 PM
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Injector ground, trigger points dirty, or trigger point plug dirty / broken wires. Most common causes!

Also: if you only run until the key is let go one of the ballast resistors is dead. IIRC, it's the 0.6 ohm one that is bypassed during cranking but I could be wrong. You would want to run a search on the forums.
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  #8  
Old 01-30-2014, 04:35 AM
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Well with the forums help we have mostly sorted the engine problems out. Correct ballast resistors now installed and the car starts immediately and I can let go of the key without it stopping. However........we now have this intermittent miss, mostly at idle. We have had it running like a top and then it will cough a little and start to miss on one or two cylinders. The fact that it is intermittent suggest to me there may be some dirty contacts somewhere. We have gone through all the trigger point areas ( points, wires plug etc.) we have also cleaned the plug for the injection control computer (24 pin) and thought we had it solved, but unfortunately the next time we started up the same problem arose.
Any suggestions on what we may be missing?
Cheers.
Dave.
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No power to the fuel pump M116 350....HEEEELLLPP?-smallimg_0558.jpg   No power to the fuel pump M116 350....HEEEELLLPP?-smallimg_0560.jpg  

Last edited by mercar; 01-30-2014 at 06:59 AM.
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  #9  
Old 01-30-2014, 09:37 AM
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Pull all the plugs. Make sure they are not fouling and make sure that you don't have one or two outliers that either look too rich or too lean which may indicate a bad injector (leaking or stuck closed). If they all look to be off you may have vacuum leaks or other issues that'd need addressing. That SL looks stunningly nice in that color!
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  #10  
Old 01-30-2014, 05:57 PM
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WIll go back and check everything again. BTW the car is or was a 280se 4 door. Work in progress
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  #11  
Old 01-30-2014, 11:18 PM
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Update on what we have done so far:
New timing chain, rails and tensioner
New plugs, leads and distributor cap
New ballast resistors 0.6ohm and 0.4ohm
Repaired all soldered joints from the trigger points to both plugs. The points themselves look to be in good condition with no pitting or corrosion evident.
New points.
Coil is original, just encased in a chrome sleeve. I swapped it out this morning with another blue/brown top and the engine would not start.
Cleaned all contacts (24) pin in the injection control computer.
We had the car running and idling beautifully yesterday afternoon. Turned the key again this morning and it is running like crap again!!!!
WHERE NEXT!!!!
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  #12  
Old 02-07-2014, 04:41 AM
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It's ALIVE!!!!!!!!

It's ALIVE!!!!!!!!
Many thanks to all on the forum who have contributed to me attaining this milestone in the project. The m116 350 engine, transmission and drivetrain is now in and after many hours of troubleshooting ignition and fuel problems all is well! The engine now purrs and responds instantly and the transmission is a joy, there is absolutely NO smoke at all from the engine. I have learn't so much and am very grateful for the assistance from you guys.
Thank you........ now onto the interior and then the air bags.







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  #13  
Old 02-07-2014, 10:52 AM
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Looks like that is going to be a great looking car!

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